tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-61786378171342125542024-03-11T17:55:52.546+00:00RC-SOAR - the BlogMike Shellim on slope soaring and R/C systemsUnknownnoreply@blogger.comBlogger122125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6178637817134212554.post-85080568942112958342023-12-15T19:15:00.032+00:002024-02-22T09:19:45.690+00:00Time for a refresh: Mike's OpenTX/EdgeTX Clinic<p>There comes a time where you have to dump the old, and embrace the new - something I've had to deal with in relation to my OpenTX Clinic website. </p><p>For a bit of background, I started the site 10 years ago, soon after OpenTX was launched. Since then the site has expanded with articles, sailplane templates, Lua scripts, tips and code snippets. </p><p>However things move on. The design of the website was looking dated. Meanwhile OpenTX is being superceded by EdgeTX. Plus, people are increasingly using mobiles to access content.<span></span></p><a name='more'></a><p></p><p style="text-align: left;">So I've finally bitten the bullet and rebuilt the site. It's now called <i>Mike's OpenTX/EdgeTX Clinic</i>. It's no longer a static site (the new version uses PHP), and it's more mobile friendly than the old version.</p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhyLXjJxfT-TC7h2tEn8hI3KdvwRwbmApCQDYPoZ2b0K9oP-NODJV4aVdTJ3yK3w7-rzxJC-xVLeoctEby9e6XX6RMaurJlYWXLniFgndqcdxM3aSB4ARm1OcTwyPZsAa4NxRAj4JDQvb30L4u3Rwvao-bMA6bqmqkICFw8E09v9Kg7_O6lap83cghdmqRU" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Screenshot of OpenTX/EdgeTX Clinic" data-original-height="648" data-original-width="1001" height="259" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhyLXjJxfT-TC7h2tEn8hI3KdvwRwbmApCQDYPoZ2b0K9oP-NODJV4aVdTJ3yK3w7-rzxJC-xVLeoctEby9e6XX6RMaurJlYWXLniFgndqcdxM3aSB4ARm1OcTwyPZsAa4NxRAj4JDQvb30L4u3Rwvao-bMA6bqmqkICFw8E09v9Kg7_O6lap83cghdmqRU=w400-h259" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Screenshot of new site</td></tr></tbody></table><br />I've also reworked some of the articles, and ‘edgetx’ is now part of the URL. <div><br /></div><div>Do have a look - it's here: <a href="https://rc-soar.com/edgetx">https://rc-soar.com/edgetx</a>.</div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6178637817134212554.post-81914239088438784882023-08-08T18:41:00.138+01:002024-02-04T12:21:06.236+00:00An introduction to ELRS - including the Channel 5 conundrum!<p style="text-align: left;">
If you haven’t heard of ELRS, then you soon will - it’s an interesting long-range protocol which is finally coming of age. </p><p style="text-align: left;">ELRS was originally designed for use with flight controllers. However, thanks to receivers like the RadioMaster ER series, ELRS is now a great option for line-of-sight flying - including F5X and F3X sailplanes. </p><p style="text-align: left;">So what exactly is ELRS, and what do you need to get
started? Read on, while I take you on a tour! <span></span></p><a name='more'></a><p></p>
<p></p>
<h2 style="text-align: left;">What is ELRS?</h2>
<p>
ELRS stands for 'Express Long Range System'. It's a combination of hardware,
software and RF protocols based on <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LoRa">LoRa</a> technology. The firmware is open source.
</p>
<p>
Compared with ACCST and similar protocols, ELRS offers considerably
greater range. </p><p></p><p style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: medium; font-style: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: left; text-decoration-color: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-thickness: initial; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;"></p><p style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: medium; font-style: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: left; text-decoration-color: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-thickness: initial; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;"></p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; font-family: "Times New Roman"; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; orphans: 2; text-decoration-color: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-thickness: initial; text-transform: none; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEg6Hpf-UUWzdRXrGURplpIa02BQstDQZrMGKloSmX5QUaPXGLO33qfJVa-OSQtEiPIFFae_PROQOxUZTEw1DyHVVLNpWY6Mls1uvfcJI46xXPTvsfQlZKR6JF9UB8m7MA6qmtJTvX5sQZHBw820khpikbn5IIw_Xr5yyeacecDKf696jyn2DNHA6E75dUxw" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Ranger ELRS module, Pocket tx and ER8GV rx" data-original-height="2064" data-original-width="3743" height="220" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEg6Hpf-UUWzdRXrGURplpIa02BQstDQZrMGKloSmX5QUaPXGLO33qfJVa-OSQtEiPIFFae_PROQOxUZTEw1DyHVVLNpWY6Mls1uvfcJI46xXPTvsfQlZKR6JF9UB8m7MA6qmtJTvX5sQZHBw820khpikbn5IIw_Xr5yyeacecDKf696jyn2DNHA6E75dUxw=w400-h220" style="cursor: move;" title="Ranger ELRS module, Pocket tx and ER8V rx" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">ELRS devices (clockwise from left):<br />RadioMaster Ranger module, Pocket tx and ER8GV rx</td></tr></tbody></table>
<p>ELRS devices can be configured using a web browser using WiFi. No physical access is needed - even when binding. This is great if your
receiver is buried away in the fuselage. Even better, you can switch to your backup transmitter without rebinding - perfect for competition flyers.
</p>
<h3 style="text-align: left;">What you will need</h3>
<div><p style="text-align: left;">To get going with ELRS, you'll need:</p></div>
<p></p>
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li>a transmitter with a recent version of OpenTX or EdgeTX</li>
<li>
an ELRS 2.4 GHz RF module for the transmitter. The module may be built-in,
or external.
</li>
<li>an ELRS receiver</li>
</ul>
<p>
Modules and receivers are available from several manufacturers including
RadioMaster, Matek and HappyModel. You can generally mix and match devices
from different manufacturers.
</p>
<h2>Configuration tools</h2>
<p>
Unlike traditional radios, ELRS devices require some configuration. Yes, I know it sounds like a chore... but it's not
difficult once you get up to speed with a few tools. These are:</p><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><i>The
ELRSv3 Lua script</i></li><li><i>WebUI </i></li><li><i>ELRS configurator</i></li></ul><p></p><p>Let's look at each in
turn:</p>
<h3>ELRSv3 Lua script</h3>
<p>
The ELRSv3 Lua script is the traditional method of configuring ELRS devices. (By 'device' I mean an RF module or receiver.)</p><p>The script runs from the TOOLS menu of the transmitter.
</p>
<p></p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhHM2o9aCZcOsiyoftGIkmctYPMfh811RWoOSASJuVLHETkdVXa7dlMmCd7XTXYslM_oF4F8xhLSqZJdUpGus3ylIQ_-E7IyJd2coPeL7TEW-dXm85p6UT7q2H-TKem_TwvpuyzU4LCM2y8LzvRROq-IUafD6bAy1C_Bdiz9_ls25Phsyv1KBkbS-oKizzP" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="System menu showing script options" data-original-height="2653" data-original-width="4265" height="199" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhHM2o9aCZcOsiyoftGIkmctYPMfh811RWoOSASJuVLHETkdVXa7dlMmCd7XTXYslM_oF4F8xhLSqZJdUpGus3ylIQ_-E7IyJd2coPeL7TEW-dXm85p6UT7q2H-TKem_TwvpuyzU4LCM2y8LzvRROq-IUafD6bAy1C_Bdiz9_ls25Phsyv1KBkbS-oKizzP=w320-h199" title="ELRS script listed in the TOOLS menu" width="320" /></a>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">EdgeTX tools menu</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p style="text-align: left;">The script is used for the following tasks:</p>
<p></p>
<ul>
<li>
Configuration of the tx module (packet rate, RF power, switch mode, etc.)
</li>
<li>Placing the tx module in WiFi mode</li>
<li>Configuration of receivers (initial packet rate etc.)</li>
<li>Placing a receiver in WiFi mode</li>
</ul>
<p style="text-align: left;">
Configuration of a receiver may be done 'over the air'. The rx doesn't need
to be bound beforehand (binding is a separate operation, best done using the WebUI, see below).
</p>
<p style="text-align: left;"></p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiurHOQ0SNwJWbOr2J2ObFBtFeXlyyZGiKFI5uuxltmfZKP0mJBFLgZNALv4gpjFF9nZ8oTPqetiI5n95yJfwO1-qE4-MPMOkh-DwZMX_aMHvTZR1tlGdUWadZxS372Qh7d9IhCgk0dyC1TLk01gfx4WOcyqf0X4hoBwwt6qLg0O5vGFAwChNAADtZlu-rz" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Receiver being configured OTA" data-original-height="1934" data-original-width="3119" height="198" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiurHOQ0SNwJWbOr2J2ObFBtFeXlyyZGiKFI5uuxltmfZKP0mJBFLgZNALv4gpjFF9nZ8oTPqetiI5n95yJfwO1-qE4-MPMOkh-DwZMX_aMHvTZR1tlGdUWadZxS372Qh7d9IhCgk0dyC1TLk01gfx4WOcyqf0X4hoBwwt6qLg0O5vGFAwChNAADtZlu-rz=w320-h198" title="ELRSv3 script configuring RadioMaster ER8GV receiver" width="320" /></a>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">
Remote configuration of ER8GV receiver
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p></p>
<h4>How to obtain the script</h4>
<p>
The ELRSv3 script is available from the ELRS website. For more info see <a href="https://www.expresslrs.org/quick-start/transmitters/lua-howto/">ELRS page</a>.</p>
<h3>WebUI </h3>
<p>
A more modern way of configuring an ELRS device is via its
<i>WebUI. </i>This is an on-board web page which is accessible using any internet browser via WiFi.</p><p>The key benefit is that you can use a keyboard to enter alphanumeric data such
as passphrases. Also, since the WebUI is part of the device firmware, there's no additional software to install or keep up to date.</p>
<p></p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiX9RtweFNi0hN9k3VvsYKPG6M_N4qz1YBIAp3Jzup7QulR2A6sCjFo1mCWv5W35gpduowDaOL9ZDDj9yhUtg48z5FWQUzh7uLFKzlao2_4TziXDCm5r0rjGTMI8ql23CdgllOBDZooibawjNbwrQ0gi-hkSm1E4SmTx5qssjt6Mas4J_DRm5zY98we6vln" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Screenshot of WebUI" data-original-height="859" data-original-width="798" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiX9RtweFNi0hN9k3VvsYKPG6M_N4qz1YBIAp3Jzup7QulR2A6sCjFo1mCWv5W35gpduowDaOL9ZDDj9yhUtg48z5FWQUzh7uLFKzlao2_4TziXDCm5r0rjGTMI8ql23CdgllOBDZooibawjNbwrQ0gi-hkSm1E4SmTx5qssjt6Mas4J_DRm5zY98we6vln=w372-h400" title="WebUI screenshot" width="372" /></a>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">
ELRS device being configured via its WebUI
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p></p>
<p></p>
<h4>Enabling WiFi mode</h4>
<p>
To access a device's WebUI, you first put it WiFi mode. You can do
this from the ELRSv3 script, via 'WiFi Connectivity' menu:</p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhRJfIqYxaCyujdrhj_G2OMR6CCcGKnomLxv17NrTcRtB5TFE1I9UmX5UBuoWewXox9WqTq0qiRCEige0G7PebL2qxGHtCgzMwp5Oe6zqETn22HrhnD2P792ZGB9WAWmODANthJCEGBC5qiO1S2pc0mF3OMc9rxicYI-PlCH3JU2PXHwc16QzJHOWdFEBZo" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img alt="" data-original-height="1912" data-original-width="3143" height="195" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhRJfIqYxaCyujdrhj_G2OMR6CCcGKnomLxv17NrTcRtB5TFE1I9UmX5UBuoWewXox9WqTq0qiRCEige0G7PebL2qxGHtCgzMwp5Oe6zqETn22HrhnD2P792ZGB9WAWmODANthJCEGBC5qiO1S2pc0mF3OMc9rxicYI-PlCH3JU2PXHwc16QzJHOWdFEBZo" width="320" /></a>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">
ELRSv3 script: WiFi configuration menu
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div>
<p></p>
<p></p>
<p style="text-align: left;">
For receivers you can use an alternative method, which is simply to power up
the receiver on its own. After 60 seconds without a connection, the receiver
will time out and drop into WiFi mode.
</p>
<div>
<h4>Accessing WebUI in AP mode</h4>
<p style="text-align: left;">
Once in WiFi mode, the device acts as a WiFi access point (AP) with network
name 'EXPRESSLRS_TX' or 'EXPRESSLRS_RX'. The device also starts up its
on-board web server.
</p>
<p>
To access the WebUI from your mobile or computer, you must first switch from your home network to the device's network. Your internet browser should then fire up automatically and display the
WebUI.
</p>
<h4>Accessing WebUI via your home WiFi</h4>
<p>
Instead of creating an access point, an ELRS device can be configured to use
your <i>home</i> WiFi network. This removes the need for you to
switch networks.
</p>
<p>
To configure a device to use your home network, first connect to it in AP
mode and open the WeUI in the normal way. Next, go the WiFi tab and enter
the your home network details (network name and pass code). You can then
access the WebUI from any computer/mobile on that network.
</p>
<p>
Of course, you must be within range of your home WiFi, so this won't work on
the field. (Unless your field is your back garden...)
</p>
<p>
For more info about WebUI, see <a href="https://www.expresslrs.org/quick-start/webui/">ELRS page</a>.
</p>
<h3>ELRS Configurator</h3>
<p>
The third and final tool is the ELRS Configurator. The name is slightly
misleading. The ELRS Configurator is used to (a) remotely build and download the ELRS firmware
and (b) update a device with new firmware, via WiFi.
</p>
<p>
I have not had to use the configurator yet, so I won't discuss this further
for now.
</p>
<p>
For more info, see <a href="https://www.expresslrs.org/quick-start/installing-configurator/">ELRS page</a>.
</p>
<div><br /></div>
<div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgZovbnG7OkP-Y-qC75apNRNsjzUJYBn8vo1cfYpVIlcijyaaZZkQv2WEJ32_kftztOLe8v_BE-BVZj-VqB9TGf31gX1h-xK7uAIqyHw8Drt5uBLtRYsoFcv5oXu7XRbc-ju-3z1I60J4F2O6Li4QaMpccjs1borVQ6IyzBUeYRBx1RdT7cKHFyMPR60qj3" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Screenshot of ELRS configurator" data-original-height="936" data-original-width="1407" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgZovbnG7OkP-Y-qC75apNRNsjzUJYBn8vo1cfYpVIlcijyaaZZkQv2WEJ32_kftztOLe8v_BE-BVZj-VqB9TGf31gX1h-xK7uAIqyHw8Drt5uBLtRYsoFcv5oXu7XRbc-ju-3z1I60J4F2O6Li4QaMpccjs1borVQ6IyzBUeYRBx1RdT7cKHFyMPR60qj3=w400-h266" title="ELRS configurator" width="400" /></a>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">
ELRS Configurator
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<br />
</div>
<h2>ELRS concepts and terminology</h2>
<p>
In this section, we'll look some of the key skills for configuring your ELRS
devices.
</p>
<h3>Binding </h3>
<h2>
<p style="font-size: medium; font-weight: 400;">
The recommended method of binding is via a passphrase. Think up a unique
passphrase, and make a note of it. Then, using WebUI, enter the same
passphrase in each of your ELRS devices (tx modules and rx's). Any of your receivers will now bind automatically on startup to any one of your transmitters. See also Model Match below.</p>
<p style="font-size: medium; font-weight: 400;">
The great thing is that you don't need physical access to the receiver. </p>
</h2>
<h3>Packet rate</h3>
<p>
Packet rate is the number of data packets transmitted per second.
It's configured in the transmitter module.
</p>
<p></p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEg2sWuGyJ16qXGA-YL234XHnpuRljfKfjjUzUPIC_6JVsRVA3HXswczUseKzXM-EIpBLKx0vQj_9pbpBYpbIoP_9wYUV9uokUyCjZ11-OF43AdQclbiED52k_IbBS6nYbiGKU8h9IAsd_z6FZ81fqQjIQeZ6s36Hkw5GraOmSJngzJmi6uVjxgFQ-JCKG46" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Packet rate option in ELRSv3 menu" data-original-height="2576" data-original-width="4155" height="198" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEg2sWuGyJ16qXGA-YL234XHnpuRljfKfjjUzUPIC_6JVsRVA3HXswczUseKzXM-EIpBLKx0vQj_9pbpBYpbIoP_9wYUV9uokUyCjZ11-OF43AdQclbiED52k_IbBS6nYbiGKU8h9IAsd_z6FZ81fqQjIQeZ6s36Hkw5GraOmSJngzJmi6uVjxgFQ-JCKG46=w320-h198" title="Setting the packet rate" width="320" /></a>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">
Setting the packet rate
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div>
<p style="text-align: left;">
There are various options for packet rate, each with its own tradeoff
between latency and range. 100Hz is recommended by the developers for sailplane use.</p>
</div>
<div>
<p></p>
<h3>Switch mode</h3>
<p>
The <i>switch mode</i> determines how many channels are transmitted, and the
resolution of each channel. Like packet rate, this is set in the
transmitter module using the ELRSv3 script.
</p>
<p>
The switch modes are described on <a href="https://www.expresslrs.org/software/switch-config/">this page</a>. For glider use, <i>Full Res 8Ch</i> is the one recommended by the devs for line-of-sight use.
</p>
<p></p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEi9_Wy5wD5jnXSTGrIeMJuUOZOD1ly3wl4AMVKNORoHcC6zQ-1AICqDjsv0NtCrV-TVH--M7T8Z8H9ui0Lp6avLbR7wACSi6__DjH3OktvCP8UBZ4CQLzB-GFUzdLvvDJ35x_zOQawfRQP1vRV1-gF6kPIPRUtGisJJXRpGkdc93bPYrbAGbbjqK83jxv4m" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Switch mode option in ELRSv3 script" data-original-height="2576" data-original-width="4155" height="198" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEi9_Wy5wD5jnXSTGrIeMJuUOZOD1ly3wl4AMVKNORoHcC6zQ-1AICqDjsv0NtCrV-TVH--M7T8Z8H9ui0Lp6avLbR7wACSi6__DjH3OktvCP8UBZ4CQLzB-GFUzdLvvDJ35x_zOQawfRQP1vRV1-gF6kPIPRUtGisJJXRpGkdc93bPYrbAGbbjqK83jxv4m=w320-h198" title="Setting the Switch mode" width="320" /></a>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">
Switch mode option in ELRSv3 script
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div>
<br />
<p></p>
<h3>Dynamic RF power</h3>
<p>
With Dynamic RF, the transmitter and receiver negotiate the RF
power required based on RQly (received link quality) telemetry. If the link is good, the transmitter will transmit at lower power, only ramping up if
the received signal quality drops.
</p>
<p>The Dynamic option is set in the ELRSv3 script.</p>
<p></p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEi4sdJS5FJAHvtfKvlVZP5x4-VHeOZYjyCqPB8ufhqXdtJ43zQNCbRW-z1Cqdo6yd-26BdzxUz-8Whpy1YTPrRd7wIg8zHAeANz5fg1fH6nCz2CHfLQcV6spNKt_PhcjDBcji3wX-OCfSZsBe8ABDKpuSoS09fFfX7ZSGvO7iWI8vuTL_9VgW5yHiuM51zU" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Dynamic RF option in ELRSv3 Lua script" data-original-height="2871" data-original-width="4592" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEi4sdJS5FJAHvtfKvlVZP5x4-VHeOZYjyCqPB8ufhqXdtJ43zQNCbRW-z1Cqdo6yd-26BdzxUz-8Whpy1YTPrRd7wIg8zHAeANz5fg1fH6nCz2CHfLQcV6spNKt_PhcjDBcji3wX-OCfSZsBe8ABDKpuSoS09fFfX7ZSGvO7iWI8vuTL_9VgW5yHiuM51zU=w320-h200" title="Setting the Dynamic RF option" width="320" /></a>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">
Dynamic RF setting.<br /></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<div>
<h4 style="text-align: left;">Using EU/LBT firmware</h4>
<p style="text-align: left;">If using the EU/LBT variant of the ELRS firmware, the RF power is limited to 100mW. That's still considerably more than needed for reliable line of sight operation
(the precise range will depend on antenna orientation, packet rate, switch
mode etc.)
</p><h3 style="text-align: left;">Telemetry Ratio</h3><p style="text-align: left;">The telemetry ratio (TLM) is the proportion of telemetry frames (downlink) to all frames (uplink and downlink) in a given time interval. The smaller the ratio, the higher the telemetry rate. </p><p style="text-align: left;">TLM is configured via the ELRS Lua script. Start with the default ratio, and if you need a higher update rate (e.g. for altitude telemetry) then reduce the ratio. </p>
<p></p>
<p></p>
<h3>Init Rate</h3>
<p>
When you switch on the receiver, there may be a delay of a few seconds while the receiver tries different packet rates until a match is found with the
transmitter. The delay will depend on the packet rate - the slower the
rate, the longer the delay.
</p>
<p>
If you always use the same packet rate for a given receiver, you
can reduce the delay as follows: run the ELRSv3 Lua script, select Other
Devices, select your receiver and set Init Rate to the rate you use.
Connection will be virtually instant, if the tx is already running when
the rx is powered.
</p>
<p></p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEg9_teE-YtYkEFXPS9IR6ABRMHA3PntJY52ivkXyOOO901wbhiW9N4xLtRxzcVNiFumU3NcPm-6jE2UpQyrFJTtIclireMJdDVdXrGDxLc9lc0HJfbwyX4Zow10TZJ3MWN5sFCNuycY4ZbDgor4NytOn1hvICiVBVHZg6m6iDGOAWngweBWjiexfO7slFHZ" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="The receiver config page highlighting Init Rate" data-original-height="1934" data-original-width="3119" height="198" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEg9_teE-YtYkEFXPS9IR6ABRMHA3PntJY52ivkXyOOO901wbhiW9N4xLtRxzcVNiFumU3NcPm-6jE2UpQyrFJTtIclireMJdDVdXrGDxLc9lc0HJfbwyX4Zow10TZJ3MWN5sFCNuycY4ZbDgor4NytOn1hvICiVBVHZg6m6iDGOAWngweBWjiexfO7slFHZ=w320-h198" title="The Init Rate option in the rx configuration page" width="320" /></a>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">
Init Rate option can reduce startup delay
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p></p>
<div>
<h3>RF signal low/critical alerts </h3>
<p>
When using an ELRS module, both OpenTX and EdgeTX use RQly telemetry
(instead of RSSI) for the low/critical alerts. Recommended thresholds
are 50% (low) and 20% (critical). The alert thresholds are set in
the Telemetry menu.
</p>
<p></p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgVHMU2-vfb8rFSSAXpjbD0b3BommP5RVYDOO2jt8ihGsJtG4ZD_r97zKrpY3Jw-KxwiR8SwDINoQepf8swD8LRmG96pqrxXFCfPY8-3PrwVgbwOMAatKhO7CCA1hZ5FTBkvuKMOx4ADBhfYxxINj8zmG__xS44EjlEydeQ34W-DvnSIDPib3btROAi1Oqt" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="RF alert menu in EdgeTX" data-original-height="180" data-original-width="262" height="220" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgVHMU2-vfb8rFSSAXpjbD0b3BommP5RVYDOO2jt8ihGsJtG4ZD_r97zKrpY3Jw-KxwiR8SwDINoQepf8swD8LRmG96pqrxXFCfPY8-3PrwVgbwOMAatKhO7CCA1hZ5FTBkvuKMOx4ADBhfYxxINj8zmG__xS44EjlEydeQ34W-DvnSIDPib3btROAi1Oqt=w320-h220" title="Setting low/critical signal thresholds" width="320" /></a>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">
Setting the alarm thresholds in EdgeTX
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div>
<h3>Setting the failsafe</h3>
<p>
Failsafe may be set via the ELRSv3 Lua script. Select 'Other Devices',
choose the receiver, and then Set Failsafe Pos.
</p>
<p></p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjrPwVhgNvLSrZOSE5yPnlkKc56qxlGylE-J-o4YONzxOuUZ7auuz6nuVcIm0tiQTKuUDm65KAFAEeycWw3frs2ErUdLKS5gvgahdzlzx98S7wz2r_9PMVG2nCiSFQfVHnCKgi7zkn-n8AGqXxClSiRBUfCY95wHBRbY89gah2NPSuln2ZNOOc_U763Qg6_" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="ELRS receiver configuration menu" data-original-height="1923" data-original-width="3111" height="198" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjrPwVhgNvLSrZOSE5yPnlkKc56qxlGylE-J-o4YONzxOuUZ7auuz6nuVcIm0tiQTKuUDm65KAFAEeycWw3frs2ErUdLKS5gvgahdzlzx98S7wz2r_9PMVG2nCiSFQfVHnCKgi7zkn-n8AGqXxClSiRBUfCY95wHBRbY89gah2NPSuln2ZNOOc_U763Qg6_=w320-h198" title="Failsafe option in rx configuration menu" width="320" /></a>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">
Failsafe option in receiver menu
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>Model Match</h3>
<p>
ELRS v3.2 supports model match. This works like model match in ACCST
radios, and is designed to prevent crashes as a result of selecting the
wrong model.
</p>
<p>To use Model match, you first assign a unique 'receiver
number' in the transmitter's Model Setup menu.
</p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgDybGDpjUBVxJjshluABt3T_FGD-rYM1iUExPR34ytmekTbmXG7l6zftwIgA1PnPDtS8DPUlkstfQaYq4niZnk-nHp5Cs5YNA81Q2GuQNRFtk8kNV9__7PrIxJHpWT9JIarkQzW79gmE7vsVheD2z7VkVSnwJX1E-Kd3LSzrS-TheaPPqn2bAioJTIpt6t" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Model Setup menu in EdgeTX" data-original-height="180" data-original-width="261" height="221" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgDybGDpjUBVxJjshluABt3T_FGD-rYM1iUExPR34ytmekTbmXG7l6zftwIgA1PnPDtS8DPUlkstfQaYq4niZnk-nHp5Cs5YNA81Q2GuQNRFtk8kNV9__7PrIxJHpWT9JIarkQzW79gmE7vsVheD2z7VkVSnwJX1E-Kd3LSzrS-TheaPPqn2bAioJTIpt6t=w320-h221" title="Setting the receiver number" width="320" /></a>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">
Setting the receiver number in EdgeTX
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p style="text-align: left;">
Next, switch on the receiver. Then open the ELRSv3 Lua script, select
External Devices, and select the receiver. Finally go to the Model
Match field and toggle off and on. The receiver number from the Model
Setup menu is copied 'over the air' to the receiver. </p><p style="text-align: left;">From now on, that model memory will only control a receiver with matching receiver number (as well as matching passphrase).</p>
<a id="ch5"></a><h2 style="text-align: left;">The Channel 5 conundrum</h2>
</div>
<p style="text-align: left;">
CH5 has a special role. In this section, I'll explain why, and
how to manage it.
</p>
<h3>Channel 5 and arming</h3>
<p>ELRS reserves CH5 as an 'arming' function. This feature was originally conceived for use with flight controllers. Depending on CH5, the motor would be either armed or disarmed.</p>
<p>
Of course, sailplanes don't have flight controllers or even motors, so you
might think that the arming state can be ignored. However that's not the
case, because arming also impacts the RF link. For example certain settings cannot be changed while the system is armed, and Dynamic
RF is not fully functional while the system
is <i>dis</i>armed.
</p>
<p>
For these reasons, you should take control of the arming state. Best practice is:</p>
<p></p>
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li>When on the ground, model should (ideally) be disarmed</li>
<li>When in the air, it should <i>always </i>be armed. </li>
</ul>
<p></p>
<p>All this means managing CH5 correctly.</p>
<h3>How ELRS interprets CH5</h3>
<p>Channel 5 commands above 1500µs (servo
centre) are interpreted by the RF module as 'armed', otherwise 'disarmed'. This
applies regardless of switch mode, including the full res modes.</p><p>You can monitor the arm state by running the ELRSv3 Lua script. The armed state is shown in the top line of the main menu. </p>
<h3>CH5: what not to do</h3>
<p>
So what does this mean for your existing OpenTX or EdgeTX setups?
</p>
<div>
<p>
First do not leave CH5 unassigned - this would generate a centre command which is borderline between armed
and disarmed. It would be a matter of luck as to which was selected,
or - worse - it might oscillate between the two.
</p>
<p>
Secondly, do not assign CH5 to a flying surface like elevator or
aileron. The servo may work normally, but behind the scenes the arming
state will flip-flop as the stick is moved past centre.
</p>
<h3>Assigning CH5 to the armed function</h3>
<p>In this section we'll see how to assign CH5 correctly.</p>
<p>Start with a clean CH5. So if CH5 is already assigned to a servo, then it should be swapped with an empty channel. My <a href="https://rc-soar.com/opentx/lua/chanchange/index.htm">Channel Changer</a> script makes this easy. So for example, if CH7 is not used, swap CH5 with CH7. Make sure to choose a target channel (CH7 in this example) which is accessible in the receiver, as we'll use it later.</p>
<p>There are now three options:</p>
</div>
<div>
<ul>
<li>
<i> Option 1</i>: Set CH5 to indicate 'permanently armed'. To do this,
create a single mixer for CH5 with source set to 'MAX'. This is the simplest method, but see the note below.</li>
<li>
<i> Option 2</i>: As above, but also provide a method for
disarming, for example a long press on a momentary button. This
provides a little more flexibility, but may or may not be practical
depending on your transmitter, and programming skills.
</li>
<li>
<i> Option 3</i>: For electric models, link CH5 to an existing motor
arming/cut function. For example, if the arming switch is logical
switch L05, set the source of CH5 to 'L05'. This method is okay as
long as you don't disarm while in the air.
</li>
</ul>
</div>
<p style="background-color: lightgrey; border-radius: 1em; font-size: smaller; margin: 1em; padding: 1em;">
<i>Dynamic RF note: </i>To avoid unnecessary current drain when the
receiver is switched off, make sure to set Max RF power to no more than
100mW if using Dynamic RF. Don't worry, this is well in excess of what is
needed for line-of-sight applications (it's also the maximum for EU/LBT
firmware).
</p>
<h3>Remapping the CH5 receiver pins</h3>
<p>
The sole function of the CH5 <i>data</i> is to indicate the armed
state. Does this mean that the CH5 <i>pins</i> on the receiver go to
waste? Fortunately not, since you can route another channel's data to use
the CH5 pins. The obvious candidate is the channel that you swapped with
CH5 earlier.
</p>
<p>
To remap a pin, you can use either the ELRSv3 script or the receiver's
WebUI.
</p>
<h2 style="text-align: left;"><b>Benefits and drawbacks of ELRS</b></h2>
<p style="text-align: left;">
If you've got this far, congratulations, you're ready to go with ELRS!
</p>
<p style="text-align: left;">
Finally, here are some thoughts on ELRS compared with traditional protocols
like ACCST:</p>
<div><i>Benefits</i></div>
<div>
<ul>
<li>Greater range means no more 'RF signal low/critical' alerts</li>
<li>Dynamic RF power</li>
<li>Remote configuration </li>
<li>Based on well-proven open source project</li>
<li>No need for frequency tuning (cf. MPM with ACCST)</li>
<li>Lower price hardware</li>
</ul>
<div><i>Drawbacks</i></div>
<ul>
<li>More complicated configuration </li>
<li>
Changes are needed to legacy setups due to the CH5 requirements.
</li>
<li>Higher current drain of both tx and rx</li>
</ul>
<p style="text-align: left;">All in all, ELRS is an exciting development for LoS flyers, and I'm sure we are
going to hear more about it in the coming months. These really are
interesting times!
</p>
<h2 style="text-align: left;">
Links</h2>
<div><a href="https://www.expresslrs.org/">ELRS official website</a></div>
<div>
<a href="https://rc-soar.blogspot.com/2023/08/radiomasterpocket.html">Review: RadioMaster Pocket transmitter</a>
</div>
<div>
<a href="https://rc-soar.blogspot.com/2023/06/review-radiomaster-elrs-receivers-er6g.html">Review: RadioMaster ER6G and ER8G receivers</a>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6178637817134212554.post-1044037836167023832023-08-02T13:10:00.245+01:002024-02-13T11:59:45.476+00:00RadioMaster Pocket: a fine little EdgeTX / ELRS / MPM transmitter!<p>What's this dinky transmitter on my desk? It's the <i>Pocket</i> - the smallest in a series of compact transmitters from RadioMaster. It comes with a choice of modules (ELRS or CC2500 MPM) and is <i>very</i> keenly priced. Oh, and it's stored in a little pouch!</p><p><i>Spoiler alert: </i>the Pocket may cost ~£65, yet is more than a match for £1000+ radios. I know because I've flown an F3F model with it, with all the <a href="https://rc-soar.com/opentx/setups/f3f/index.htm">mixer bells and whistles</a>. Crazy times!</p><p>Read on and find out if the Pocket is for you...</p><p><span></span></p><a name='more'></a><p></p>
<p style="text-align: left;"></p>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjq4pOH6QBH-s0soGzQycLhNlO6Lk7Ck_yxLS1U40V9wCkubl7sZB33bs92LPrb5LOboFz4yee-arPE43PjtjSFrPxoaMrp6dany4-8kSavywwLjSerHwB6U-0D0NdIupqL4gFnSagnypjUL0Xv-IOAdTbVHizLTBZJfXxG-djz4l4pO7iRi1tkUpL8nd7n" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="RadioMaster Pocket transmitter review" data-original-height="840" data-original-width="1680" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjq4pOH6QBH-s0soGzQycLhNlO6Lk7Ck_yxLS1U40V9wCkubl7sZB33bs92LPrb5LOboFz4yee-arPE43PjtjSFrPxoaMrp6dany4-8kSavywwLjSerHwB6U-0D0NdIupqL4gFnSagnypjUL0Xv-IOAdTbVHizLTBZJfXxG-djz4l4pO7iRi1tkUpL8nd7n=w400-h200" title="RadioMaster Pocket transmitter" width="400" /></a></div><div>
<p></p>
<h2 style="text-align: left;">What’s in the box</h2>
<p>
Aha, that tiny box! Can it really contain a transmitter? Well yes... and there's more inside:</p>
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li>Carry pouch</li><li>Instruction leaflet (very basic)</li><li>USB cable</li><li>Sheet of decorative transfers</li><li>Screen protector</li>
</ul><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjYipzvNHFwRpzTl585-g-dw7ugpkKDt6laLAOhHPtTqXOXFBWBeYSEXLdhaQQIgi33TyifGis8NejQU0EfUDOPxt3PRyYKUgVpUVkf4Tq2btqWHmwzobXUxm_Yl8xfQnmk60VBJ-i955IvtNPqAPHgFg_BVPnWMrFeY6q_lAeFS_8V1JjzFPYFdCR527zf" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img alt="Contents of Pocket package" data-original-height="1050" data-original-width="1465" height="286" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjYipzvNHFwRpzTl585-g-dw7ugpkKDt6laLAOhHPtTqXOXFBWBeYSEXLdhaQQIgi33TyifGis8NejQU0EfUDOPxt3PRyYKUgVpUVkf4Tq2btqWHmwzobXUxm_Yl8xfQnmk60VBJ-i955IvtNPqAPHgFg_BVPnWMrFeY6q_lAeFS_8V1JjzFPYFdCR527zf=w400-h286" title="Items included in package" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td></tr></tbody></table><div></div>
<p>
The transmitter takes two 18650 LiIon batteries. These are not supplied, but are easy to source.</p>
<h2 style="text-align: left;">Design and build</h2>
<p>Put on your sun shades, because the Pocket is offered in a range of whacky colours including transparent blue,
pink, green, and orange. Mine was
supplied in Classic Charcoal, but I also received an additional shell in orange. I think the orange looks rather fun!</p>
<p style="background-color: lightgrey; border-radius: 1em; font-size: smaller; padding: 1em;"><i>Changing the shell. </i>To replace the shell you have to completely disassemble the radio. It's not difficult, but care is needed in a couple of areas. To unplug the antenna connector from the PCB, start by scraping off the yellow glue, then lift off the connector cleanly to avoid distorting the contacts. <br />The antenna is also worth a mention. The base has a split collar which squeezes through a hole in the case - and strong fingers are needed to release it. Release the motherboard first, to give your fingers more room to work.</p>
<p>Don't be deceived by the low price - the shell is a super nice moulding. </p>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjUE1Nhy9Dd3AC_65WBWTZ7vjOyDW3ZnWjDt5XhCvjTcAeEjMC6TQxNpErtHnCFOiRtfadK1nC-3DcQ1Lgzy45v3NMtocFig7oqF1dRMP32TwuvVlbNbXdOf13qR6tTHuJFC4qw6EMsILEVYrJrCc6Tx5-dUpy4xbnEoth8GPdJatTF4e4pAMfDfodWmgQC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" data-original-height="1050" data-original-width="1481" height="284" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjUE1Nhy9Dd3AC_65WBWTZ7vjOyDW3ZnWjDt5XhCvjTcAeEjMC6TQxNpErtHnCFOiRtfadK1nC-3DcQ1Lgzy45v3NMtocFig7oqF1dRMP32TwuvVlbNbXdOf13qR6tTHuJFC4qw6EMsILEVYrJrCc6Tx5-dUpy4xbnEoth8GPdJatTF4e4pAMfDfodWmgQC=w400-h284" width="400" /></a>
</div>
<p></p>
<p>
The side cheeks are removable for access
to the batteries and gimbal adjusters. They're made of a flexible plastic with a non-slip texture.</p>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhYlM0fkRKlhIhsdxLA_q2nct5E3--C_lOEMcVujil2Wzv3StbLz5-1q-TVq666ifM96TPq_GibDCXI1t7GCByrnx4211yQvFKvM3SJ8cpQiYysoAI0fH5MbskbZiyEthjTfMHGPlhoYAUqtVt-s13UKLs9JrU72r_EiT5caaC01VHhA_3moWq35dm1O5_G"><img alt="" data-original-height="1050" data-original-width="1400" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhYlM0fkRKlhIhsdxLA_q2nct5E3--C_lOEMcVujil2Wzv3StbLz5-1q-TVq666ifM96TPq_GibDCXI1t7GCByrnx4211yQvFKvM3SJ8cpQiYysoAI0fH5MbskbZiyEthjTfMHGPlhoYAUqtVt-s13UKLs9JrU72r_EiT5caaC01VHhA_3moWq35dm1O5_G=w400-h300" width="400" /></a>
</div>
<br />
</div>
<p></p>
<p>The antenna can rotate through 90 degrees in the vertical axis. When not in use, it can be folded back. In addition, the sticks can be
removed and stowed in the side grips. </p>
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<br />
<p style="text-align: left;">
With the antenna and sticks out of the way, the Pocket fits snugly in its pouch.
</p>
<div>
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<p style="text-align: left;">
The pouch is no gimmick - it means that the tx can be carried in the side pocket of my backpack, freeing space for other stuff like sandwiches, camera etc. My only niggle is that the pouch is a bit tight - 10mm extra width would have been handy.</p>
<h2 style="text-align: left;">Ergonomics </h2>
<p style="text-align: left;">Despite its small size I found the Pocket to be nice to hold (I should say here that I'm a thumber). A useful metric is the distance between the stick centres - on the Pocket, it's 82 mm, compared with the 90 mm for the Zorro and 77 mm for the (rather cramped) TX12. </p><p style="text-align: left;">For prolonged flying at the slope, I like to use a neck strap and it balances perfectly. The grip is not as secure as those on the Zorro, though - this may be a consideration if you fly DLGs. </p><div>The weight with batteries is approximately 390 g compared with the Zorro's 350 g.</div><p style="text-align: left;">All in all, considering its size, the designers have done a splendid job with the ergonomics.</p>
<div>
<p></p>
<p>
</p><h2 style="text-align: left;">Gimbals and trims</h2>
<p>I'm not a gimbal snob, but I do like my gimbals to be robust, adjustable, and to centre consistently. </p><p>The gimbals on the Pocket are very small, all-plastic units. Compared with the TX16S gimbals they're tiny. They're even smaller than those on the TX12 and Zorro. Even so, they have Hall sensos and ball-raced shafts - both nice to see on a budget set.</p><h4 style="text-align: left;">Sticks </h4>
<p>The sticks are removeable and are stowed in a recess in the side of the case when not in use.</p><p>You can't adjust the length, however RadioMaster offer stick extenders which screw in between the gimbal and the stick.</p><p>The stick tops are very sharp as delivered - I have run a needle file over them just to take the edge off. Also the sticks can work loose, so it's a good idea to check them between flights. When removing them take care not to let them drop in the long grass!</p><h4 style="text-align: left;">External gimbal adjustments</h4><p>Each gimbal has three adjuster screws, accessible through holes in the case. Two are for adjusting spring tension, and one is for disengaging the spring on the throttle axis. </p><p>To access the screws, you have to remove the side cheeks first, which is easy enough. Replacing the cheeks is a little fiddly, though. Fortunately you won't have to do this very often.</p><p>The adjuster screws have hex heads.</p>
<p></p>
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<p>Instead of the usual trim levers, there are two miniature 4-way joysticks. These are located either side of the power button. Locating them by feel takes a little getting used to, but they actually work fine.</p>
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</div>
<p style="text-align: left;">All in all. I found the gimbals and trims to be perfectly adequate for sailplane applications.</p><p></p>
<h2 style="text-align: left;">Switches and controls</h2>
<p>The Pocket has a good selection of buttons and switches.</p><p>For your flight mode switch there's a choice of two 3-position rocker switches. These are located either side of the antenna. </p>
<p>Located on the front shoulders are two push-on/push-off switches. A green LED lights up when in the 'on' position, however it's not easy to see - I would program voice callouts for any critical function.</p>
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</div>
<br />
<p>
On the rear left is a momentary button, again with a large pad. This should be good as a DLG launch switch - as long as you launch with your right arm (the switches are soldered to boards, and are not easily swapped).</p>
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<p>Finally on the right rear shoulder is a nicely damped roller which could be used for, say, camber control.
</p>
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</div>
<div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><h2 style="text-align: left;">Programming controls</h2>
<p>
Anyone who has used a RadioMaster transmitter will immediately feel at home with
the Pocket. That is to say: </p><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>The MDL button take you to the Model menu. </li><li>The SYS button take you to the System menu.</li><li>The TELE key takes you to the telemetry screen. </li><li>Navigation is performed using RTN, Page up, Page down keys, and the scroll wheel. </li><li>Press the scroll wheel to confirm your selection.</li></ul><p></p>
<p>
The buttons have a nice positive action, however the scroll
wheel has a slightly loose feel on my unit.
</p>
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</div>
<div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><h2 style="text-align: left;">Light, sound and external connections</h2>
<p>
The LCD panel is located in the ideal position for viewing. It's very small, however I had no
difficulty reading the menus thanks to the bright and contrasty
display.</p>
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</div>
<br />
<p>
Sound from the front-mounted speaker is loud and clear.
</p>
<p></p>
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</div>
<br />
<p>Along the top are DSC (trainer)
socket, and USB data port.
</p>
<p style="text-align: left;"></p>
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<p></p>
<p><br /></p>
<p>
On the bottom are a headphone jack, USB charge input, and MicroSD
card.
</p>
<p></p>
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<p></p>
<h2 style="text-align: left;">RF module</h2>
<p>
My Pocket was equipped with an ELRS module. </p><p style="background-color: lightgrey; border-radius: 1em; font-size: smaller; padding: 1em;"><span style="font-size: 13.3333px;">Thanks to receivers like the RadioMaster ER6G, ELRS is now a viable alternative to traditional protocols like ACCST for fixed wing/line of sight applications, and early testing with an F3F model confirms that it works well in this role.</span></p>
<p>
The unit is also available with the CC2500 MPM (multi-protocol module).
This supports the FrSky ACCST D8 and D16 protocols and a few others. However it does not support Spektrum or Flysky protocols - for that you will
need an external 4-in-1 nano module.
</p><h2 style="text-align: left;">Firmware</h2>
<p>The review unit came with a beta version of EdgeTX V2.10.0. The RF module
was loaded with ELRS v3.0.1 LBT.
</p>
<p>
After configuring the ELRS passphrase, I successfully
bound the Pocket with an ER8G receiver running ELRS v3.2.1.
</p>
<p></p>
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<br />
<h3 style="text-align: left;">Link quality with LBT firmware </h3><p>With a receiver connected, I noticed that the link quality (RQly) was bouncing between around 88% and 98% - even at close range. Turns out
this is expected behaviour with the LBT firmware. With the FCC firmware,
RQly should return a steady 100%.</p>
<p>
For both the LBT and FCC versions, the low and critical RQly levels are
50% and 20% respectively.
</p>
<h2 style="text-align: left;">Programming EdgeTX</h2>
<p>
The usual caveats apply with EdgeTX. If you're a first time user, then
may find it a little strange. You can't just work it out of the box - some research and digging is required. It's worth persevering though, especially if you have decent technical skills, because it has unrivalled
flexibility. See links at end.</p><h3 style="text-align: left;">Lo-res interface</h3>
<p>
This version of EdgeTX is optimised for low res
screens. It's a little less easy
to navigate than with, say, the version on the FrSky X9D. In any case, the tiny screen means that programming is better done using Companion.
</p><h3 style="text-align: left;">Loading a test setup</h3>
<p>I like to push the boundaries - and the cheaper the radio the harder I push! So I loaded it with my <a href="https://rc-soar.com/opentx/setups/f3f/index.htm">F3F setup</a> with 50+ mixers and <a href="https://rc-soar.com/opentx/lua/adaptivetrim/index.htm">adaptive trim Lua script</a>. The idea was to fly it with my Sting F3F model. </p><p>The first task was to migrate my F3F setup from the TX16S, using Companion. There were just two problems: first, the Pocket was not yet supported by EdgeTX Companion. Secondly, the TX16S was running OpenTX, not EdgeTX. </p><p>So the conversion had to be done in steps.</p><p>First, I converted my TX16S setups into EdgeTX format. I did this by importing the TX16S models into EdgeTX Companion, <i>using a Zorro profile</i>. Next, I extracted the YAML file from the ETX file (see note below). Lastly, I copied the YAML file to the /MODELS folder on the SD card. To my relief it
was successfully recognised. With one or two adjustments, it was ready for flight!</p><p>The Pocket will no doubt be supported by EdgeTX Companion soon, allowing existing setups - whether EdgeTX or OpenTX - to be migrated in a single step.</p> <p style="background-color: lightgrey; border-radius: 1em; font-size: smaller; padding: 1em;"><i>Tip:</i> .ETX files are actually zip archives. To extract YAML model files from a .ETX container, change the file extension from .ETX to .ZIP, then expand. The YAML model files are contained in the /MODELS sub-folder.</p>
<h2 style="text-align: left;">Flight testing</h2><p>For flight testing I used my Sting F3F slope racer equipped with six servos, 4-cell NiMH pack, and ER8G receiver. This is my 'hack' F3F model which I use for testing new radios. The session took place at Ivinghoe Beacon, my local slope 60 km north of London.</p><p>The session was uneventful. In fact, I much enjoyed using the transmitter. Partly because it was so comfortable that I almost forgot that I was using a small transmitter. And partly because it became something of a talking point with my clubmates!</p><h2 style="text-align: left;">Pocket v. Zorro</h2><p>The Pocket and Zorro are both compact transmitters, and inevitably there's some overlap in features. </p><p>I have already reviewed the Zorro. Comparing the two radios, the Zorro wins on screen size, ergonomics and number of switches. It's also available with a 4-in-1 module which supports Spektrum and Flysky protocols. Plus, it will accept the AG01 Mini CNC gimbals.</p><p>The Pocket wins on portability, larger capacity batteries - and price.</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgju_joRdAuCyQ7d-i8sMIPbZHqsJi7QVLwWj3bSqWmagB895o61Lgmtz525Le3VECFoWeN7pZAmG775_VDi-hsZjHlPOxArCEyi2wxOU4PcWP8D9WdXx7K8Y0CiyhqwkZSqB2nWbLIqYhZuP3robhzo81VdaluswdzYxwprhuSCpiM5dKyXiX9zKUveOY_" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" data-original-height="797" data-original-width="1680" height="190" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgju_joRdAuCyQ7d-i8sMIPbZHqsJi7QVLwWj3bSqWmagB895o61Lgmtz525Le3VECFoWeN7pZAmG775_VDi-hsZjHlPOxArCEyi2wxOU4PcWP8D9WdXx7K8Y0CiyhqwkZSqB2nWbLIqYhZuP3robhzo81VdaluswdzYxwprhuSCpiM5dKyXiX9zKUveOY_=w400-h190" width="400" /></a></div>
<h2 style="text-align: left;">Verdict</h2>
<p></p></div>
</div>
<p style="text-align: left;">
It’s hard not to be captivated by the Pocket. It's cleverly designed and surprisingly well featured for such a small and inexpensive unit. The ability to carry it in a pouch is no gimmick.</p><p style="text-align: left;">Sure, there one or two compromises due to its small size, like the shallow grip and reduced number of switches. And the small
screen will be a negative factor if you do lots of programming directly on the transmitter. (If, like me, you program using Companion then screen size will not be an issue.) But overall it's thoroughly practical little tx.</p><p style="text-align: left;">If you've never programmed EdgeTX before, make sure to do your research before committing. It's incredibly powerful, but the learning curve is steep.</p><p style="text-align: left;">The Pocket should appeal to these groups:</p><p style="text-align: left;"></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Slope soarers who like to
combine flying with hiking.</li><li>Sport flyers
who just want an ultra compact radio. </li><li>Right handed DLG flyers.</li></ul><p></p><p style="text-align: left;">To sum up, the Pocket is an intriguing and capable ultra-compact radio. I think RadioMaster have another winner on their hands!</p>
<h2 style="text-align: left;">Specifications</h2>
<p></p>
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li>
Dimensions: 156.6*65.1*125.3mm (Folded size) /156.6*73.1*154.8mm (Unfold
size)
</li>
<li>Weight: 288 grams</li>
<li>Operating frequency: 2.400GHz-2.480GHz </li>
<li>Internal RF Options: CC2500 multi-protocol / ELRS 2.4GHz</li>
<li>Supported protocols: Module dependent</li>
<li>
RF power: CC2500 20dBm max / ELRS FCC: 24dBm max / ELRS EU-LBT: 20dBm max
</li>
<li>Operational voltage: 6.6-8.4v DC </li>
<li>Control distance: > 2km @ 20dBm </li>
<li>Operating system: EdgeTX</li>
<li>Control channels: Maximum 16 (Receiver dependent)</li>
<li>Display: 128*64 Monochrome LCD</li>
<li>Battery: 2pcs 18650 batteries (Not included) </li>
<li>Charging: Built in USB-C QC3 Charging</li>
<li>Upgradable Firmware: Via USB or the included SD card</li>
<li>Gimbal: Hall-effect </li>
<li>
Module bay: Nano size (Compatible with RadioMaster Nano-size modules, TBS
Nano Crossfire / Nano Tracer )
</li>
</ul>
<h2 style="text-align: left;">Links</h2>
<div><a href="https://rc-soar.blogspot.com/2023/08/an-introduction-to-elrs-including.html">Introduction to ELRS - including the CH5 conundrum!</a> </div>
<div><a href="https://rc-soar.blogspot.com/2023/06/review-radiomaster-elrs-receivers-er6g.html">Review of RadioMaster ER6G and ER8G glider
receivers</a></div><div><div><a href="https://rc-soar.com/opentx/basics/index.htm">OpenTX key concepts</a> (also applies to EdgeTX)</div></div><div><div>RadioMaster website: <a href="http://www.radiomasterrc.com">www.radiomasterrc.com</a></div></div><div><br /></div>
</div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6178637817134212554.post-53042744439831900962023-06-15T11:36:00.442+01:002024-02-08T13:46:53.104+00:00Review of RadioMaster ER6G, ER6GV, ER8G and ER8GV receivers for ELRS <div style="text-align: left;">
<p style="text-align: left;">RadioMaster have just released a bunch of ELRS receivers specially for gliders
and electric models. These are notable for being some of the first ELRS receivers to have servo connectors integrated on the main board.
</p>
<p style="text-align: left;">I've had a lot of fun evaluating these receivers, including flight testing them in DLG and F3F models. In this review, you'll find detailed descriptions, with example configurations, best practice, and tips for ALT telemetry. </p><p style="text-align: left;">Let's take a closer look!
</p>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span><a name='more'></a></span>
<p style="background-color: lightgrey; border-radius: 1em; padding: 1em; text-align: left;">
<i>Full disclosure</i>: RadioMaster provided these receivers free of charge. However, they did
not place any conditions on the content of this review, and all opinions are my own.</p>
<div><br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/RRBMTVxImdk" width="320" youtube-src-id="RRBMTVxImdk"></iframe>
</div>
<div><br /></div>
</div>
</div>
<h2 style="text-align: left;">Four ELRS receivers for gliders</h2>
<p>
The receivers submitted for review are the ER6G and ER6GV (6-channel), and the
ERG8 and ER8GV (8-channel). They all have the following features in common:
</p>
<p></p>
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li>PWM outputs</li>
<li>Dual whisker antennae</li>
<li>WiFi enabled (ESP32)</li>
<li>Built-in telemetry including RxBt, RSSI, RQly</li>
<li>Vario sensor ('V' receivers only)</li>
<li>Remote binding</li>
<li>Operating voltage of 3.5 - 8.4V</li>
<li>Telemetry of external voltage</li>
</ul>
<p style="text-align: left;">
All units were supplied with ELRS 3.2.1 installed. Let's now look at
each receiver in more detail:
</p>
<h2 style="text-align: left;">ER6G receiver</h2>
<p>
The ER6G is a compact single-board 6-channel receiver. Weight is just 5
grams.
</p>
<p>
Included in the package is a connector for CH6, and a wire for external voltage telemetry.
</p>
<p></p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhv6tfhjF_r6bEWiHZZ74IUKflat23kWqlKOvLLPphlPee8zu1NcgMwcFZfJa-IE2oIjWDYNmUzq7GTp9DzkT0ZG3i-uftD_FCsCcUCv842D69h0k2z2svcE9sWRgNihmyMuCqKOUTz0TZfnjglq5fnTPaYZYExCQBDtWYjpdkAtxsJFvBwo5YDXjMcz6tY" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Contents of package of RM ER6GV receiver" data-original-height="2230" data-original-width="4582" height="195" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhv6tfhjF_r6bEWiHZZ74IUKflat23kWqlKOvLLPphlPee8zu1NcgMwcFZfJa-IE2oIjWDYNmUzq7GTp9DzkT0ZG3i-uftD_FCsCcUCv842D69h0k2z2svcE9sWRgNihmyMuCqKOUTz0TZfnjglq5fnTPaYZYExCQBDtWYjpdkAtxsJFvBwo5YDXjMcz6tY=w400-h195" title="RM ER6GV package contents" width="400" /></a>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">
Rx with CH6 connector, and wire for external voltage telemetry
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p></p>
<p></p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhDP4xh73oPI6V0kZemfBXIk18-l0UghyfBOlwzclk8zkURIBUcGr8COla3HxRsw2RtWQRRFRQT_wkuMaMee3_yXDuU1JB5ULhhRBDcnrAfS8Bz7w0vJsLIoMi41hjMpcT4TAvpdH3egL_7xdIizpA-c6QiYsVq4Nv7LQQxTKaJPG2I1QRXfmpjcNloemIo" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="RadioMaster ER6GV vario receiver" data-original-height="1640" data-original-width="4250" height="154" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhDP4xh73oPI6V0kZemfBXIk18-l0UghyfBOlwzclk8zkURIBUcGr8COla3HxRsw2RtWQRRFRQT_wkuMaMee3_yXDuU1JB5ULhhRBDcnrAfS8Bz7w0vJsLIoMi41hjMpcT4TAvpdH3egL_7xdIizpA-c6QiYsVq4Nv7LQQxTKaJPG2I1QRXfmpjcNloemIo=w400-h154" title="RadioMaster ER6GV vario receiver" width="400" /></a>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">
'V' version has integrated vario
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p></p>
<div>
<h4 style="text-align: left;">Protection</h4>
<p style="text-align: left;">The receiver is wrapped in layer of thick heatshrink tube. Two spare lengths of heatshrink are provided in case you make the channel 6 mod (see below). </p><p style="text-align: left;">The antenna connectors lack the usual yellow glue, instead they rely on the heatshrink to keep them in place. </p>
<p></p>
<h4 style="text-align: left;">Adding the channel 6 connector</h4>
<p>
As supplied there are only five PWM pins available. If you need a sixth, then you'll need to get soldering! </p>
<p>
The obvious option is to solder the supplied PWM connector.
However, I don't like this method because (a) the connector interferes with one of the antennae, and (b) I'm pretty sure the connector will have to be outward-facing, which will greatly increase the length of the unit.</p>
<p>
Instead, I've soldered a flying lead directly to the pads, using the spare heatshrink to cover the work. To
avoid pressure on the reset button, I bored a hole through the heatshrink
using the sharpened end of a brass tube.
</p>
<p></p>
<p></p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjPtDKD881ikbzTHEpseG9FHzMjwigE3Pubt1GtK7X_Wyh0PzwoK02i-g7KcFQXiyNwjYoYvrjGt_O4hTmpI5ftiDROPuH_eS-Ee4ZifbuKYWKBjm5DOxfEG6Rlvngze0yGTfsgkaMYXTpqczojoAuQFqm1ZfJ5pe7VjFCYTiwb2nWp5nRX8PQU3kkZrmVA" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="ER6G channel 6 flying lead modification" data-original-height="2369" data-original-width="4591" height="206" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjPtDKD881ikbzTHEpseG9FHzMjwigE3Pubt1GtK7X_Wyh0PzwoK02i-g7KcFQXiyNwjYoYvrjGt_O4hTmpI5ftiDROPuH_eS-Ee4ZifbuKYWKBjm5DOxfEG6Rlvngze0yGTfsgkaMYXTpqczojoAuQFqm1ZfJ5pe7VjFCYTiwb2nWp5nRX8PQU3kkZrmVA=w400-h206" title="Channel 6 flying lead modification" width="400" /></a>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">
Channel 6 flying lead mod (heatshrink covering not yet applied)
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgzVCx_iRXUMsPghQMhH5ruai9xgBnLQBiUPSUi_T5Kl6Jv-_ti0XyZkWtShtPNoklSU4-kD9pzUj0HX1SgxPDKBJt5S6gNwxd4ZOzvgLnwyIi5yO_h1ufsogiV3qGUyc9T86SGOYnYgWH5ZWnxuSalQaSyz5Fwh6bTWQpuYWtxs5dUY8Vh-QwU_jqSy_6j" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="ER6G receiver with modification for CH6" data-original-height="2218" data-original-width="4214" height="210" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgzVCx_iRXUMsPghQMhH5ruai9xgBnLQBiUPSUi_T5Kl6Jv-_ti0XyZkWtShtPNoklSU4-kD9pzUj0HX1SgxPDKBJt5S6gNwxd4ZOzvgLnwyIi5yO_h1ufsogiV3qGUyc9T86SGOYnYgWH5ZWnxuSalQaSyz5Fwh6bTWQpuYWtxs5dUY8Vh-QwU_jqSy_6j=w400-h210" title="Modification for CH6" width="400" /></a>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">
Completed CH6 mod. Note the hole to avoid pressure on reset button.
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
</div>
<p style="text-align: left;"><br /></p>
<h4 style="text-align: left;">
Battery connection (don't use the CH6 port!)
</h4>
<p>
According to the instructions, power must be supplied through one of CH 1-5,
not CH6. This is because CH 1-5 share a robust power bus, whereas the CH6 power lines are tapped via tracks on the PCB.
</p>
<p>
If using six servos, or five servos and no CH6 connector, then a Y-lead will
be needed to share a port between a servo and the battery.
</p><h4 style="text-align: left;">Voltage telemetry</h4>
<p>It's always a good idea to calibrate the RxBt telemetry (On my ER6G it was under reading by 0.2 V). Use a meter to measure the voltage and adjust the sensor offset in the Telemetry menu. </p><p>The voltage range for external telemetry is 3.0 - 26 V. </p>
<h4 style="text-align: left;">S.Bus support</h4>
<p>
The forthcoming ELRS V3.3 will enable one of the PWM ports to be repurposed for
S.Bus. A typical setup would be PWM for the fuselage servos, and S.Bus for the wing servos (an S.Bus to PWM converter will of course be needed if the servos don't support S.Bus).
</p>
<h4 style="text-align: left;">Compared with the FrSky RX6R</h4>
<p style="text-align: left;">
The ER6G is an obvious candidate to replace the popular FrSky RX6R. However,
while the ER6G is slimmer, it is also longer by ~12 mm. Worth bearing in
mind for tighter installations.
</p>
<div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjY7jW5nt0FNKYkcEI3zkk0PEVsyUm3-lF8pRLg8azrSIeOPrfhIoB1UjbG-pDIAFM_OnaZWDSsjYizauc0YrumKXEo34WKE_a9AoUsTVCXqQENupfrjRZtElEYlJ943tp_20dGY_AC6QKhwKGZlEZVFfybPMMKBp0RX0DBr1bnpA1WVC4Kr_uFI8J53Jl8" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="FrSky RX6R compared with ER6GV" data-original-height="3526" data-original-width="5136" height="275" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjY7jW5nt0FNKYkcEI3zkk0PEVsyUm3-lF8pRLg8azrSIeOPrfhIoB1UjbG-pDIAFM_OnaZWDSsjYizauc0YrumKXEo34WKE_a9AoUsTVCXqQENupfrjRZtElEYlJ943tp_20dGY_AC6QKhwKGZlEZVFfybPMMKBp0RX0DBr1bnpA1WVC4Kr_uFI8J53Jl8=w400-h275" title="Size comparison of RX6R and ER6GV" width="400" /></a>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">
FrSky RX6R and RM ER6G compared
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<br />
<h4 style="text-align: left;">Flight testing the ER6GV in a DLG</h4>
<div>
<p>
For flight testing the ER6GV I used my TopSky 1.5 m DLG. This is
equipped with four servos and 4 x 300 mAh NiMH cells.
</p>
<p>The ELRS devs recommend Full Res 8Ch switch mode, with a 100Hz packet rate, and this is what I am using.</p>
<p>ELRS devices reserve CH5 as an arming channel. I have it set high ('armed') on startup. Pressing a button
for 1 second flips to 'disarmed'. There are voice callouts for each
state.<br /></p>
</div>
<p>
I've had several sessions and there have been no problems with control or range. See
below, though, for TLM tweaks.
</p>
<h4>Capturing DLG launch heights.</h4><p style="text-align: left;">My DLG templates (<a href="https://rc-soar.com/opentx/setups/dlg/index.htm">4-servo</a>, and <a href="https://rc-soar.com/opentx/setups/dlg6s/index.htm">6-servo</a>) offer a launch height callout. In order to capture height with sufficient precision, the telemetry data must be transmitted at a reasonably high rate. </p><p style="text-align: left;">The data rate is determined by the telemetry ratio (TLM). This is the proportion of telemetry frames to all frames in a given time interval. The smaller the ratio, the higher the telemetry rate. TLM is configured in the transmitter, via the ELRS Lua script. </p><p>During flight tests using a packet rate of 250 Hz, I found that the default TLM (1:64) did not provide sufficient resolution to capture my launch heights accurately. Decreasing TLM to 1:8 made a significant improvement.</p><p>Below are extracts from the SD card logs which demonstrate the issue. The log recording interval was 0.4 seconds.</p><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>The left hand plot is with TLM = 1:64 (the default). Note the blocky appearance. From the log, it appears that the ALT telemetry data was refreshed every ~2.8 secs. This is insufficient to capture the launch peaks.</li><li>In the right hand plot, TLM = 1:8. From the plot it can be deduced that the ALT telemetry is being sent every 0.4 seconds or less. I think this is just about sufficient.</li></ul><p></p>
<div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEihVlAXILb2DLD8cl1hZxYhC6wxLwSE6wHo3lh1YQbX_UrXUOOQVRyX8JL3Gr-ABpmEHyWsZsnBYf16n7h_POhj1QSKtVg2DA64MLubQcqiNqNMfIn2Xuud9enIgCZYHto8m4CAhhShLz59WcM5HjtDi9W6VIOFn9bLjrqXGCGpc8JwWdjj-8dc-iyzypif" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" data-original-height="672" data-original-width="1316" height="204" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEihVlAXILb2DLD8cl1hZxYhC6wxLwSE6wHo3lh1YQbX_UrXUOOQVRyX8JL3Gr-ABpmEHyWsZsnBYf16n7h_POhj1QSKtVg2DA64MLubQcqiNqNMfIn2Xuud9enIgCZYHto8m4CAhhShLz59WcM5HjtDi9W6VIOFn9bLjrqXGCGpc8JwWdjj-8dc-iyzypif=w400-h204" width="400" /></a>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">
ALT log resolution with TLM = 1:64 (left) and 1:8 (right)
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table><br /></div>
</div>
<h2 style="text-align: left;">ER8G receiver</h2>
<p>
The second receiver provided was the ER8G. This unit has 8 channels. It uses
two boards, with connectors at both ends. Length is 60 mm and weight is 12
grams.
</p>
<p>
The unit is supplied with a UART cable, a length of wire for connecting to
the external voltage pad, and two lengths of extra heatshrink tube.
</p>
<div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div>
<p></p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgZ_oYpEF5S-I5iFobAEZGE30jDWor7jto3TqApNC-bVk0EzdeHm6v1uSs1TIJOSCSb1_jvBUI90QKgKtjRpf5QhSvPRfSUX5-mhPOZcpMsKttSkk7rfBEXTXz758CexgA5T6AM5hoSKbKEYcjGo_oJ6MkaJ_xeL_EIkxqIGSd66shbeZOm0kSNc_o5dQ" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="RadioMaster ER8GV receiver" data-original-height="2588" data-original-width="3403" height="304" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgZ_oYpEF5S-I5iFobAEZGE30jDWor7jto3TqApNC-bVk0EzdeHm6v1uSs1TIJOSCSb1_jvBUI90QKgKtjRpf5QhSvPRfSUX5-mhPOZcpMsKttSkk7rfBEXTXz758CexgA5T6AM5hoSKbKEYcjGo_oJ6MkaJ_xeL_EIkxqIGSd66shbeZOm0kSNc_o5dQ=w400-h304" title="RadioMaster ER8GV receiver" width="400" /></a>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">
ER8GV receiver. There are PWM outputs at both ends.
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p><br /></p>
<h4 style="text-align: left;">Battery connection</h4>
<p>
Unlike its junior sibling, the ER8G has a dedicated port for the battery. The
unit also supports external voltage telemetry in the range 4.0 - 35 V.
</p>
<h4 style="text-align: left;">UART</h4>
<p>
External sensors can be connected via a UART port on the side of the unit.
Voltage, current and GPS sensors are planned.
</p>
<h4 style="text-align: left;">Form factor issues</h4>
<p>
My only gripe with the ER8G/V is the form factor. At 60mm it's too long for a modern F3F ship. Having servo connectors at both
ends further complicates installation. (Yes, the ER8G fits in my Sting,
however this is an old model with lots of room.)
</p>
<p> </p>
<p></p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiv4mHgFVERzKAoajPZi7gAZF1nd-VfJDmTDVo3BIhIUrNPDM-6FM7wLMz6OfaS_86uV2hceiTfdTleGlYMFeSF5khxU0ZDapT5KGVUS1EeNUhOyn2awykkazR0irQZuBrEnGrt1gfFCOOFLyQhrqls44TyP20FCSoQiAmdcYMkqMv4B9AnteRxk0LpvA" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="ER8G receiver installed in Sting" data-original-height="3888" data-original-width="5184" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiv4mHgFVERzKAoajPZi7gAZF1nd-VfJDmTDVo3BIhIUrNPDM-6FM7wLMz6OfaS_86uV2hceiTfdTleGlYMFeSF5khxU0ZDapT5KGVUS1EeNUhOyn2awykkazR0irQZuBrEnGrt1gfFCOOFLyQhrqls44TyP20FCSoQiAmdcYMkqMv4B9AnteRxk0LpvA=w400-h300" title="ER8G receiver in Sting F3F model" width="400" /></a>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">
ER8GV in my Sting F3F model. The length is not ideal!
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<div><br /></div>
<p></p>
<h4 style="text-align: left;">Flight testing the ER8G</h4>
<h3>
<div style="font-size: medium; font-weight: 400;">
<p>
For flight testing the ER8G I used my Sting F3F moulded glider, with six
servos and 4 x 2100 mAh Eneloops.
</p>
<p>
I set the Switch Mode to '8-channel'. This provides eight 10-bit
channels in addition to the (reserved) CH5. Max Power is 100 mW with
Dynamic Power enabled.
</p>
<p>For historical reasons, ELRS reserves channel 5 as an arming channel. For this reason, I moved CH5 (normally for right V-tail) to CH7. I then set the
CH5 source to MAX to indicate 'permanently armed'. For more info on ELRS and CH5, see my <i>Introduction to ELRS</i> (link at end).</p>
<div><br /></div>
<div><br /></div>
<div><br /></div>
<div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEh4FEj7FNihFmw-NninUHwiDZLhiy7b6xqku_8FkFDlPgHQqvPMI1QZq6307nud7BEK9QlpXmxX_RmuekS3Bo3IlQOP_nqkcBgOwXf30CpXzt_6sMHCNHLN2r9MFjlPEOQ-zkayyUb99T3J227_lmyO7RcZgKGNrqAAQJtk1tzHidrffPhEB4KqW0tzfw" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" data-original-height="3255" data-original-width="4447" height="234" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEh4FEj7FNihFmw-NninUHwiDZLhiy7b6xqku_8FkFDlPgHQqvPMI1QZq6307nud7BEK9QlpXmxX_RmuekS3Bo3IlQOP_nqkcBgOwXf30CpXzt_6sMHCNHLN2r9MFjlPEOQ-zkayyUb99T3J227_lmyO7RcZgKGNrqAAQJtk1tzHidrffPhEB4KqW0tzfw" width="320" /></a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br />
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEh4k6D9sjrtrRlwr6XI-OUif2hV3Tdv__EiXjGUY49OFpTbQzRTn5DHWaP7toSQpJGThwh5kuBnSxD1wbI0AZQC2R1XWrZaHkciMHlrI6wP9lu9TGsogsELwV4V9ZS_rKu0ofsPzILOKBlkJDKpNch76kK3aYHQxFrZrdCbursH0tzFg69IokUSWTZKgw" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" data-original-height="3099" data-original-width="4394" height="226" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEh4k6D9sjrtrRlwr6XI-OUif2hV3Tdv__EiXjGUY49OFpTbQzRTn5DHWaP7toSQpJGThwh5kuBnSxD1wbI0AZQC2R1XWrZaHkciMHlrI6wP9lu9TGsogsELwV4V9ZS_rKu0ofsPzILOKBlkJDKpNch76kK3aYHQxFrZrdCbursH0tzFg69IokUSWTZKgw" width="320" /></a>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<div style="font-size: medium; font-weight: 400;">
<p>
The ER8G performed well in spite of using just a single antenna - it turned out that antenna diversity was not enabled! Antenna diversity
is configured via the ELRSv3 Lua script.</p>
<p>
Maximum distance reached during the flight was approximately 150 meters.
The maximum recorded RF output was 25mW, and RQly remained at 100% for
almost all the flight, only momentarily dropping to 95%. On would expect improved figures when using both antennas.
</p>
<div><br /></div>
<div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhlZsdWq50DOHsrMDinwxby4NcvRGFQANY3yXVtS3xh6Dj70XLpcZNAL3apiZonvslrIN_2mB3PL9qyzTsAAdn6c2cjboGjs1GXxFqJms_-5Z6YsPMNf8MqmRCQR8BJ8nUpYcwTMD778hf8_pR4JnLdjQxciX0Vl9soUeqauKzLq_0_nqUm60aDcj25LdgR" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" data-original-height="382" data-original-width="459" height="333" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhlZsdWq50DOHsrMDinwxby4NcvRGFQANY3yXVtS3xh6Dj70XLpcZNAL3apiZonvslrIN_2mB3PL9qyzTsAAdn6c2cjboGjs1GXxFqJms_-5Z6YsPMNf8MqmRCQR8BJ8nUpYcwTMD778hf8_pR4JnLdjQxciX0Vl9soUeqauKzLq_0_nqUm60aDcj25LdgR=w400-h333" width="400" /></a>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">
Telemetry logs showing link quality (RQly) and transmission
power (TPW2). Three flights.shown.
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<br />
<p>
Incidentally, the little Zorro was fully loaded with <a href="https://rc-soar.com/opentx/setups/f3f/index.htm">F3F template</a>, plus Lua scripts for <a href="https://rc-soar.com/opentx/lua/adaptivetrim/index.htm">adaptive trim</a> and <a href="https://rc-soar.com/opentx/lua/advancedsnap/index.htm">adjustable snapflap</a>.
</p>
</div>
</div>
</h3>
<h2 style="text-align: left;">Ranger Nano tx module</h2>
<p>
RadioMaster also sent me a Ranger ELRS module to use in my Zorro. It fits
nicely in the nano bay, although it does increase the overall depth
significantly.</p>
<p>
A T-shaped antenna is provided, this screws into the top of
the unit. </p>
<p>
At the back is a USB data port. Adjacent is an XT30 socket for an external
battery, though this will not be needed for low power/line-of-sight applications.
</p>
<p>
An internal fan is triggered when RF power exceeds a configurable threshold.
The default threshold is 250mW and, given that 50 or 100mW is sufficient for
LoS, the fan should never be needed.
</p>
<p>As with the receivers, the Ranger can be configured over WiFi. </p>
<p><br /></p>
<p></p>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjB52k862s6OXMyKFjlD48cSSdUp4N3iQpezVuiw8nsZRRC1RHIoLdDxzStfcEapv0ejNvTuaRpncEwk2Jik26FAMQvQ9UuQqzDnGxDZZ68GbrP1CsvduXDrTNTNrvL6xbSRAL0l9bs24x-uQE7KOu9qPcvrJhtfv5ZcdOy5ApqwSgzE-4vzARpR9H5tA" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="RadioMaster Zorro with Ranger module" data-original-height="3888" data-original-width="5184" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjB52k862s6OXMyKFjlD48cSSdUp4N3iQpezVuiw8nsZRRC1RHIoLdDxzStfcEapv0ejNvTuaRpncEwk2Jik26FAMQvQ9UuQqzDnGxDZZ68GbrP1CsvduXDrTNTNrvL6xbSRAL0l9bs24x-uQE7KOu9qPcvrJhtfv5ZcdOy5ApqwSgzE-4vzARpR9H5tA=w400-h300" title="RadioMaster Zorro with Ranger module" width="400" /></a>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">
Zorro with Ranger module
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
</div>
<div>
<h4 style="text-align: left;">Current drain</h4>
<h2>
<div style="font-size: medium; font-weight: 400;">
<p>
All measurements taken with the Ranger plugged into the Zorro. The
internal 4-in-1 MPM was disabled, and the backlight was off.
</p>
<div>25mW => <b>260 mA</b></div>
<div>50mW => <b>280 mA</b></div>
<div>100mW => <b>300 mA</b> (approx average)</div>
<div><br /></div>
</div>
</h2>
<h2 style="text-align: left;">Verdict</h2>
<p style="text-align: left;">
Some thoughts on the ER6G and ER8G receivers.
</p>
</div>
<p style="text-align: left;"><i>Benefits</i></p>
<div>
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li>Fully integrated PWM outputs </li>
<li>Option for integrated altitude sensor</li>
<li>The ER6GV is a solid choice for DLGs. </li>
<li>The ER8G is a fine choice for F5J - if it fits!</li>
</ul>
<div><i>Drawbacks</i></div>
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li>The ER8G may be too long for many F3/5X models.</li>
</ul>
<div></div>
<h2 style="text-align: left;"><b>Summary</b></h2>
<p style="text-align: left;">
The ERxG series of receivers are a fine solution for if you fly sailplanes, especially if you fly at the limit of vision. Just make sure that the
ER8G will fit in your model!
</p>
<h2 style="text-align: left;">Links</h2>
</div>
<div>
<div>
<a href="https://rc-soar.blogspot.com/2023/08/an-introduction-to-elrs-including.html">Introduction to ELRS - including the CH5 conundrum!</a></div><div><a href="https://rc-soar.com/opentx/setups/dlg/index.htm">Open/EdgeTX template for DLG with launch height callout</a></div>
<div>
<a href="https://rc-soar.com/opentx/basics/index.htm">Open/EdgeTX key concepts</a> </div>
<div>
RadioMaster website: <a href="http://www.radiomasterrc.com">www.radiomasterrc.com</a>
</div>
</div>
</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6178637817134212554.post-44568493863778553192022-02-06T00:06:00.344+00:002023-08-03T16:02:43.185+01:00RadioMaster Zorro review: pushing the boundaries<p>
RadioMaster have a new baby transmitter. Yes, it's the
<i>Zorro</i>!<i> </i>You'll probably already know that it's packed with
features, supports OpenTX and EdgeTX, and comes with a choice of Multiprotocol
or ELRS modules.
</p>
<p>
However while most of the Zorro reviews focus on its use with drones, this
review takes a different approach - it's geared towards pilots of sailplanes,
DLG and electric gliders. If that sounds like you, then read on!
</p>
<p><span></span></p>
<a name='more'></a>
<p></p>
<h2 style="text-align: left;">In the box</h2>
<div><br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEh0M9PoOr9C_dOZ-WbqnLsxrFiQAR8vDRzP4MCGd1tMvBUmVP_W87vPuuSJjiz722C-EB98UEDNUkdJ1JXIhBsqjU0NexNjaww4f2wD9OM0oBtI7iwFX8_smA_Sr5VZu4UMvD7-M3ECOyKpUcJyBzRAvjYNTyPTgvf-gxYg7P4TB66f-w-dQbcpuQzyig=s2048" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="The Zorro package" border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEh0M9PoOr9C_dOZ-WbqnLsxrFiQAR8vDRzP4MCGd1tMvBUmVP_W87vPuuSJjiz722C-EB98UEDNUkdJ1JXIhBsqjU0NexNjaww4f2wD9OM0oBtI7iwFX8_smA_Sr5VZu4UMvD7-M3ECOyKpUcJyBzRAvjYNTyPTgvf-gxYg7P4TB66f-w-dQbcpuQzyig=w400-h300" width="400" /></a>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">
What you get!<br />
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p style="text-align: left;">
My Zorro arrived direct from China in a cute little package. Inside were the
following:
</p>
<div>
<ul>
<li>Zorro transmitter with internal '4-in-1' MPM</li>
<li>USB cable (USB-A to USB-C)</li>
<li>Velcro strap for external battery</li>
<li>Screen protector</li>
<li>A5 leaflet </li>
<li>2 x 18350 batteries</li>
<li>
1 meter cable and clip for external battery (also available as an extra)
</li>
</ul>
<p style="text-align: left;">
The last two items are not always supplied with newer sets.
</p>
<div></div>
<h2 style="text-align: left;">Build quality and general ergonomics</h2>
</div>
<div>
<p style="text-align: left;">
The Zorro is the first 'game console' style transmitter that I've used, and
I have to say it feels very comfortable in the hand.
</p>
<p style="text-align: left;">
Stick spacing is a generous 90mm so it doesn't feel cramped (one of the
weaker points the TX12), and the transmitter is perfectly balanced when
hanging from a neck strap.
</p>
<p style="text-align: left;">
Build quality is rather good for a budget set. Most of the shell is satin
black, while the battery covers have a luxurious rubberised coating.
</p>
<div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiiIGWO3xKqGHhHRy_opVSE3-IGhOvFXswBHEg0ZNmeyzsuWlcMFF1DmA6fAsh_yUi4u7eNU2Gu4GbDHdcp4zLs91d5xI-INgEdqQTSpOAnZnCUJxhSQ9F5L08AoQ78txU19iCZRhiGtz1DX5yINqz8-GaukM-YKaRRH6v_7_2HmPD9MLmBa0upg-fMHA=s2048" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="RadioMaster Zorro" border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiiIGWO3xKqGHhHRy_opVSE3-IGhOvFXswBHEg0ZNmeyzsuWlcMFF1DmA6fAsh_yUi4u7eNU2Gu4GbDHdcp4zLs91d5xI-INgEdqQTSpOAnZnCUJxhSQ9F5L08AoQ78txU19iCZRhiGtz1DX5yINqz8-GaukM-YKaRRH6v_7_2HmPD9MLmBa0upg-fMHA=w400-h300" width="400" /></a>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">
RadioMaster Zorro
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<div></div>
<div><br /></div>
</div>
<h2 style="text-align: left;">Switches and pots</h2>
<div>
<p>
The Zorro is well equipped with switches and pots. That said, the switches
are quite short and not as easy to operate as those on a 'full-size' set
like the TX16S.
</p>
<p>
The layout is okay, except for the front 3-pos switches which - as a
thumber - I fnd a little awkward to operate.
</p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEidfwZ3dymyzrVCQEbJJPJnEaLhi1QaoFinXVZEhUp-pmxWX3cUFNErODeMmFJ4YlzS2ynZiOMYWbZB5PIHzSUq-ghefB9IXi6uwHh4fGwuNaoD6ojsCwvWC-Neh7twML1vVHb8ir1c3jSJu3O2i8yMuRafrM5YnrC6cs1AWf8Hc6_02h5PZOTvja_igw=s2048" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEidfwZ3dymyzrVCQEbJJPJnEaLhi1QaoFinXVZEhUp-pmxWX3cUFNErODeMmFJ4YlzS2ynZiOMYWbZB5PIHzSUq-ghefB9IXi6uwHh4fGwuNaoD6ojsCwvWC-Neh7twML1vVHb8ir1c3jSJu3O2i8yMuRafrM5YnrC6cs1AWf8Hc6_02h5PZOTvja_igw=w400-h300" width="400" /></a>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">
Switches and pots
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>
The pots at the top are better described as ‘rollers’. The centre position
is marked, but there is no centre detent. I found them okay for camber
control, however I would be less inclined to use them for throttle
control.
</p>
<p>
The top-mounted momentary buttons are good as DLG launch buttons. The
buttons at the rear are flush with the surface, and require a more
deliberate action.
</p>
<h2 style="text-align: left;">Antenna</h2>
<p>
The antenna is hinged. When not in use, it can be parked along the top of
the case. The exposed portion is noticably shorter than the one on my
TX16S.
</p>
<h3></h3>
<h2 style="font-size: medium; font-weight: 400;"><br /></h2>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiPqoQiwsFOeHqYclhYPX_U46-2g3x9-BiwkwOGotKD79bQev9Ay625GLBdAZfi-a2SB_1gg5uoNCXepmYFn7MF5FqftED-Bm1r1uzqsPlNt7tGhbinipFG_1tS5vUKyl-lm75AT04kGLB2tpLZi1GoGzggtslIdvdrcNyNlvlgAsJwIxNrfmEvlCiwEA=s2048" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiPqoQiwsFOeHqYclhYPX_U46-2g3x9-BiwkwOGotKD79bQev9Ay625GLBdAZfi-a2SB_1gg5uoNCXepmYFn7MF5FqftED-Bm1r1uzqsPlNt7tGhbinipFG_1tS5vUKyl-lm75AT04kGLB2tpLZi1GoGzggtslIdvdrcNyNlvlgAsJwIxNrfmEvlCiwEA=w400-h300" width="400" /></a>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">
2.4 GHz Antenna
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">
<tbody>
<tr></tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p></p>
<p></p>
<p></p>
<h2>
Gimbals
</h2>
</div>
<p>The gimbals have Hall sensors, which is nice to see on a budget radio.</p>
<p>
Spring tension out of the box was too strong for me. Once adjusted, however,
the gimbals feel very nice. They're well positioned too - as a thumber, I
have no trouble reaching the extremes of travel.
</p>
<p style="text-align: left;">
The stick shafts have M3 threads. The stick tops are plastic and rather
skinny, and I've replaced them with castellated metal tops.
</p>
<p>
Each gimbal has a pair of adjuster screws, accessible via holes in the back
of the case. These adjust the vertical (throttle/elevator) axes only. The
right hand adjuster of each pair is for the self-centring spring - clockwise
to disengage for throttle operation. The left hand adjuster is for the
friction strap (rather misleadingly referred to as 'spring tension' in the
graphic below).
</p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEi8wUz-Ss9C1VZ5CdsezYMpCeoNDSbQ2qAceHlUGCPOE761iv3wOISzH1VQ6MpRqwy4xQ5CNMX1idXz5CHEsW9zAlSYe_2ItKHUmEDDyewtMSIjosH6Hu9kcEKD2gmT3__dqn-A3QDvaTUsBV8e2EDPP0asvjICCsCgfTMgwdNOMGHZ6rFB96axehX0Bg=s600" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="399" data-original-width="600" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEi8wUz-Ss9C1VZ5CdsezYMpCeoNDSbQ2qAceHlUGCPOE761iv3wOISzH1VQ6MpRqwy4xQ5CNMX1idXz5CHEsW9zAlSYe_2ItKHUmEDDyewtMSIjosH6Hu9kcEKD2gmT3__dqn-A3QDvaTUsBV8e2EDPP0asvjICCsCgfTMgwdNOMGHZ6rFB96axehX0Bg=w400-h266" width="400" /></a>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">
Mode 1/2 switching adjustments
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p style="text-align: left;">
In addition to the rear adjusters, there are two more at the front. These
are for setting vertical travel limits - the gimbals must be recalibrated
after this adjustment.
</p>
<div><br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEi5RAk4Mid0CpxmOkpud3VnO15QDMQB8vOOSameOyhx3oBC-QHY2KVhdZmM9_lXE6xRX2Y_vmz3ifGShkVOToJiXoqx94fD2mfl4yXsG5wqLniwPmkO_926vqFFavxD018D8nIFylLyAZTMBAZu0QLiGc2fCAUEUm_v6n3GnGe_Ix056rPWWm_JeDdpTA=s593" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="400" data-original-width="593" height="270" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEi5RAk4Mid0CpxmOkpud3VnO15QDMQB8vOOSameOyhx3oBC-QHY2KVhdZmM9_lXE6xRX2Y_vmz3ifGShkVOToJiXoqx94fD2mfl4yXsG5wqLniwPmkO_926vqFFavxD018D8nIFylLyAZTMBAZu0QLiGc2fCAUEUm_v6n3GnGe_Ix056rPWWm_JeDdpTA=w400-h270" width="400" /></a>
</div>
<div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><h3 style="text-align: left;">Adjusting stick tension</h3><p>There are no external adjusters for spring tension -
you have to open the case first. Moreover, to adjust the vertical (elevator)
tensioner you also have to release the main board. </p><p>Before attempting this, I
would recommend watching the video linked at the end, which explains the
procedure.</p>
<h2 style="text-align: left;">Light and sound</h2>
<p>
The 128 x 64 pixel monochrome LCD screen is generously sized, with good
contrast. If I was to nitpick, it's a little slow to refresh leading to some
tearing during transitions.
</p>
<p>Sound through the single speaker is clear, with adequate volume.</p>
<p><br /></p>
<div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEh7IFh1ufoe_HRakJrh0Krt12C4Xgs5wz8BdKvjobbeS9Th3pu2OvZ23W-e_mx413tqecEUWQ6MR07geiLj9M5dzxehI8aAXx2EbCPIY5Zj1oOgQ64k1LwSX9vtjwZhftOW5wKOwD2oK9KVvcgOw7vQtPCk7WZyBnCcASfyIO_P5iIXII0gl5OmRhJt6Q" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEh7IFh1ufoe_HRakJrh0Krt12C4Xgs5wz8BdKvjobbeS9Th3pu2OvZ23W-e_mx413tqecEUWQ6MR07geiLj9M5dzxehI8aAXx2EbCPIY5Zj1oOgQ64k1LwSX9vtjwZhftOW5wKOwD2oK9KVvcgOw7vQtPCk7WZyBnCcASfyIO_P5iIXII0gl5OmRhJt6Q=w400-h300" width="400" /></a>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">
Size comparison with TX16S<br />
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<br /><br /><br />
</div>
<h2 style="text-align: left;">Programming controls</h2>
<p>
The programming controls follow the usual RadioMaster convention, including
their signature double PAGE keys (for forward and back), and a nicely
weighted click-roller. All keys have a nice positive action.
</p>
<p>
If I have one criticism about this layout, it's the location of the RTN
(cancel) key at the top of the left. Even after many hours I find
myself hitting the RTN key instead of PAGE. Also, the legends are recessed,
and not so easy to read in poor light.
</p>
<p></p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhJ6_Nb6WlKF43iESFOQcky8oD9IlVM8TV5Nselm2hGCZ9tPY2gHZDVBA3Jes9m1rLP4ljYiwvvFY6IHIExMPSRYM3TyMa_12vTBrVtdrldvNYNkSKdcQ6uw-j_i8MhmI7Vz3Blie1X4WvvsiIDJ2B8R5U_yDLPRHI8UXbEDY3OAk9f6_ba7jf4ngoPiw" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" data-original-height="494" data-original-width="1433" height="138" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhJ6_Nb6WlKF43iESFOQcky8oD9IlVM8TV5Nselm2hGCZ9tPY2gHZDVBA3Jes9m1rLP4ljYiwvvFY6IHIExMPSRYM3TyMa_12vTBrVtdrldvNYNkSKdcQ6uw-j_i8MhmI7Vz3Blie1X4WvvsiIDJ2B8R5U_yDLPRHI8UXbEDY3OAk9f6_ba7jf4ngoPiw=w400-h138" width="400" /></a>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">
Programming buttons
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h2 style="text-align: left;">RF options</h2>
<p>The Zorro is available with a choice of three RF modules:</p>
<h3>
<ul style="font-size: medium;">
<li>
MPM / CC2500<span style="font-weight: 400;">: supports ACCST, HOTT and some others.</span>
</li>
<li>
MPM / 4-in-1<span style="font-weight: 400;">: as above, plus DSM-2, DSMX, SFHSS, M-LINK and others.</span>
</li>
<li>
ELRS<span style="font-weight: 400;">: long range 2.4 GHz protocol.</span>
</li>
</ul>
<p style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: medium;">There is also a bay for a 'nano' style external module.</span></span>
</p>
MPM
</h3>
<div>
<p style="text-align: left;">
The MPM uses well proven open source firmware. It emulates a number of
standard protocols, making the Zorro compatible with a wide range of
receivers. All the main emulations including Spektrum, ACCST are
generally considered to be highly robust - I've certainly not had any
issues using ACCST.
</p>
</div>
<div>
<h3 style="text-align: left;">FrSky protocols</h3>
<p style="text-align: left;">
If you use FrSky ACCST receivers then you’ll love the MPMs’ capabilities!
Both versions of the MPM support D8, D16 v1/v2.1, LBT and FCC.
</p>
<p style="text-align: left;">
The nice thing is that the protocol can be set individually for each
model. This is far more flexible than FrSky's own transmitters where the
protocol is set in the firmware and must be used across all your models.
</p>
<p style="text-align: left;">
Note however that the MPM does not support the newer ACCESS protocol.
</p>
</div>
<h3 style="text-align: left;">MPM frequency tuning </h3>
<div>
If using CC2500 protocols such as FrSky ACCST, the MPM must be tuned to the
receiver. It's a two minute job, and can be done indoors.
</div>
<div><br /></div>
<h3>
<div style="font-size: medium; font-weight: 400;"><br /></div>
<div style="font-size: medium; font-weight: 400;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEg7u0zJFt5F7ZlhpnHGjlI65ogLpK1w-FlPYViuqx2leZkAhX9cktreK8BB8nZg9CcJp-U8ufn1M1-yEAUTuQmGZXikVuuMxuEI5-5zmN_otuBXmM28hSVH-g2RlJKgx_te4ei3jRkxwqf9veL9u8_j1gZwlktzWx3hje-BHfm_JH-9g9iCJ6K_b4E-CQ" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" data-original-height="183" data-original-width="266" height="220" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEg7u0zJFt5F7ZlhpnHGjlI65ogLpK1w-FlPYViuqx2leZkAhX9cktreK8BB8nZg9CcJp-U8ufn1M1-yEAUTuQmGZXikVuuMxuEI5-5zmN_otuBXmM28hSVH-g2RlJKgx_te4ei3jRkxwqf9veL9u8_j1gZwlktzWx3hje-BHfm_JH-9g9iCJ6K_b4E-CQ" width="320" /></a>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">
MPM with Spektrum DSM2 selected
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
</div>
<div style="font-size: medium; font-weight: 400;"><br /></div>
<div style="font-size: medium; font-weight: 400;">
<h3 style="text-align: left;">
'Capture' cloning of DSM and ACCST
</h3>
<p style="text-align: left;">
The MPMs offer a 'clone' facility, whereby the MPM can capture the
global ID of another transmitter running DSM or ACCST.
</p>
<p style="text-align: left;">
This is done by binding the MPM in the special 'RxClone' mode. Once the
GUID has been captured, the MPM is able to mimic the source tx. This
means you can swap between the Zorro and another DSM or ACCST
transmitter, <i>without the need to rebind</i><span>! </span>Very useful when migrating from a DSM or ACCST
transmitter.
</p>
<div><br /></div>
<div><br /></div>
<div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEioKhWU4DwqYHag4ocVfD8WnIO4kDIWR419tGx2DHBFlIVl_82QTBPN9wAbpMeSk1mPhTmi2SG6mwOf9ZY20uY57I45cp-mNmpQ923m7DdQd4Yd4ccJ84TFvrmUkjAEpFpTzxHSPuHJrJhpq1KXq087JGKAg8seFxIdZTzlV3xIOR5kPU6DJveAhvE58Q" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" data-original-height="183" data-original-width="270" height="217" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEioKhWU4DwqYHag4ocVfD8WnIO4kDIWR419tGx2DHBFlIVl_82QTBPN9wAbpMeSk1mPhTmi2SG6mwOf9ZY20uY57I45cp-mNmpQ923m7DdQd4Yd4ccJ84TFvrmUkjAEpFpTzxHSPuHJrJhpq1KXq087JGKAg8seFxIdZTzlV3xIOR5kPU6DJveAhvE58Q" width="320" /></a>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">
MPM with FrSky D16 in 'cloned' mode
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
</div>
</div>
<div style="font-size: medium; font-weight: 400;">
<div><br /></div>
<h3 style="text-align: left;">Hardware cloning </h3>
<p style="text-align: left;">
It's also possible to do a hardware clone of a second MPM. This allows
you to swap with another MPM-equipped transmitter <i>without the need to rebind or capture signatures</i>, and <i>regardless of protocol</i>. (Note that the second
transmitter must have an MPM - hardware cloning is not possible with a
non-MPM transmitter.)
</p>
<p style="text-align: left;">
To do a hardware clone, you run the MultiConfig script on the
transmitter with the source MPM and make a note of two global ids. Then
run the script on the second transmitter, copying and saving
the global ids to the second MPM.
</p>
<p style="text-align: left;">
The MultiConfig script also allows you to reset the global ids to their
original values. This should always be done before passing your
transmitter on to a new owner.
</p>
<h3 style="text-align: left;">Spectrum analyser</h3>
<p style="text-align: left;">
The MPM also provides a spectrum analyser function, accessible from the
Tools menu of Open/EdgeTX.
</p>
<h3 style="text-align: left;">ELRS module</h3>
<p style="text-align: left;">
The 2.4 GHz ELRS version offers higher range compared with regular 2.4
GHz protocols. However it suffers from reduced resolution, especially on
channels 5 and above. It's targeted primarily at drone pilots, so
I won't consider it further here.
</p>
<p style="text-align: left;">
[<i>edit: </i>ELRS v3 has high resolution modes for the high channels,
and is showing promise for PWM servo and LoS applications].
</p>
</div>
</h3>
<h2 style="text-align: left;">Internals </h2>
<p>
Opening the case involves undoing eight small self tappers, pulling the back
off, and carefully disconnecting two cables from the batteries.
</p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgQ_LhdkDEDkaHOHB8YhhOywO5WenL2QwOcVVAJm7CIzCQoimJct3rufaNGicEyizEeLbrJHKhA0pkw1iyMEElAIh_SA6toPEcE03_QNOhCjkcFnTpv65oNoczaDIaDZP3HDa9syMky-O_ADbA5j6eoyp5t3Avd1soXjxlyS0vyiWQUj3YcQ-lrmCiAQw=s2048" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgQ_LhdkDEDkaHOHB8YhhOywO5WenL2QwOcVVAJm7CIzCQoimJct3rufaNGicEyizEeLbrJHKhA0pkw1iyMEElAIh_SA6toPEcE03_QNOhCjkcFnTpv65oNoczaDIaDZP3HDa9syMky-O_ADbA5j6eoyp5t3Avd1soXjxlyS0vyiWQUj3YcQ-lrmCiAQw=w400-h300" width="400" /></a>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">
Internals<br /><br />
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>
The internal components are quite densely packed, yet everything is neatly
organised. The solder joints at the switches and gimbals are well
supported.
</p>
<p>The RF board is hidden underneath the main board.</p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgiI2sEGBKAPQVGenACzyY6YhqNURBhcax2mZ-b-EYyQU4x_B9hXa9XgvfewVIoWsnT-b1CN6WL_L6dFIQTCl-wUbzQj6r5Gj8D1aXHiP5bEfh_mJT2skLsUWlu7_K2V7LA1TUmE3D5LKy0vyWoQrBHLoqi8Pu7aVaKTyOFGqHtTiQBQg-Fnt_EH8grnw=s2048" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgiI2sEGBKAPQVGenACzyY6YhqNURBhcax2mZ-b-EYyQU4x_B9hXa9XgvfewVIoWsnT-b1CN6WL_L6dFIQTCl-wUbzQj6r5Gj8D1aXHiP5bEfh_mJT2skLsUWlu7_K2V7LA1TUmE3D5LKy0vyWoQrBHLoqi8Pu7aVaKTyOFGqHtTiQBQg-Fnt_EH8grnw=w400-h300" width="400" /></a>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">
Good support for soldered joints<br /><br />
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h2 style="text-align: left;">Hardware calibration</h2>
<p>
On both sets I've used, one of the analog controls only worked over half its
travel. Fortunately it was just due to a lack of calibration at the factory.
As good practice, I would recommend checking calibration as one of the first
tasks with a new set. (Go to the System/Hardware menu, scroll to the bottom
and select 'Anas'. Each analog control should span -100/0/100.)
</p>
<h2 style="text-align: left;">Operating system</h2>
<p style="text-align: left;">
The Zorro can run either OpenTX or EdgeTX. Both systems have the low-res
version of the interface, where some menus are split into sub-menus. This
makes navigation less convenient compared with radios with higher res
screens.
</p>
<p style="text-align: left;">
My Zorro came with EdgeTX 2.6.0 installed. Unfortunately my first attempt at
migrating my models from my TX16S (running OpenTX) didn't go well due to
bugs in EdgeTX.
</p>
<p style="text-align: left;">
Flashing OpenTX 2.3.15 solved the problem, and this is the operating system
which I would recommend if using the 4-in-1 module. (<i>Tip</i>: if the
scroll wheel works in reverse, you can correct this in system settings.)
</p>
<p style="text-align: left;">
<i>Edit: </i>Since writing the review, EdgeTX 2.7 has been released.
This version is more stable, though there are still a few annoying bugs.
</p>
<div><br /></div>
<div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEj_UMNCU7orlfPezu2W2oGRXCnG3GFo4wgLTQ0IeUxCXVzt0XdymjratA8yx0QB9jbomZirajjK8MivlGKBDZy26LKFw7S8VgZgH4CAdCgqyetOi4NzY0P_Nh109X2KtNHA74ZwoNapqaP-qsC0ZbEp3xWnfVaRl_-cvu4fZ7axKCW7a-PqjRqhsQFTGw" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" data-original-height="183" data-original-width="269" height="218" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEj_UMNCU7orlfPezu2W2oGRXCnG3GFo4wgLTQ0IeUxCXVzt0XdymjratA8yx0QB9jbomZirajjK8MivlGKBDZy26LKFw7S8VgZgH4CAdCgqyetOi4NzY0P_Nh109X2KtNHA74ZwoNapqaP-qsC0ZbEp3xWnfVaRl_-cvu4fZ7axKCW7a-PqjRqhsQFTGw" width="320" /></a>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">
Nightly build of OpenTX 2.3.15. <br />Production version of 2.3.15
is author's choice.
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<br />
<h2 style="text-align: left;">Connectivity</h2>
</div>
<div>
<div>
The Zorro is well connected to the outside world, via three groups of
ports - see photos below:
</div>
<div><br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgO-2DZASOZ5tKcv3bRxWuoacz5fFQDMH2ubNYRpM4Dfu7HouFn1K-4quB5a_3oKXgae8LCO-nGYNm0FGfe681qH_IzHXChFo9duWMWR0IcYLF2kI9vj9z5lgk16qKV6mt1-BiJsx05rLdOT22gLYSDRf4X4tHhzmBJl0EhX0ZYqkfTJ60pBWJXxL1mTQ=s2048" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgO-2DZASOZ5tKcv3bRxWuoacz5fFQDMH2ubNYRpM4Dfu7HouFn1K-4quB5a_3oKXgae8LCO-nGYNm0FGfe681qH_IzHXChFo9duWMWR0IcYLF2kI9vj9z5lgk16qKV6mt1-BiJsx05rLdOT22gLYSDRf4X4tHhzmBJl0EhX0ZYqkfTJ60pBWJXxL1mTQ=w400-h300" width="400" /></a>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">
TOP FLAP:<br />Anticlockwise from top left: 3.5 mm headphone
jack,<br />micro SD card, USB-C/data,<br />DSC trainer
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<br />
<div><br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhkleCVUiqyAknYWHjawjQnUiBAVXLgWl0P6SOUyPF85zUaqqGlIxuI-EPSA6KepOhdesfK6bM6oRXU67q261k9Wjatyq7J0hLfsjZ5r1vK4NmUJPZZT0PEePqVWOc7eo3QZ7gGutoB1zwvKVNLC9HDMIkBWemFD8-UHFqhlXEZ1A5DXFgC7Aph4HkHsw=s2048" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhkleCVUiqyAknYWHjawjQnUiBAVXLgWl0P6SOUyPF85zUaqqGlIxuI-EPSA6KepOhdesfK6bM6oRXU67q261k9Wjatyq7J0hLfsjZ5r1vK4NmUJPZZT0PEePqVWOc7eo3QZ7gGutoB1zwvKVNLC9HDMIkBWemFD8-UHFqhlXEZ1A5DXFgC7Aph4HkHsw=w400-h300" width="400" /></a>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">
BOTTOM FLAP<br />External 2S battery port<br />USB-C charger part
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgbvkovRgO3JAal2EPMk15-fQulgQ1bmz5Sh8f8MYbwu7SipSKABeAvibrJbiUvw0-wRcOQKUiQeJ9ckXlMswPb-CaZPMAVBTXuR9xUKRfUtlPvSeM6du-L5BEQn6g8D5vP4te6L9gvc_RiXupVaQjAx-PT53X_AcmegdX3MC-zZRiY91bCXQ-lmnZoVA=s2048" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgbvkovRgO3JAal2EPMk15-fQulgQ1bmz5Sh8f8MYbwu7SipSKABeAvibrJbiUvw0-wRcOQKUiQeJ9ckXlMswPb-CaZPMAVBTXuR9xUKRfUtlPvSeM6du-L5BEQn6g8D5vP4te6L9gvc_RiXupVaQjAx-PT53X_AcmegdX3MC-zZRiY91bCXQ-lmnZoVA=w400-h300" width="400" /></a>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">
External module bay for Crossfire, ELRS etc.
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<div><br /></div>
</div>
<h2 style="text-align: left;">Batteries and charging</h2>
<p>
There are two LiIon batteries, one in each grip. In order to keep the Zorro
compact, RadioMaster have had to compromise a little - each battery is 18350
size for a nominal capacity of just 900 mAh. Compare this with TX12
and TX16 which take 2 x 18650 cells with a typical capacity of 2500
mAh.
</p>
<p>
In terms of operating time, I've seen four hours quoted for the MPM
versions. The ELRS version draws more current - expect around two hours
depending on power output.
</p>
<p>
Charging is easy via the USB charging port... connect the cable, wait for
the LED indicator to go out... done! The rubber flap covering the charging
port is a little fiddly, but it does click into place with a little coaxing.
</p>
<p><br /></p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhDrFVh5Wl6W6-yPWxBoJJWPjv4hK9J3HrXz1aHGrXgY1gLkxZQOtnLQ6fogJ0JL8Ok8S39FYaQXwn9lSMpm-eLK4GxWbbShZTUip_F7b5OuzDrNRkuYeEe0-LDtQyQnovJukq9Z1Su25o0DJFz9FweRReGZ1dbzxddKL0Wx9vf0nxfTBQSPgwHFnZCWw=s2048" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhDrFVh5Wl6W6-yPWxBoJJWPjv4hK9J3HrXz1aHGrXgY1gLkxZQOtnLQ6fogJ0JL8Ok8S39FYaQXwn9lSMpm-eLK4GxWbbShZTUip_F7b5OuzDrNRkuYeEe0-LDtQyQnovJukq9Z1Su25o0DJFz9FweRReGZ1dbzxddKL0Wx9vf0nxfTBQSPgwHFnZCWw=w400-h300" width="400" /></a>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">
The Zorro takes two 18350 batteries
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p><br /></p>
<h3 style="text-align: left;">Extending the operating time</h3>
<p>
I find the supplied 18350's perfectly sufficient. However, there are ways to
extend the operating time.
</p>
<p>
First, an external 2S 18650 pack can be fitted under the unit, using strips
of Velcro (supplied). Connection is via the balancer port at the bottom of
the unit. Although not stated in the manual, reports indicate that the
internal batteries can co-exist with an external power source - current is
drawn from the source with higher voltage.
</p>
<p>
Alternatively, you can connect an external battery via a special one-meter
cable. The benefit of this method is that there's no limit to the size of
battery. One end of the cable connects to the battery via an XT30 connector;
the other end plugs into the balancer port. The cable is secured to the
transmitter via a plastic clip. My first Zorro was provided with the cable,
but it was absent in the second, however it is available as an extra.
</p>
<p>
The third method is simply to carry a spare pair of 18350's. While it may
seem the obvious approach, removing then replacing the battery cover is
rather awkward. You have to squeeze the sides and push down firmly, while
sliding into place. If you get it wrong, the covers don't align with the
body, and can slide off easily. My advice would be to fit the batteries, and
leave them!
</p>
<h2 style="text-align: left;">Flight tests</h2>
<p>
The first test was a demanding one - to control my number one F3F
competition model, a Pike Precision 2 with a FrSky RX6R receiver. The Zorro
was running my <a href="https://rc-soar.com/opentx/setups/f3f/index.htm">F3F setup</a> and <a href="https://rc-soar.com/opentx/lua/adaptivetrim/index.htm">crow aware trim script</a>.
</p>
<p>
No problems were experienced. This is pretty awesome - we're talking about
functionality on an £80 radio which will out-perform a £1000 plus Jeti.
Would I routinely use the Zorro for this? Well no - the TX16S is more
comfortable, but what the heck, it was fun - and a talking point on the
slope.
</p>
<div>
The second test was with my Topsky DLG with FrSky G-RX6 receiver with
integrated barometer sensor. I'll make it short - the Zorro is an excellent
transmitter for DLG, and has replaced my X9D Plus in that role.
</div>
<div><br /></div>
<div>
During testing I did experience more 'RSSI low' warnings compared with I
would expect with, say, the TX12 or TX16S. Whether this was due to sample
variation, or a design compromise I don't know - I suspect the former.
</div>
<div><br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjRY-OdTPXUPaBDI8AJKTORRUGN44d50DIJNZfOLjyUdCg6gWmLPkgfmiPrqlv6AlK7v_sT-1oG4LQf0GqJQe9uFzkHaFgrbUkokmbW4QHY-j7m3wdvtAp1tWa-IuNTt07uT1nRH-h38-GHkpUbvX1e5BPJ139KgiAlHR8Vg7wBwBBNmOxlwcUJKaKwqA=s3836" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2788" data-original-width="3836" height="291" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjRY-OdTPXUPaBDI8AJKTORRUGN44d50DIJNZfOLjyUdCg6gWmLPkgfmiPrqlv6AlK7v_sT-1oG4LQf0GqJQe9uFzkHaFgrbUkokmbW4QHY-j7m3wdvtAp1tWa-IuNTt07uT1nRH-h38-GHkpUbvX1e5BPJ139KgiAlHR8Vg7wBwBBNmOxlwcUJKaKwqA=w400-h291" width="400" /></a>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">
Zorro showing crow aware trim script.<br />Author's Pike Precision 2
in the background.<br /><br />
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h2 style="text-align: left;">Verdict</h2>
<p>
Despite some compromises due to its small size, I really like the Zorro. It
has a certain charm. If it were a car, it might be a 'premium mini SUV'.
</p>
<p>
The Zorro is more comfortable to hold than the TX12, has more controls, and
a better screen position. However the TX12 uses larger 18650 batteries.
Also, the Zorro accepts nano modules, while the TX12 supports the older and
larger JR-style modules.
</p>
<p>To sum up:</p>
<p>Pros:</p>
<p></p>
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li>Comfortable in the hand</li>
<li>Excellent support for different RF protocols (4-in-1 version)</li>
<li>Large, high mounted screen</li>
<li>Gimbals</li>
<li>DLG-friendly controls. </li>
</ul>
<p></p>
<div>Cons:</div>
<div>
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li>Switches are a little fiddly</li>
<li>Awkward adjustment of spring tension</li>
<li>Tricky battery covers</li>
<li>Lower range than TX16S (may just be an issue with my unit)</li>
</ul>
</div>
<p style="text-align: left;">
All in all, the Zorro pushes the boundaries of what's possible with a small
transmitter. It's a fine choice for pilots who fly a mixture of models, like
DLG, drones and slope soarers - and who like to travel light.
</p>
</div>
<h2 style="text-align: left;">Links</h2>
<div>
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li>
<a href="https://www.radiomasterrc.com/">RadioMaster</a> -
RadioMaster's web site
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://github.com/pascallanger/DIY-Multiprotocol-TX-Module">MPM project</a> - multiprotocol module project
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://rc-soar.com/opentx/">OpenTX Clinic</a> - Tutorials
and templates for OpenTX and EdgeTX
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://rc-soar.blogspot.com/2020/12/radiomaster-tx12-mini-marvel.html">RadioMaster TX12 review</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://rc-soar.blogspot.com/2020/07/can-radiomaster-tx16s-crush-my-x9d-plus.html">RadioMaster TX16S review</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://youtu.be/bCTgSrbV9MA">Zorro gimbal adjustments</a> -
video
</li>
</ul>
</div>
<blockquote style="background-color: lightgrey; margin: 1em; padding: 1em;">
<i>Full disclosure - RadioMaster provided me with a Zorro free of charge to
evaluate and keep. RM did not seek or receive access to this review prior to
publication, and all opinions are my own. </i>
</blockquote>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com8London, UK51.5072178 -0.127586223.196983963821154 -35.2838362 79.817451636178845 35.0286638tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6178637817134212554.post-80301328402976631312022-01-11T00:12:00.130+00:002023-10-04T10:12:18.167+01:00Supertrim - a better interface for trimming crow brakes<p>In this article, I describe an improved user interface for trimming out crow brakes. It uses the standard features of OpenTX - no Lua script is required.</p><a name='more'></a><p></p><h2 style="text-align: left;">The two components of pitch trim</h2><p style="text-align: left;">Crow brakes are great for losing height. However they affect the trim of the model. Normally this manifests itself as a nose-up pitching moment which increases as crow is deployed. </p><p style="text-align: left;">To counteract this, we employ a crow-to-elevator mix, commonly know as <i>compensation</i>. So, on a model with crow brakes, there will be two components to pitch trim:</p><div><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>A constant offset, adjusted with the brakes off, using the <i>elevator </i>trim. </li><li>A crow-dependent compensation, adjusted with brakes fully deployed. The mix is typically adjusted using the <i>throttle</i> trim. <br /></li></ul><p style="text-align: left;">The problem is that we have two trim levers (elevator, throttle), both affecting the models pitch trim. It's easy to forget which one to use.</p></div><div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxVXuXzJtjiMTR_wuEEVZhwnY_qgQUNdTmCGuhroxSGaKSZF2oPo7WW_IEMyVutDBb9x9A4vL7Q2ejOV_2sOqEtQwWvOz9hyphenhyphen3Rjj4TTkrbcwYTxrjosijcjt223jWZhtm4X2q8ar8Q7vO3//" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" data-original-height="675" data-original-width="1016" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxVXuXzJtjiMTR_wuEEVZhwnY_qgQUNdTmCGuhroxSGaKSZF2oPo7WW_IEMyVutDBb9x9A4vL7Q2ejOV_2sOqEtQwWvOz9hyphenhyphen3Rjj4TTkrbcwYTxrjosijcjt223jWZhtm4X2q8ar8Q7vO3//" width="320" /></a></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><h2 style="text-align: left;">A better way: Supertrim </h2><p style="text-align: left;">With 'Supertrim <i>only the elevator trim is used</i>. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVYv_P6NsfybIt9QjrnVMHcujGQgvqZCgRcjCfCyEjLgkGRgolW-U66V1kXfcMF7gQniKpU4WWwgTqwDFsjrVCRLo6GxYNOMX_qu57_VMj5FU22CjTYkqfUQ9s-coXIfqV4sKUgNhzs6Pd//" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" data-original-height="675" data-original-width="1016" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVYv_P6NsfybIt9QjrnVMHcujGQgvqZCgRcjCfCyEjLgkGRgolW-U66V1kXfcMF7gQniKpU4WWwgTqwDFsjrVCRLo6GxYNOMX_qu57_VMj5FU22CjTYkqfUQ9s-coXIfqV4sKUgNhzs6Pd//" width="320" /></a></div></div><div><div><p style="text-align: left;">The function of the trim changes automatically:</p><ul><li>When brakes are off, adjusts the base trim</li><li>When brakes are deployed, it adjusts the crow compensation.</li></ul></div><p style="text-align: left;">The procedure for trimming is then very simple:</p></div><div><div><ol><li>Zero crow, adjust trim</li><li>Full crow, adjust trim</li></ol><div><p style="text-align: left;">Final tweaks can be made by editing a compensation curve.</p></div></div><h2 style="text-align: left;">How it works</h2></div><p style="text-align: left;">The OpenTX code is described, together with a demo file, in <a href="https://rc-soar.com/opentx/setups/supertrim/">OpenTX Clinic</a>.</p><h2 style="text-align: left;">Inclusion in Pro templates</h2></div><p style="text-align: left;">Supertrim has been flight tested on my Sting using a modified version of my F3F setup, and it works very well. It's not as flexible as my <a href="https://rc-soar.blogspot.com/2019/02/dynamic-trimming-of-compensation-curves.html">Crow aware adaptive trim</a> system, however the latter involves installing a Lua script.</p><p style="text-align: left;">Supertrim is implemented in my latest <a href="https://rc-soar.com/opentx/setups/dlg/">DLG</a>, <a href="https://rc-soar.com/opentx/setups/dlg6s/index.htm">DLG6S</a> and <a href="https://rc-soar.com/opentx/setups/f3f/index.htm">F3F </a>templates for OpenTX. Where possible, it will also be implemented in future versions of my other OpenTX templates.</p><p style="text-align: left;">[<i>edit 19 Feb 2022: I'm working on an F5K template, with Supertrim for both motor and brake compensation. It should be very easy to trim!]</i></p><div><br /></div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz4P1jkWnLJ1Zj8kS9FR3ZI3fNtdnC8UtYi-D__K_yE42zInk_OprDUMJh60JBkDZM9GqkO1W7UEG0zPtsGK5YZYdaPVCBmn-zOpfdicwldi28cii9DJ7NVZKklntLqShF76J2cAghENR_/s9999/PG097311_1600px.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" data-original-height="1026" data-original-width="1600" height="256" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz4P1jkWnLJ1Zj8kS9FR3ZI3fNtdnC8UtYi-D__K_yE42zInk_OprDUMJh60JBkDZM9GqkO1W7UEG0zPtsGK5YZYdaPVCBmn-zOpfdicwldi28cii9DJ7NVZKklntLqShF76J2cAghENR_/w400-h256/PG097311_1600px.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">After flight test of Supertrim, at Ivinghoe Beacon</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><br /></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6178637817134212554.post-29496770728126038072021-12-25T16:34:00.064+00:002023-08-14T15:09:14.826+01:00The best font for your CAA Operator ID<p>If there's one aspect of the UK drone laws which is particularly grating, it's the requirement to display your operator id on every model. To add insult to injury, it's now a whopping 19 characters!</p><p>There is something we can do though: make the actual label as small as possible...</p><p></p><span><a name='more'></a></span><h2 style="text-align: left;">It’s all about the font!</h2><p>The CAA rules state that the operator id must be <i>"</i><i>clear and in block capitals taller than 3mm</i>"... but - aha! - no mention of length. Obviously the narrower the font, the shorter the label. So the next question was: what is the narrowest font available?</p><p style="text-align: left;">Following a session playing with fonts on my Windows 10 machine, I found what I was looking for. It's a font called ‘<b>Gill Sans MT condensed</b>’. Using this font at 13.5 points, my CAA label is 3 mm hight, and just 33 mm long. It actually looks okay on the model (well, as okay as a CAA label can look...).</p><p style="text-align: left;">I've prepared a Microsoft Word file with the font embedded within it, which means it should show even if the font is not installed in your computer. </p><div><p style="text-align: left;">Here's a screenshot (scroll down further for the actual download link):</p></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRpfFQGLmpLhXXhI2EQJvDEEjQHBBmjgSbzXBrTNddhFhZmO-c4PY2XQM8eWAdyoAnfOPXg_4umrBArIVlx7CXMkXX7b38RGLc5TC22JogUNlngIuSqH_EVDkWBnDJ4JznTDuySeY-uwtu/s9999/2021-12-25_163956.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" data-original-height="986" data-original-width="708" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRpfFQGLmpLhXXhI2EQJvDEEjQHBBmjgSbzXBrTNddhFhZmO-c4PY2XQM8eWAdyoAnfOPXg_4umrBArIVlx7CXMkXX7b38RGLc5TC22JogUNlngIuSqH_EVDkWBnDJ4JznTDuySeY-uwtu/w459-h640/2021-12-25_163956.png" width="459" /></a></div><br /><p style="text-align: left;">The file is in .DOCX format, and can be downloaded from:</p><p style="text-align: left;"><a href="https://rc-soar.com/files/CAA_OpID/CAA-op-id-template.zip">https://rc-soar.com/files/CAA_OpID/CAA-op-id-template.zip</a> </p><p style="text-align: left;">If you've found a font which is even narrower and still legible, do leave a comment! </p></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6178637817134212554.post-51689056548131196602021-12-07T15:53:00.236+00:002023-08-06T00:33:23.914+01:00RadioMaster AG01 CNC gimbal - is it worth it?<p>The AG01 is a new, high-quality CNC gimbal for the TX16S transmitter. My TX16S came with version 1 gimbals, so I was very interested to try the AG01. Would it be easier to adjust? Would it deal with the drift issue? Would it improve my flying?</p><p>In this review I check out the AG01 in detail, so you can decide it it's worth the premium price!</p><p><span></span></p><a name='more'></a><p></p><p></p>
<blockquote style="background-color: lightgrey; padding: 1em;">
<i>Full disclosure - RadioMaster provided me with these units free of charge to evaluate and keep. RM did not seek or receive access to this review prior to publication, and all opinions are my own. </i></blockquote>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5Eqh75gSyRC5iJCoBPRmJ0-pQLGWuzwM4rX3OVadonQ8qnO3WwIsIMASjGk5l6Htew7eHus1xMlp2Yz-L7BvPYNMxfPIejahB7ou41wndyg0Ug-1fpIWsOXLTC7ysTP0dkpjB9wW62pD2/s999/PG096712_2048px.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5Eqh75gSyRC5iJCoBPRmJ0-pQLGWuzwM4rX3OVadonQ8qnO3WwIsIMASjGk5l6Htew7eHus1xMlp2Yz-L7BvPYNMxfPIejahB7ou41wndyg0Ug-1fpIWsOXLTC7ysTP0dkpjB9wW62pD2/w400-h300/PG096712_2048px.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><!--more--><p></p><h2 style="text-align: left;">Headline specs compared</h2><p style="text-align: left;">The AG01 gimbal features Hall sensors, 4 ball bearings, some CNC aluminium components. Unusually, some adjustments can be made from the front.</p><p style="text-align: left;">The version 1 gimbals originally fitted also have ball bearings and Hall sensors. However all components are plastic. All adjustments must be made from the back of the unit, which means opening up the transmitter case.</p><p style="text-align: left;"><i>[Edit: </i>Some versions of the TX16S and TX16S Mk II are offered with V4 gimbals. These are an all-plastic version of the AG01. They offer most of the benefits of the AG01 except for the CNC feel and premium appearance.]</p><h2 style="text-align: left;">Unboxing the AG01 gimbals</h2>
<p>Inside the package were a couple of smart little boxes:</p>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVzM_EuANkiMm7sTg_zEQ42BlX5LLlM6sQw5zbinzPGTZDsN-CRkuBs2B4oJrjmipuCQXj_KuUFePdtxYBa4BCWpiLiSUmYY1k7GpuuOlwm4PggpUcrarXSKQ1pz0E6BWMqs9_6wvPkIy5/s9999/PG096634_1600px.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVzM_EuANkiMm7sTg_zEQ42BlX5LLlM6sQw5zbinzPGTZDsN-CRkuBs2B4oJrjmipuCQXj_KuUFePdtxYBa4BCWpiLiSUmYY1k7GpuuOlwm4PggpUcrarXSKQ1pz0E6BWMqs9_6wvPkIy5/w400-h300/PG096634_1600px.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<p>Each box contains: one AG01 gimbal, a couple of pots marked ‘Lubricating oil’ and ‘Damping oil’, a pair of (soft) springs, and an Allen key. [<i>Note: </i>recent gimbals may be supplied without the oil.]</p>
<p></p>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAF-Aoj6xY-rDBoEfnNPIcHOY23pfQYUSHBj9-V7mJ4EE8XVEwj_zvsZb4dHoDVXacILO6h-HD8qf6j-ZtN1ccvSSSjEh_FulBhPr1UHtMwmrY7fliWFKs4qZoRd2jyDsJtRp5ZL5Ru7gt/s9999/PG096659_1600px.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAF-Aoj6xY-rDBoEfnNPIcHOY23pfQYUSHBj9-V7mJ4EE8XVEwj_zvsZb4dHoDVXacILO6h-HD8qf6j-ZtN1ccvSSSjEh_FulBhPr1UHtMwmrY7fliWFKs4qZoRd2jyDsJtRp5ZL5Ru7gt/w400-h300/PG096659_1600px.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><p style="text-align: left;">The 'damping oil' is highly viscous, and is for use with the throttle friction strap. The 'lubricating oil' is less viscous, and is for maintenance of the moving parts. Both oils are a translucent white.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhF73exlnrxU3VTdtMd9T08RFlpNMM4oJdcOLCUewj1bGMxmTq29rdipZ1Jy_blfHllm1pcg4aARzCS2100bvAy5ssVzS61DU1wx_tboGDYi4Z3FPMYRLqhnizpPaNrWxrEiZrU9niMIjQ4/s999/PG096677_1600px.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" data-original-height="833" data-original-width="1600" height="209" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhF73exlnrxU3VTdtMd9T08RFlpNMM4oJdcOLCUewj1bGMxmTq29rdipZ1Jy_blfHllm1pcg4aARzCS2100bvAy5ssVzS61DU1wx_tboGDYi4Z3FPMYRLqhnizpPaNrWxrEiZrU9niMIjQ4/w400-h209/PG096677_1600px.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /></div>
<p style="text-align: left;">Also included is an instruction sheet for adjusting the gimbal.</p>
<p></p><h2 style="text-align: left;">Style and construction </h2>
<p>The styling of the AG01 is rather striking! At first I thought it was too brash, but I've grown to like it.</p><p>The aluminium baseplate has a black anodised finish with nicely machined accents. There are five holes for making various adjustments.</p><p></p>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiL3L83xNd9oD_e1hwkA5HzTMBB0Qh1C4L97IxMenfgwsZtRpOhSUttDMapOqiuQTDUd8OUOQcoFjUhIUlf5lhecbY1nA8vDzsSPXnB8B84fKZW2zPyuUm_evGZe4ezl-II-n4pVIJinMlv/s9999/PG096725_1600px.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiL3L83xNd9oD_e1hwkA5HzTMBB0Qh1C4L97IxMenfgwsZtRpOhSUttDMapOqiuQTDUd8OUOQcoFjUhIUlf5lhecbY1nA8vDzsSPXnB8B84fKZW2zPyuUm_evGZe4ezl-II-n4pVIJinMlv/w400-h300/PG096725_1600px.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<p>The gimbal carrier is machined from aluminium. </p><p></p>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaXUm7QJsjOSdhaAsfEMyZPIEerrY35xJ2SuOMKim_0eHYEaPfNaGQQBOcL40-QAJLI7UIs5LmX2A04XWq0KyDaVBeLmbn5yKAsXBR2vw1e9TvCGZNqDQlhx6txNYqLxVFISReUhoWKNmz/s9999/PG096670_1600px.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" data-original-height="938" data-original-width="1600" height="235" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaXUm7QJsjOSdhaAsfEMyZPIEerrY35xJ2SuOMKim_0eHYEaPfNaGQQBOcL40-QAJLI7UIs5LmX2A04XWq0KyDaVBeLmbn5yKAsXBR2vw1e9TvCGZNqDQlhx6txNYqLxVFISReUhoWKNmz/w400-h235/PG096670_1600px.jpg" width="400" /></a></div></div><p>Perhaps surprisingly, the centring bars are made of a hard plastic (rather than metal as on the version 1 gimbals). Most of the smaller parts are also plastic. </p><p>Some users of the original gimbals reported finding cracks the ball-race retainers. This won't be an issue with the AG01's.</p>
<p>Together, the two AG01's contribute an extra 60 g to the weight of the TX16S.</p>
<h2 style="text-align: left;">Adjustability</h2><p>Now for a cool innovation: some adjustments can be made from the front. These adjustments are: </p><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Self centring spring tension</li><li>Vertical end stops</li><li>Engage/disengage spring on throttle axis</li></ul><p style="text-align: left;">Adjustments are made using the supplied Allen key. </p><div><br /></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIGCjnrt3Gw0yZ1AHXlAhLkSGBnrp4SiFdxqZvJPuBkKoOCkFRKgoHH8xAZFI84uguwRj-_EqqeqJD1F5WiNPfk8Fs7UW3SFviGzUdcHf2eNthFR3gW8OT5NJmBtAL-kW6GVT_fZar6G3n/s9999/PG096725_1600px-3.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIGCjnrt3Gw0yZ1AHXlAhLkSGBnrp4SiFdxqZvJPuBkKoOCkFRKgoHH8xAZFI84uguwRj-_EqqeqJD1F5WiNPfk8Fs7UW3SFviGzUdcHf2eNthFR3gW8OT5NJmBtAL-kW6GVT_fZar6G3n/w400-h300/PG096725_1600px-3.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div><br /></div><p style="text-align: left;">The friction and ratchet for the throttle cannot be adjusted from the front - for these, you have to open the case.</p></div><h2 style="text-align: left;">Changing the springs</h2><p>In addition to the standard springs already fitted, a pair of weaker springs is supplied. These have 17 coils compared with 14 on the standard springs.</p><p>The springs are a very tight fit over the tensioning hooks, and removing them is not as easy as it should be. Fortunately '3dxspin' on RCGroups has found a solution, which involves releasing the lower tensioning hooks. It involves a little dismantling - details in <a href="https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=48294855&postcount=13086">his post on RCG</a>.</p><p>Personally. I found the standard springs fine.</p><p></p><h2 style="text-align: left;">Installing the gimbals in the transmitter</h2><p>Installing the gimbals is not difficult, but does involve several steps. It's not explained in the instructions, so here's a quick rundown <i>(skip this section if you want to continue with the review)</i>:</p><p></p><ol style="text-align: left;"><li>First, disconnect and remove the battery, then pull off the side cheeks</li><li>Next, remove the back of the case (undo four screws at the back, and two on the antenna plate). </li><li>Disconnect the existing gimbals from the motherboard</li><li>Undo the four screws holding each gimbal to the front moulding, and remove the gimbals.</li><li>Lift off the metal faceplates from the inside. These are no longer needed.</li></ol><p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUia8gAnhDd6iPJJ1MKqCBLsbLvNZDq6bpvHOI7P1DGc-mluaJl-Lg-UD8xleyg_mYx3NgEFARNmzMOVyplO0rNHLb17jnwyG3J_TuXcA2JmKnbmdhA4xLC28In0ET2v78IKmgVjelplG1/s9999/PG096710_1600px.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUia8gAnhDd6iPJJ1MKqCBLsbLvNZDq6bpvHOI7P1DGc-mluaJl-Lg-UD8xleyg_mYx3NgEFARNmzMOVyplO0rNHLb17jnwyG3J_TuXcA2JmKnbmdhA4xLC28In0ET2v78IKmgVjelplG1/w400-h300/PG096710_1600px.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><ol start="6" style="text-align: left;"><li>Screw the new gimbals in place, taking care not to cross-thread the holes.</li><li>Finalise the tension of the ratchet and friction bands (they cannot be adjusted from the front). </li></ol><div><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhu19ZulBOu6fvIIgB2HaYrEgLfK47BZRKAA61cdW-YFSbavsSlllNFZ_XqrdBYzt1lKOdPKPoAzJP_Ichb43-Z4uSAwpenk9EuK1ptNwTniu9_R7UMDu5TUpNHE6Q8VB7gfYOyJPDx4Pz2/s9999/PG096700_1600px.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhu19ZulBOu6fvIIgB2HaYrEgLfK47BZRKAA61cdW-YFSbavsSlllNFZ_XqrdBYzt1lKOdPKPoAzJP_Ichb43-Z4uSAwpenk9EuK1ptNwTniu9_R7UMDu5TUpNHE6Q8VB7gfYOyJPDx4Pz2/w400-h300/PG096700_1600px.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><ol start="8" style="text-align: left;"><li>A little extra damping oil can now be added between the friction band and the moulding. Be careful, though, as only a tiny amount is needed. </li></ol></div><div><p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPZksLsGiVF1B02KdSunMrCJoBDiYm1cExbg2lana76NKudmfRW-NpIBGKDtmWbvObDgbMo7ubAV6Vdg-hemAyldGzz080A0S28Kekot6Jj55olEe2BzX3Av8JT6ymI8GAcHEvNGIOLUPb/s9999/PG096695_1600px.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" data-original-height="689" data-original-width="1600" height="173" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPZksLsGiVF1B02KdSunMrCJoBDiYm1cExbg2lana76NKudmfRW-NpIBGKDtmWbvObDgbMo7ubAV6Vdg-hemAyldGzz080A0S28Kekot6Jj55olEe2BzX3Av8JT6ymI8GAcHEvNGIOLUPb/w400-h173/PG096695_1600px.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p></p><p></p><ol start="9" style="text-align: left;"><li>Replace the back cover and side cheeks.</li><li>Reconnect the battery</li><li>Finally, calibrate via the OpenTX 'System' menu.</li></ol><h2 style="text-align: left;">Gimbal friction</h2><p>Friction shouldn’t be a problem on modern gimbals, nevertheless it can creep in due to poor assembly or lubrication. </p><p>To test for friction on the AG01s, I simply pulled the top of the stick with a very thin rubber band - this magnifies any stickiness very effectively. The results were as follows:</p><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Gimbal 1: no detectable friction on both axes.</li><li>Gimbal 2: very slight stickiness at one point in the x-axis, not noticeable in use. It doesn't affect centring.</li></ul><p style="text-align: left;">The old gimbals both had no detectable friction.</p><h2 style="text-align: left;">Stick feel</h2><p>Stick feel is subjective, but I'll do my best to describe it:</p><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>The stick centre position is nicely defined (though this will depend on spring tension).</li><li>Moving the stick, then releasing it, generates a brief well damped vibration. There's none of the irritating ‘ring’ that you get with other CNC gimbals.</li><li>Hitting the extremes produces a reassuring 'clack' – enough to announce that you’ve got CNC sticks, without being objectionable. </li></ul><p style="text-align: left;">All in all, I prefer the feel of the AG01's over the already good plastic units. They’re also nicer than the M9 gimbals on my FrSky X9D+.</p><p></p><p>Just one niggle: the ratchet on the throttle is rather weak - a trait shared with the old gimbals. At least the ratchet hasn't worn down like the old ones.</p><h2 style="text-align: left;">Accuracy/repeatability</h2><p>A decent gimbal should not drift with temperature. </p><p>To monitor centring accuracy, I use my <a href="https://rc-soar.com/opentx/lua/showitall/">ShowItAll</a> widget. This displays the stick values (-100% to +100% in 1% increments) on the main screen - not a lab test, but sufficient to indicate any major issue.</p><p>The good news is that there has been no measurable drift with the AG01’s – the centring was precise and repeatable both indoors and in the cold. The same applies to the extremes of movement.</p><p>In contrast, my old gimbals drifted by up to +/-1%, and some users have experienced more severe drift. </p><h2 style="text-align: left;">In use</h2><p>So far I’ve had three flying sessions with the AG01's, controlling my Pike Precision 2 slope racer in temperatures of around 9C - 11C. </p><p>After adjusting the tension (easily done on the field!), I quickly settled down to the new sticks. The first impression was one of silence from the servos, which suggests that electronics are less noisy than with the plastic units. </p><p><i>Edit: </i>since writing the above, I've had a lot more stick time, and the result is that I really like the AG01's - they just feel more refined all round.</p><p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEUoArPqTEsNnZQr8AP21tV7_5xQlqk2oT1v0BZAT70_s0PzRmoL1Ewvmi3I9xAcMBHzwsoJSRrH779q10LxjRe6oTeiiSbFr3bVwExUwGW3pFmDxjCYtsMWYfXlhC0m7eRD4DMvF_aMkr/s9999/PG096745_1600px.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" data-original-height="725" data-original-width="1600" height="181" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEUoArPqTEsNnZQr8AP21tV7_5xQlqk2oT1v0BZAT70_s0PzRmoL1Ewvmi3I9xAcMBHzwsoJSRrH779q10LxjRe6oTeiiSbFr3bVwExUwGW3pFmDxjCYtsMWYfXlhC0m7eRD4DMvF_aMkr/w400-h181/PG096745_1600px.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div><br /><div><h2 style="text-align: left;">Conclusion</h2><div><p>The AG01's play very nicely with the TX16S. They're smooth as silk, centre precisely - and they look gorgeous! </p><p>Compared with the outgoing gimbals, the AG01's have better build quality, more precise centring, zero drift, and the convenience of external adjustments. </p><p>Issues are minor: changing to the softer springs requires partial dismantling as described earlier. Secondly, the teeth on the throttle ratchet could be a bit deeper. Finally - and not so much a niggle as a wish - it would be nice to have external adjustments for the throttle straps.</p><p>At around £60 a pop, the AG01 isn't cheap, but it's not outrageous either. If you fly fast models, or models with large control surfaces, then the extra precision will be handy, especially if your current gimbals suffer from excessive drift. If you just want to upgrade your system, then you'll appreciate the feel and quality construction.</p><p>Either way, the AG01 is proving very popular, proving there's a healthy market for quality addons for the TX16S. For those who are wedded to OpenTX for competition flying, it's good to see a manufacturer catering for this end of the market.</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMuZMtigi7tHTPLM8QzuLm5oq1b65u0OlgIX9uAYwjqH8vyp6pw913e6WqcXYiW9mI8VuZbWoN11zV18OMXXEuILuOCjuN4tDJ3ttATPmwLRJl_uyTgvm9v6MfsYSb4UIVIiyaEtY-4088/s9999/RB581214_sRGB.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" data-original-height="986" data-original-width="1600" height="246" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMuZMtigi7tHTPLM8QzuLm5oq1b65u0OlgIX9uAYwjqH8vyp6pw913e6WqcXYiW9mI8VuZbWoN11zV18OMXXEuILuOCjuN4tDJ3ttATPmwLRJl_uyTgvm9v6MfsYSb4UIVIiyaEtY-4088/w400-h246/RB581214_sRGB.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />.<br /><p></p></div></div></div></div><div><h2 style="text-align: left;">Postscript - LED bezel for the AG01</h2><div><p>For bling lovers and night flying addicts, RadioMaster also offer an LED ring bezel kit with a choice of blue or white leds. I didn't install them but it should be easy - no soldering is involved. A potential downside is the need to reduce the vertical stick movement in order to clear the bezel.</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgu51baP-v_od87yjgNRSvLM0ADEv1LE0Zb5u6zkX2bMqNSffLVmYCw1RdntvVhZUx0cs9WxRq28T_xQQzlVNhMpxd9RpXUCFrMkwVBYFh6PyOmb5_Ia3yazgmwZjAQqXCAopsMC072-t-z/s9999/PG096769_1600px.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" data-original-height="911" data-original-width="1600" height="228" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgu51baP-v_od87yjgNRSvLM0ADEv1LE0Zb5u6zkX2bMqNSffLVmYCw1RdntvVhZUx0cs9WxRq28T_xQQzlVNhMpxd9RpXUCFrMkwVBYFh6PyOmb5_Ia3yazgmwZjAQqXCAopsMC072-t-z/w400-h228/PG096769_1600px.jpg" width="400" /></a></div></div></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6178637817134212554.post-31464703226103788632021-04-12T13:30:00.072+01:002023-08-26T11:24:30.189+01:00A template for DLG, and a channel changer script<p style="text-align: left;">With summer just around the corner, I've just added a brand new setup to my family of OpenTX templates. It’s called, simply, '<i>DLG</i>', and it’s intended for 4-servo discus launch gliders like the Blaster, Snipe, Vortex etc. Read on and find out if <i>DLG is </i>the right solution for you...!</p><div><span><a name='more'></a></span><div><div><h2 style="text-align: left;">Universal DLG template</h2><p>The <i>DLG </i>template doesn't depend on any Lua scripts, and it runs on virtually any OpenTX or EdgeTX transmitter including the X-Lite Pro, X9D, Q X7, X10 and Radiomaster TX12 and TX16S. The only requirement is a momentary switch for launching (more on this below).</p><p style="text-align: left;"><i>DLG </i>works with OpenTX 2.2 and later. </p><div><p style="text-align: left;">The template does not include F3K specific scoring screens - if those are important to you, then you'll need to look elsewhere.</p><div><br /></div></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhy5OY_kzlQbQf3w6VzE3TjqtpyyxX77gRlQ03Jn-dg5Su5r-WH0v3rc8iaFyJrpOo-0NMWZ_gC663Ct90WeiMqk8tvj4nSyMq681JMLd_Hjw0MLxctTpZ0gzJ7G06B29DKQm-L9AAzyE2b//" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Author with Topsky 2" data-original-height="409" data-original-width="800" height="205" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhy5OY_kzlQbQf3w6VzE3TjqtpyyxX77gRlQ03Jn-dg5Su5r-WH0v3rc8iaFyJrpOo-0NMWZ_gC663Ct90WeiMqk8tvj4nSyMq681JMLd_Hjw0MLxctTpZ0gzJ7G06B29DKQm-L9AAzyE2b/w400-h205/IMG_6169_bySyl_Unresized.jpg" title="Author with Topsky 2" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Author with Topsky 2</td></tr></tbody></table></div><div><br /></div><h2 style="text-align: left;">Calibration mode</h2><p style="text-align: left;">Many pilots have problems getting the flaps to track each other precisely. With the DLG template, achieving precise tracking is simple, using the built in CAL (calibration) mode. CAL mode cancels all the mixing and trims for the channels being calibrated, allowing end points and centres to be adjusted visually. </p><p style="text-align: left;">CAL mode is not just for initial configuration - it'll help you identify and correct for drifting servos or temperature effects on the field, so you can keep your model in a consistant state, regardless of trim settings.</p><h2 style="text-align: left;">Zoom mode</h2><p style="text-align: left;">Zoom mode is activated automatically after the launch button is released. It overrides all other flight modes, so you can throw without worrying about the position of the brakes or the flight mode switch. </p><p style="text-align: left;">To exit Zoom mode, you push forward on the elevator stick. If the brake stick is not at idle, the brakes are suppressed and you get a warning. </p><p style="text-align: left;">[<i>edit</i>] After a delay of three seconds, the launch height is announced (for this to work, a receiver with altitude telemetry is needed, for example the FrSky G-RX6 or RadioMaster ER6G).</p><h2 style="text-align: left;">Supertrim</h2><p style="text-align: left;">[<i>edit</i>] Starting with version 2.1, the template features Supertrim. In normal use, it acts as a regular trim. But as soon as you pull the brakes, it repurposes itself to adjust the brake-to-elevator mix ('compensation'). This makes trimming very simple. </p><p style="text-align: left;">For fine tuning, you can adjust a crow compensation curve.</p><p style="text-align: left;">You can read more about Supertrim <a href="https://rc-soar.blogspot.com/2022/01/supertrim%20.html">here</a>.</p><div><h2 style="text-align: left;"><i>Channel changer</i> script</h2><p style="text-align: left;">I'm also making available a simple channel changer script which allows you to re-order channels 1-16, if the default channel order doesn't suit. It works with any OpenTX or EdgeTX transmitter.</p></div><div><br /></div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqNE9ZvTUBk5Q0KJgVlUmo3tYajd-wGyLP5X2E3Bd2ttPOIPMWZC-jp5cn114KoyPYKtL38yaPhvQUwmoKDg04GJoNGMtsqJt4SWlh9EzWVMCnzcBmo-4Dx7VTO7RVbJ5bHGUUEO6vu6Mu//" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Channel changer script (TX16S)" data-original-height="272" data-original-width="480" height="226" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqNE9ZvTUBk5Q0KJgVlUmo3tYajd-wGyLP5X2E3Bd2ttPOIPMWZC-jp5cn114KoyPYKtL38yaPhvQUwmoKDg04GJoNGMtsqJt4SWlh9EzWVMCnzcBmo-4Dx7VTO7RVbJ5bHGUUEO6vu6Mu/w400-h226/tx16s.png" title="Channel changer script (TX16S)" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Channel changer script running on TX16S. <br />Latest version supports 16 channels.</td></tr></tbody></table></div><h2 style="text-align: left;">Links</h2><div><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><a href="https://rc-soar.com/opentx/setups/dlg/index.htm">DLG template</a></li><li><a href="https://rc-soar.com/opentx/lua/chanchange/index.htm">Channel changer script</a><br /><br /></li></ul></div><h2 style="text-align: left;">The launch switch</h2><p style="text-align: left;">Most OpenTX transmitters have a single momentary switch mounted on the right shoulder. That's fine for left-handers, but if you're right handed you'll want to move it to the other side - and some transmitters are easier to modify than others. </p><p style="text-align: left;">The FrSky X9D and X9 Lite offer easy access to the switches, and it's just a quick soldering job. </p><p style="text-align: left;">The Radiomaster TX16S (and similar radios) have switches soldered to daughterboards - and they are a pain to deal with as the left and right boards are not interchangable, and soldering is tricky. The easiest option is to get an <a href="https://redirect.viglink.com/?format=go&jsonp=vglnk_166039437473910&key=5e5e6e04e939b9674c384ca8b03117f4&libId=l6rvx31y010248ul000DLb50fh44c&loc=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.rcgroups.com%2Fforums%2Fshowthread.php%3F3493859-RadioMaster-TX16S-16Ch-2-4ghz-Multi-Protocol-OpenTX-Radio-System%2Fpage981%23post49638261&gdprConsent=CPdT-lsPdT-lsAKAXAENCbCsAP_AAH_AAAQAI8Nd_X__bW9j-_5_aft0eY1P9_r37uQzDhfNk-8F3L_W_LwX52E7NF36pq4KmR4Eu1LBIQNlHMHUDUmwaokVrzHsak2cpyNKJ7JEknMZO2dYGF9Pn1tjuYKY7_5_9_bx2D-t_9_-39T378Xf3_dp_2_-_vCfV599jfn9fV_789KP9_79v-_8__________3_7BBoAkw1LiALsSxwJNAwihRAjCsJCoBQAQUAwtEFgAwOCnZWAQ6ghYAIBQBGBECDEFGDAIAAAIAkIgAkALBAIgCIBAACABAAhAARMAgsALAwCAAEA0LEAKAAQJCDIgIjlMCAiBIKCWysASgr0NMIAyywAoFEZFQAIkAABICAkLBwDAEgJcKAAAAA.YAAAAAAAAAAA&ccpaConsent=1---&gdprApplies=true&v=1&opt=true&out=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.radiomasterrc.com%2Fcollections%2Ftx16s-accessories%2Fproducts%2Ftx16s-replacement-sf-sh-switch-assembly&ref=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.rcgroups.com%2Fforums%2Fsubscription.php%3Fdo%3Dviewsubscription%26daysprune%3D-1%26folderid%3Dall&title=RadioMaster%20-%20TX16S%2016Ch%202.4ghz%20Multi-Protocol%20OpenTX%20Radio%20System%20-%20Page%20981%20-%20RC%20Groups&txt=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.radiomasterrc.com%2Fcollec...witch-assembly">aftermarket LHS board</a>. Alternatively, add your own button, using the SI and SJ pads on the motherboard. The Radiomaster website has instructions for this.</p><div><p style="text-align: left;">A couple of honourable exceptions: the RadioMaster TX12 has momentary buttons on both sides (though they are not particularly comfortable to reach); the X9D Plus 2019 has a dedicated launch button on the left. </p></div></div><p style="text-align: left;">Whichever transmitter you use, I'm sure you'll enjoy the <i>DLG </i>template!</p></div></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6178637817134212554.post-10351546763677207732020-12-11T15:49:00.250+00:002023-08-26T15:59:15.323+01:00RadioMaster TX12 - mini marvel or... ?<p>
Looking for a compact and inexpensive radio which runs OpenTX? Well here's
something to put on your shortlist - it's the new TX12 from Radiomaster, and
it's possibly the smallest and cheapest OpenTX transmitter currently on the
market.
</p>
<p>
I've been playing - and flying - with a pre-production unit for the last
couple of weeks. Read on and find out if this little baby is for you...
</p>
<p><span></span></p>
<a name='more'></a><br />
<div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjag2dune3dZDkCcsizGfvl_5Rmf-hfB5D-ov3DRWzF-7LRlS_6a39lYaajMIiq9XEWypdZnPcQ8SMyI0649uWQFzRqej29lzOU2t0UuxL6oWeJToymqTC_B9e7mxWwSBM0M1K0W9oV7vug/s2048/PG096785_2048px.jpg"
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><img
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src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjag2dune3dZDkCcsizGfvl_5Rmf-hfB5D-ov3DRWzF-7LRlS_6a39lYaajMIiq9XEWypdZnPcQ8SMyI0649uWQFzRqej29lzOU2t0UuxL6oWeJToymqTC_B9e7mxWwSBM0M1K0W9oV7vug/w400-h300/PG096785_2048px.jpg"
width="400"
/></a>
</div>
<div>
<blockquote style="background-color: lightgrey; border-radius: 1em; padding: 1em;">
<i>Full disclosure - Radiomaster kindly sent me a pre-production unit to
evaluate. RM did not seek or receive access to this review prior to
publication. </i>
</blockquote>
<h2 style="text-align: left;"><br />A small transmitter!</h2>
<p style="text-align: left;">
Remove the TX12 from the simple packaging, and the first thing that
strikes you is its size - this transmitter is small - and I
mean <i>small! </i>Here it is, next to the FrSky X9D:
</p>
<div>
<br />
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width="400"
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</div>
<br />
<div>
<br />
<p style="text-align: left;">
Dig in the box and you'll find some accessories:
</p>
<div>
<ul style="font-size: medium; font-weight: 400;">
<li>A USB-C cable for charging and data transfer</li>
<li>An antenna (yes, it's removable)</li>
<li>A plastic plug for the antenna exit</li>
<li>
An instruction leaflet (very bare, but this was a pre-production
unit)
</li>
</ul>
<div><br /></div>
<div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a
href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpp-gtN_lnsmUg5x7bbuhN9n0bXdAeDZTog-TE5D3W9L0OXrvqzbkryEN-8gRjd5fEPDcZCZQn5NI-NpOwhfuUN5CXzpZGpYX9rwbYINn8rEviD6pV4xAndUpzB_qH1qhyOtKwt-dsfXuB/s2048/PG096756_2048px.jpg"
><img
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src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpp-gtN_lnsmUg5x7bbuhN9n0bXdAeDZTog-TE5D3W9L0OXrvqzbkryEN-8gRjd5fEPDcZCZQn5NI-NpOwhfuUN5CXzpZGpYX9rwbYINn8rEviD6pV4xAndUpzB_qH1qhyOtKwt-dsfXuB/w400-h258/PG096756_2048px.jpg"
width="400"
/></a>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<div>
<div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div>
<h2 style="text-align: left;">Ergonomics</h2>
<p style="text-align: left;">
The shape of the TX12 is all curves and smooth surfaces. It's okay to
hold, though a bit on the small side for medium sized hands. The
main issue is the stick spacing, which is rather tight.
</p>
<p style="text-align: left;">
Another niggle is that the the rear grip could be a little
deeper. If using it for DLG, I'd be inclined to apply a non-slip
covering over and around the grip.
</p>
<div><br /></div>
<div><br /></div>
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width="400"
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</div>
<br />
<div><br /></div>
<div><br /></div>
<p style="text-align: left;">
There are some nice touches, like the folding handle:
</p>
<div><br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br />
</div>
<div><br /></div>
<p style="text-align: left;">
The trainer and USB ports are in the right place, at the top of the
unit:
</p>
<div><br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a
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width="400"
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</div>
<br />
<div>
<div><br /></div>
<p style="text-align: left;">
Fit and finish are adequate, if not quite up to the standard of the
TX16S.
</p>
<h2 style="text-align: left;">Switches, buttons and sliders</h2>
<p style="text-align: left;">
The TX12 sports four switches, two sliders, and two momentary buttons.
All are symmetrically arranged.
</p>
<h3 style="text-align: left;">Switches</h3>
<p style="text-align: left;">
All four switches are 3-position. If you need a 2-position switch,
you’ll need to replace one of them, and this will involve some
soldering.
</p>
<p style="text-align: left;">
The quality of the switches seems fine. However those on the front
are, rather annoyingly, angled slightly upwards.
</p>
<h3 style="text-align: left;">Momentary buttons</h3>
<p style="text-align: left;">
There are two momentary buttons labeled A and D. They are electrically
similar to regular momentary switches - the only difference is you
have to take your thumb off the stick to operate them. They're fine
for RSSI and voltage callouts and so on. With some simple
programming, they can emulate push-on, push-off switches.
</p>
<p style="text-align: left;">
At first, the buttons look good for DLG launch switches, but in
practice the press action and their location make it all rather
awkward (yes, I've tried).
</p>
<div><br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a
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width="400"
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</div>
<div><br /></div>
<div><br /></div>
<h3 style="text-align: left;">Sliders</h3>
<p style="text-align: left;">
The sliders are welcome at this price point. However they feel
imprecise and the centre detents are vague. I've since printed my own
levers with a non-slip finger pad, and the feel is much improved. The
photo below shows the lever as supplied:
</p>
<div>
<br />
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><img
border="0"
data-original-height="1127"
data-original-width="2048"
height="220"
src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqjBm_j9ZXeRLdsSy4rALFHDqnq1fpOCh1giilRf8xjmcyXfn7bvJy5k54oytSJPTXxgImvZEzkubMhZ0xWgGqhZDrrEKlwLVyoXXO1NbIYdqadGb9H8a31kDclh4oX-cQ6k6KqShWB1pK/w400-h220/PG096789_2048px.jpg"
width="400"
/></a>
</div>
<p>And this is my printed version:</p>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br />
</div>
<h3 style="text-align: left;">Power switch</h3>
<p style="text-align: left;">
The power switch incorporates a bright 3-colour LED. Blue for
booting, red for blocked/charging, and green for transmitting.
</p>
<p style="text-align: left;">
Delays for startup and shutdown can be configured in the Radio
Settings menu. If you're really impatient, you can also disable the
splash screen.
</p>
</div>
<h3 style="text-align: left;">Antenna</h3>
<p style="text-align: left;">
The antenna is removable. A warning sticker reminds you to attach the
antenna before powering up the transmitter with the internal module
active - otherwise you risk frying the module. I'm keeping my antenna
permanently attached.
</p>
<h3 style="text-align: left;">Gimbals</h3>
<p style="text-align: left;">
As expected at this level, the gimbals are all plastic and use
conventional pots rather than Hall sensors. The soldered joints are
well supported and there's minimal flexing of the cables. It's nice to
see that the shafts are ball raced.
</p>
<div><br /></div>
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<br />
</div>
<p style="text-align: left;">
Stick length and spring tension are adjustable after opening the case.
The tension out of the box was too strong for me, and I ended up
reducing it to the minimum. Once properly adjusted, I found the sticks
nice to use.
</p>
<p style="text-align: left;">
The throttle axis has a friction strap. I had to tighten mine down to
achieve sufficient friction. It would be nice to have a ratchet as
well, but - as the photo shows - there's insufficient room for two
straps.
</p>
<div>
<div><br /></div>
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><img
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data-original-height="1536"
data-original-width="2048"
height="300"
src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCrmIPGoF7mOrBwCC-rYh4qYOncHmkowhKxrLkhdPjyZXT0cUDSjEqB37_pQHbO2FUoo1BrICZ6jqA49wjPi4xlbp-2DXjrh8N0d3TAk77ZGAqIKI04QMZRFWxPsodTrWlPqDxWUSebjEy/w400-h300/PG096834_2048px.jpg"
width="400"
/></a>
</div>
<br />
<p style="text-align: left;">
[<i>Edit Feb 2021</i>: the throttle pot on my unit has developed a
problem. A perfect excuse to check out the RadioMaster support
ticket system - I sent a vid and description, and have now received
a replacement gimbal.]
</p>
</div>
<h3>Screen </h3>
<p style="text-align: left;">
The screen is a backlit 128 x 64 monochrome panel, similar to those
used on the Q X7, X9 Lite etc. The backlight is only needed in dim
light, and is configurable in the radio settings menu.
</p>
<h3>Sound</h3>
<p style="text-align: left;">
The sound from the single speaker is loud and clear - top marks here.
</p>
<div><h2 style="text-align: left;">Firmware</h2></div>
<p style="text-align: left;">
My TX12 came with a development build of OpenTX 2.3. The transmitter
worked out of the box, however functionality was limited as no SD card
was provided. I dug out a spare card, and populated it with files from
the Radiomaster website.
</p>
<p style="text-align: left;">
I also downloaded the latest nightly build of the Companion 2.3.11
from the OpenTX site. The sim for the TX12 is not yet supported, but
that will no doubt be corrected for the final firmware.
</p>
<h2 style="text-align: left;">Programming controls</h2>
<p style="text-align: left;">
The programming controls follow the example on the TX16S, with six
buttons and a knurled metal scroll wheel. All have a nice positive
action. However, I feel that the six buttons are overkill - the FrSky
X9 Lite which has just three buttons, yet is easier to navigate.
</p>
<div><br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a
href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-ZILpc1SsGlpt4e-cTt01tr9Fgdy6bEKGkGFBP09_Q0pv4Np_k9hNdSm74B9rPtmT2ERLIG3gsflII0_v0kUH-JEyCov545NnmkniJddyMOHjn9sOnbwx5rlcDYc-nTS4ylpWZ_f1rUt4/s2048/PG096759_2048px-2.jpg"
style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"
><img
border="0"
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height="173"
src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-ZILpc1SsGlpt4e-cTt01tr9Fgdy6bEKGkGFBP09_Q0pv4Np_k9hNdSm74B9rPtmT2ERLIG3gsflII0_v0kUH-JEyCov545NnmkniJddyMOHjn9sOnbwx5rlcDYc-nTS4ylpWZ_f1rUt4/w400-h173/PG096759_2048px-2.jpg"
width="400"
/></a>
</div>
<br />
<p style="text-align: left;">
The TX12 incorporates the small-screen variant of OpenTX, with some
menus split into sub-menus. Programming can be a little fiddly (you'll
probably want to use Companion for larger projects), however the
functionality is the same as any other OpenTX radio.
</p>
<h2 style="text-align: left;">Internal construction</h2>
<div>
The case is held together by six screws in the back, and two clips at
the top. Before removing the back, it's important to release the
battery cover first as it can bend and snap (no, it didn't happen, but
it could).
</div>
<div><br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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><img
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width="400"
/></a>
</div>
<div><br /></div>
<p style="text-align: left;">
The back comes off to reveal a single large printed circuit board,
with neatly arranged wiring. The RF module is soldered directly to the
board.
</p>
<p style="text-align: left;">
Having everything on the main board is great for reliability. The only
downside is that if a subsystem fails, it may mean replacing the whole
board.
</p>
<div><br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a
href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7CNB6-a4gUep2STNcrM7tYRBnOOH0TuWwuvjxmvMQfQziXko-2b5627ciUJ0zeMnfKG6TVvjXwoYdiK4QjNBaoTXwr61aZE4dp7SDozZZLgdmSxogjtHZzwQPH7E_JzEKvX5fzbmRjxcI/s2048/PG096838_2048px.jpg"
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width="400"
/></a>
</div>
<br />
<p style="text-align: left;">
The switch wires are soldered without the usual heatshrink tube. I
have no problem with this - on the contrary, it makes it easier to
replace a switch.
</p>
<h2 style="text-align: left;">RF and protocols</h2>
<p style="text-align: left;">
The internal multi-protocol module contains a single RF chip, the
CC2250. This supports Graupner HOTT, FrSky D8/D16, Hitec, Futaba
S-FHSS and just a few other protocols. Spektrum protocols are
not supported.
</p>
<p style="text-align: left;">
One benefit of using a single chip module is you get full power from
the CC2250 (with the 4-in-1 modules, the power from the CC2250 is 1db
less, equating to around 12% less range for those protocols which use
it).
</p>
<p style="text-align: left;">
For FrSky users, the MPM supports cloning of another transmitter
running D8 or D16 (v1 or v2, LBT or FCC).
</p>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<p>
The designers have somehow found room for a JR-style external module
bay, thus extending the protocol options to Crossfire,
Spektrum, M-LINK etc. If using an external module permanently, it
makes sense to remove the main antenna (remembering to disable the
internal RF to avoid damage).
</p>
</div>
<h2 style="text-align: left;">Battery and charging</h2>
<p style="text-align: left;">
The battery arrangements on the TX12 are simple and flexible. Two
18650 batteries fit into a tray which slides in from the bottom. At
first it seems an impossible fit, but it all works beautifully. The
tray plugs into the main board via a 3-pin balance connector, so it
can be removed for external charging if required.
</p>
<div><br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div>
<p style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></p>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<div style="text-align: left;">
Remove the tray and there's room for an even larger pack.
</div>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br />
</div>
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width="400"
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</div>
<div><br /></div>
<h2 style="text-align: left;">Charging </h2>
<p style="text-align: left;">
The built-in charger is a great feature at this price point. Simply
connect to a USB source using the included cable - the status LED goes
red to indicate charging, and goes off when it's complete. Done!
</p>
<p style="text-align: left;">
<br />The USB-C port is also used for data transfer with the Companion
software, and for controlling a sim.
</p>
<h2 style="text-align: left;">Flight tests</h2>
<p style="text-align: left;">
For the flight tests, I flew my Mini Ellipse. This is a 1.5 meter
sloper which I've modified for six servos and crow brakes. To control
the model, I used my <a
href="https://rc-soar.com/opentx/setups/f3f/index.htm"
>F3F setup</a
> and <a
href="https://rc-soar.com/opentx/lua/adaptivetrim/index.htm"
>crow aware trim</a
> Lua script. It's a complex setup, yet it runs very happily on
the TX12!
</p>
<p style="text-align: left;">
The receiver is a FrSky G-RX6 with ACCST 2.1 firmware.
</p>
<p style="text-align: left;">
As for the flying.... it took a couple of flights to familiarise after
which I felt perfectly quite at home, although the transmitter felt
just a little too small for my regular sized hands.
</p>
<p style="text-align: left;">
There were no RSSI warnings or glitches - it all felt 100%
solid.
</p>
<p style="text-align: left;">
I also flew my Ahi., using a simpler <a
href="https://rc-soar.com/opentx/setups/ahi/index.htm"
>template</a
>. For this model, I configured one of the buttons as a 2-state toggle
for high/low rates.
</p>
<p style="text-align: left;">
[<i>Edit: </i>I've since had two more sessions with the TX12, and
the more I fly with it, the more I marvel at this little powerhouse. A
tip: if using a neck strap, use thin straps to avoid obscuring the
screen.]
</p>
<h2 style="text-align: left;">Conclusions</h2>
<p style="text-align: left;">
Despite its small size, the TX12 is a versatile and fully capable
OpenTX transmitter. The inclusion of USB charging makes it especially
attractive. Above all, this transmitter is great fun to use.
</p>
<p style="text-align: left;">
There are just a couple of niggles. The sliders, though a nice
surprise at this price point, are rather feeble. Also the momentary
buttons, while useful in their own right, can't make up for the lack
of a proper 2-position switch - if you fly DLG you'll definitely want
replace a shoulder switch with a proper momentary launch switch.
</p>
<p style="text-align: left;">
Finally, the weak point of any cheap radio is going to be the
potentiometers, and a Hall gimbal option would be very welcome.
</p>
<p style="text-align: left;">
The usual caveats about OpenTX apply - I love it, but some find it
tricky to program so please do your research first.
</p>
<p style="text-align: left;">
Overall, the TX12 is a good choice for simpler gliders, foamies,
simple e-flight models, controlling a sim, flying a quad... or just
learning about OpenTX. And, at just £55, it's a steal!
</p>
</div>
</div>
<h2 style="text-align: left;">Specifications</h2>
<div>
<div>
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li><span>Size: 170*159*108mm</span></li>
<li><span>Weight: 363g</span></li>
<li><span>RF Chip: Single-chip Multi-protocol(CC2500)</span></li>
<li>
<span
>Supported Protocols: Corona, Hitec, Futaba S-FHSS, Frsky D16/D8,
RadioLink, Graupner HoTT</span
>
</li>
<li><span>Transmitting Power: 20dbm (100mW)</span></li>
<li><span>Antenna Gain: 2db</span></li>
<li><span>Working Current: 160mA@8.4V</span></li>
<li><span>Voltage Range:6.6-8.4v DC</span></li>
<li><span>Range: > 2km @ 20dbm (depending on receiver)</span></li>
<li>
<span
>Radio Firmware: OpenTX(Transmitter)/ Multi-Module(RF
module)</span
>
</li>
<li><span>Channels: Up to 16 (depending on receiver)</span></li>
<li><span>Display:128*64 Monochrome LCD display</span></li>
<li><span>External module: JR/FrSKY/Crossfire compatible</span></li>
<li>
<span
>Upgrade Method: USB/SD card* & OpenTX Companion PC
software.</span
>
</li>
</ul>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6178637817134212554.post-29393886680530881402020-11-24T19:21:00.091+00:002021-04-15T15:55:29.601+01:00Hands on review: FrSky X9 Lite<p>The FrSky X9 Lite is a compact, lightweight transmitter running OpenTX. It's also FrSky's cheapest transmitter at around £70. </p><p>The price may be tempting - but how good is the transmitter, and who is it for? In this review, we're going to find out! </p><p><span></span></p><a name='more'></a><p></p><h3 style="text-align: left;">Look and feel</h3><p>The X9 Lite has an unpretentious, Tonka-toy-meets-X9D look about it. The shell comes in a choice of three colours: blue, white and silver. </p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlwiwe5pxL1BXCJX4sg2iyPoK-9u8ez9hXe0Jl0LETJU_nXM7cdvOEjWkF4gQK8iU05RVqLuQeeBTRabI4he2ihDOEBX4IG11n-A6utvgTWiJUffZEhSxIrvVkTnTgHqXB7EEaKESQRjic//" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlwiwe5pxL1BXCJX4sg2iyPoK-9u8ez9hXe0Jl0LETJU_nXM7cdvOEjWkF4gQK8iU05RVqLuQeeBTRabI4he2ihDOEBX4IG11n-A6utvgTWiJUffZEhSxIrvVkTnTgHqXB7EEaKESQRjic/w400-h300/PG095693_Blog.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">X9 Lite (left) next to author's X9D Plus<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p>The X9 Lite is well screwed together with generally good fit and finish. It's comfortable to hold, too, thanks to the rounded surfaces and rear grips. </p><p><br /></p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiltxSF-gOoXbLr7uhLDv0ywg4N7Ty1jcJSnkRmanj4NAEc6a0zmAxYfImEubUlzYJ6IXiFxqEnBCOcRJOUh0Xcy-q4Svmu9LhXRAgjbcHJx4ScMYOChZudZxVexDygRNRTHKA3M1lk2BN1//" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" data-original-height="1517" data-original-width="2048" height="296" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiltxSF-gOoXbLr7uhLDv0ywg4N7Ty1jcJSnkRmanj4NAEc6a0zmAxYfImEubUlzYJ6IXiFxqEnBCOcRJOUh0Xcy-q4Svmu9LhXRAgjbcHJx4ScMYOChZudZxVexDygRNRTHKA3M1lk2BN1/w400-h296/PG096522_Blog.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hand-friendly mouldings </td></tr></tbody></table><br /><br /><p></p><h3 style="text-align: left;">Protocols</h3><p>The X9 Lite's internal module supports the ACCST D16 and ACCESS protocols. The RF module comes in a choice of LBT or FCC, and cannot be changed. LBT is mandatory for the EU and UK.</p><p>There's no support for D8 - for that you'll need to purchase an external 'lite' module which fits into the rear bay. The sliding cover was very stiff on my unit, and I had to open up the case to release it from the inside.</p><div>This was my first ACCESS radio and I was curious to see how the registration and binding process worked. In fact the process was not so different to binding with D16 except for a couple of extra steps. One point of difference is that the recommended RSSI alert levels are 35 and 32.</div><p><br /></p><h3 style="text-align: left;">Controls</h3><p>The sticks are ball raced and as expected they use potentiometers rather than the more expensive Hall sensors. </p><p>Spring tension can be adjusted after removing the back of the case which is attached by four cross-head screws. I like my sticks fairly loose, and even with maximum adjustment, I could have done with softer springs. </p><p>Five switches are provided, along with a rotary knob. All switches are 3-position except for the rear left (2-position) and rear right (momentary). The cables are soldered directly to the terminals, so it should be a simple job to swap them round.</p><p><br /></p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn01BvCNglHRKpjxNmlGphCeyrMfQzrpSGkNhvAZ3VkgaybKATK0MwInPG1w76pI72tW4jdiiGM97v6SovM1bWaHLDTgf7DUQFovEIy8s_TNbSc7kzrQ3cavEZVsMxY2K2OPAAcAw9NaMk//" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" data-original-height="1986" data-original-width="2048" height="389" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn01BvCNglHRKpjxNmlGphCeyrMfQzrpSGkNhvAZ3VkgaybKATK0MwInPG1w76pI72tW4jdiiGM97v6SovM1bWaHLDTgf7DUQFovEIy8s_TNbSc7kzrQ3cavEZVsMxY2K2OPAAcAw9NaMk/w400-h389/PG095679_Blog.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Internals<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEih5sp5G1qFBFRMnR5UZ854pKUIgkNxGo8sfhw6fTtATp-3L8KCtihV7zXAfnC8yZ32uh9VIRbbXDpPPcV4tnySnn8Jh_HhXkcjwQJ51OpSOtKjbFR2QbIyHDVdRLw_HmM2EX8oAeszoeCY//" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEih5sp5G1qFBFRMnR5UZ854pKUIgkNxGo8sfhw6fTtATp-3L8KCtihV7zXAfnC8yZ32uh9VIRbbXDpPPcV4tnySnn8Jh_HhXkcjwQJ51OpSOtKjbFR2QbIyHDVdRLw_HmM2EX8oAeszoeCY/w400-h300/PG095682_Blog.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rear moulding and battery connector<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div></div><h3 style="text-align: left;">Screen and programming controls</h3><p>The screen is based on a 128x64 mono panel, similar to those on the Q X7 and X-Lite. In order to fit the small screen, some of the OpenTX menus are split into sub-menus. This makes navigation a little cumbersome compared with the X9D, however all the features of OpenTX are present.</p><p>The programming controls are nice and simple - just three buttons on the left side of the screen and a scroll wheel to the right. The buttons on mine had little travel and a rather 'dead flesh' feel.</p><p><br /></p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtSat52n6mBC4r0avxDQT7pqlQ7kOBRWlfbNNjOOxz2t79EscLbXEOsoWQYQHqTpUJERs6RKJtnIRnTwHENgCBhWclIkdKIKVyC1n-kdGNtKR-OzX5KSeEOqBj5O2ncC5s2TRy1kYh4dNE//" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtSat52n6mBC4r0avxDQT7pqlQ7kOBRWlfbNNjOOxz2t79EscLbXEOsoWQYQHqTpUJERs6RKJtnIRnTwHENgCBhWclIkdKIKVyC1n-kdGNtKR-OzX5KSeEOqBj5O2ncC5s2TRy1kYh4dNE/w400-h300/PG095688_Blog.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cute cookie!<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p></p><h3 style="text-align: left;">Ports</h3><div>Various ports are accessible from the bottom of the case. These are (from left to right):</div><div><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>DSC trainer</li><li>Data port for Companion (micro USB-B cable not supplied)</li><li>Micro-SD card (not supplied)</li><li>Smartport (for flashing external devices)</li><li>Headphones</li></ul></div><div>Rather annoyingly, there's no protective cover, so best not to leave the transmitter standing on wet grass.</div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaWgJQnNTNssDPLwktOSFOtgiXhyphenhyphenRWG-TusatQ_00OrrbO8f3hbaeDtQ9iNR3U7ovBg8eXS8MPf6s-Aon_WBiJqnJrpHP68F8pl3P9TwZBHmMeuIyPs3tGxJqcZQCy-ZDW4izSTyttPGuY//" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img alt="" data-original-height="1263" data-original-width="2048" height="246" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaWgJQnNTNssDPLwktOSFOtgiXhyphenhyphenRWG-TusatQ_00OrrbO8f3hbaeDtQ9iNR3U7ovBg8eXS8MPf6s-Aon_WBiJqnJrpHP68F8pl3P9TwZBHmMeuIyPs3tGxJqcZQCy-ZDW4izSTyttPGuY/w400-h246/PG096516_Blog.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ports - see text</td></tr></tbody></table><h3 style="text-align: left;">Batteries</h3><p>A hinged cover provides access to two 18650 LiIon batteries (not included). They are arranged inline, and to ensure good contact they should be 'button top' style.</p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3qrgJYszkqxI85pnEBswX-0rNCnURkgO4SDyTaOQzJyA8LOluCcWGutmtaF_MAbT4-AA9k8mf99Z1yMXMQaCkuBL9oxPfdHQLrHRYy8o1du3lJj20SiKdUx_6HJaUe5dPjsibJh9_ZKQb//" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3qrgJYszkqxI85pnEBswX-0rNCnURkgO4SDyTaOQzJyA8LOluCcWGutmtaF_MAbT4-AA9k8mf99Z1yMXMQaCkuBL9oxPfdHQLrHRYy8o1du3lJj20SiKdUx_6HJaUe5dPjsibJh9_ZKQb/w400-h300/PG095697_Blog.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">External module bay and battery compartment<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><br /><p></p><p>The X9 Lite lacks an internal charger so the batteries need to be removed for charging. Furthermore, the batteries are a very tight fit in the compartment, and awkward to extract. I worked around this by making 'grab tabs' from Kapton tape. </p><p>Another gotcha is that the +ve and -ve terminals are identical, so there's no immediate visual cue as to which way round the batteries should be oriented. You have to look a the +ve and -ve markings in the holder, and these are only lightly embossed.</p><p>All in all, the battery arrangements leave some room for improvement. On a positive note, current consumption should be minimal thanks to the mono screen, so you won't be removing the batteries very often.</p><h3 style="text-align: left;">Flight tests</h3><p>For the flight test, I paired it with my Mini Ellipse, a classic 1.5 m all-moulded slope soarer. I've recently modified it for 6 servos and crow brakes. I used my <a href="https://rc-soar.com/opentx/setups/f3f/index.htm">F3F template</a> (lightly modified) and <a href="https://rc-soar.com/opentx/lua/adaptivetrim/index.htm">adaptive trim script</a>. </p><p>The receiver is a G-RX6 running ACCESS firmware. Binding using ACCESS involves a couple of extra steps, but is easy enough. </p><p><br /></p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjC90u63g4JNUZmc_aXNGo2xSgI6JwZKeljBDlHYN1hY9s2YJsNCHjqRxnHBlozf1M2XqkNCCbdsy_JbyYSFZERgOW_sDFiaWvXjzgK0nFLBDANN5P8NFCUsslvS_ZhzEb1a3QCYZTYuu_X//" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img data-original-height="1099" data-original-width="2048" height="215" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjC90u63g4JNUZmc_aXNGo2xSgI6JwZKeljBDlHYN1hY9s2YJsNCHjqRxnHBlozf1M2XqkNCCbdsy_JbyYSFZERgOW_sDFiaWvXjzgK0nFLBDANN5P8NFCUsslvS_ZhzEb1a3QCYZTYuu_X/w400-h215/PG096314_Blog.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Perfect partner for author's 6-servo Mini Ellipse <br /></td></tr></tbody></table><div><p></p><p><br />The conditions at Ivinghoe were perfect, and I had great fun flying the Mini Ellipse. The X9 Lite felt nice in the hand and performed as it should - no glitches or RSSI warnings.</p><h3 style="text-align: left;">Conclusions</h3><p>I've enjoyed using the X9 Lite. It works very well as a go-anywhere transmitter for slope soaring. It feels dependable, the programming is powerful and it's small enough to sling in a small backpack.</p><p>However, it's let down by the lack of a built in charger and awkward battery access. And in these days of MPM's, the protocol choices are a little narrow.</p><p>An extra £26 will get you the 'S' version with internal charger and Hall gimbals. At that price, though, it's up against some stiff competition in the form of the MPM equipped RadioMaster TX16SE and TX12, as well as FrSky's own Q X7.</p><p>To sum up: the X9 Lite is a decent option for committed FrSky fans, but it no longer stands out from the crowd.</p></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0London, UK51.5073509 -0.127758329.394054109347639 -35.284008299999982 73.620647690652362 35.028491699999989tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6178637817134212554.post-65963766069298741272020-07-31T13:27:00.165+01:002023-01-23T23:44:47.464+00:00RadioMaster TX16S review: can it crush my X9D Plus?<div class="separator">
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Never has there been so much choice for OpenTX fans! While FrSky tries to steer us towards their ACCESS protocol, other manufacturers are offering an alternative pathway with their multi-protocol module (MPM) equipped radios.<br />
<br />One such transmitter is the RadioMaster TX16S, a fully featured radio at a highly competitive price. It features an integrated 4-in-1 MPM which works with receivers from FrSky, Graupner, Spektrum, Multiplex, Futaba, Hitec and many others.</div><div><br /></div><div>Can it succeed where the Jumper T16 failed, and replace my Taranis X9D+? Read on and find out!</div><div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBQNQI1JZwl6mHlPgdsif3n8EK41G1cAac2sRaCJp0T-7SOmLy86AnbqKz9EMU9Q2YjeorvcKKB2AKVTlbj09pbKL_FDk3BtLysKOATlVmto9jh2JMDCOF7CEMcGLs0mn5bZ7C69RxBBmn/s1600/PG092010_2048px.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="RadioMaster TX16S" border="0" data-original-height="1482" data-original-width="1600" height="370" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBQNQI1JZwl6mHlPgdsif3n8EK41G1cAac2sRaCJp0T-7SOmLy86AnbqKz9EMU9Q2YjeorvcKKB2AKVTlbj09pbKL_FDk3BtLysKOATlVmto9jh2JMDCOF7CEMcGLs0mn5bZ7C69RxBBmn/s400/PG092010_2048px.jpg" title="RadioMaster TX16S" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">RadioMaster TX16S</td></tr>
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<blockquote style="background-color: lightgrey; padding: 1em;">
<i>Full disclosure - RadioMaster kindly sent me this unit free of charge to evaluate and keep. RM did not seek or receive access to this review prior to publication, and all opinions are my own. </i></blockquote>
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Roots and branches</h2>
RadioMaster may sound like a new name, but the company arose from the team which produced the Jumper T16. No surprise, then, that the TX16S bears more than a passing resemblance to the T16 Pro, a radio which I also owned and reviewed on this blog.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzgLHpZ-WkgONSAFZHgtGkAp-LDFSbtzeI7zHNEDueey5jBCKHp4fMyHNjE6fxfHCkSe8y-2hEOzNzEjdjBpfebKvkPCdlO3AnKdg8A_VoTqW7fGqwHqPhQUkXjgMrH1SwiG2ERnKpnfoU/s1600/PG091961_2048px.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Similar spec, different character: Jumper T16 Pro(left) and RM TX16S" border="0" data-original-height="949" data-original-width="1600" height="236" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzgLHpZ-WkgONSAFZHgtGkAp-LDFSbtzeI7zHNEDueey5jBCKHp4fMyHNjE6fxfHCkSe8y-2hEOzNzEjdjBpfebKvkPCdlO3AnKdg8A_VoTqW7fGqwHqPhQUkXjgMrH1SwiG2ERnKpnfoU/s400/PG091961_2048px.jpg" title="T16Pro and TX16S compared" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Similar spec, different character: Jumper T16 Pro (left) and RadioMaster TX16S</td></tr>
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<br />Another transmitter which looks similar is the Jumper T18, however it is reported to suffer from reduced range on 2.4 GHz due to the antenna arrangement (a consequence of its support for R9). I won't mention it further.<br />
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What's in the box</h2>
The first surprise is the packaging. Instead of the usual polystyrene, the TX16S comes in a semi-rigid foam case with the RadioMaster logo embossed on the lid. It fits like a glove and is perfect for storage. </div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVmQiOgwJSlji9BCJJjzLqS7UoDCPMlkgmm-L-WcMIKuyPy8CKQWUw27wFOFz4fOQ7mOZWgCBPgVqzMOuC7vz2XMCL_hdyD_mLBnGwp4FduoKtvhmFlHxdcpvMj4ZJo4au2oTyfftQwBbd/s2048/PG092029_2048px.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Semi-rigid foam case" border="0" data-original-height="1463" data-original-width="2048" height="358" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVmQiOgwJSlji9BCJJjzLqS7UoDCPMlkgmm-L-WcMIKuyPy8CKQWUw27wFOFz4fOQ7mOZWgCBPgVqzMOuC7vz2XMCL_hdyD_mLBnGwp4FduoKtvhmFlHxdcpvMj4ZJo4au2oTyfftQwBbd/w500-h358/PG092029_2048px.jpg" title="Semi-rigid foam case" width="500" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">TX16S as delivered</td></tr>
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<div>My unit came with the following accessories: </div>
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<li>Neckstrap with the 'RadioMaster' logo + carabiner clip</li>
<li>Quick Start guide</li>
<li>1 meter USB-C charge/data cable</li>
<li>4 x gimbal springs. These are softer than the ones fitted.</li>
<li>Sticker sheet (I'm a sucker for these!)</li>
<li>Key ring (cute!)</li>
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All hardware is of decent quality, however, the carabiner clip will inevitably scratch the screen, so I've kept the screen protector in place for now.</div>
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Styling and ergonomics </h2>The TX16S looks smart and is well screwed together.</div>
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<div>The plastic shell has a smooth semi-matt finish. The side and rear grips are made of a flexible plastic. Compared with the Jumper T16, the material is less squishy. However the grips are deeper and there's a finger rest which aids stability.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFR65iHTF4Jmep39f1HxdmfG-MeGDT6Nu4dsbcdeylE9z7LF_fRg40xbhOTJ-pzyqtDANCTcl97cZ_7eGZwhQuXGbdvoGvHQXYYfrKPgrG5mr4h8xUWP1Z3G72LBi2T3U71JpYScMDvdnX/s2048/PG092017_2048px.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Rear grips T16 left, TX16S right" border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="375" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFR65iHTF4Jmep39f1HxdmfG-MeGDT6Nu4dsbcdeylE9z7LF_fRg40xbhOTJ-pzyqtDANCTcl97cZ_7eGZwhQuXGbdvoGvHQXYYfrKPgrG5mr4h8xUWP1Z3G72LBi2T3U71JpYScMDvdnX/w500-h375/PG092017_2048px.jpg" title="Rear grips T16 left, TX16S right" width="500" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rear grips T16 (left) and TX16S.</td></tr>
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The power switch is 'soft' and incorporates a status LED: blue for transmit, red for blocked, and green for charging. There's a delay when powering on and off. The 'off' delay is adjustable in OpenTX Sys/Radio menu.</div>
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The unit balances nicely with a neck strap when using 18650 cells.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7Nf0zvBOxnxziCunXP-d7bLrnQJMJRmAxAfGSsxKqoRbfGlVdqwDotXivldybtzGGmjls_mCFoSh3RQi61b1KTFok1YYZI3MJpcx0h1urYz220K6cT88JkBv5HUEeQmn2GXQhyhzMyh_Z/s2048/PG091991_2048px.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Power switch" border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="375" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7Nf0zvBOxnxziCunXP-d7bLrnQJMJRmAxAfGSsxKqoRbfGlVdqwDotXivldybtzGGmjls_mCFoSh3RQi61b1KTFok1YYZI3MJpcx0h1urYz220K6cT88JkBv5HUEeQmn2GXQhyhzMyh_Z/w500-h375/PG091991_2048px.jpg" title="Power switch" width="500" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Power switch and neckstrap point</td></tr>
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Switches, knobs and sliders</h2>
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<i>[If you're already familiar with the T16, T18 or X10 then you can skip this section as they're all pretty similar in terms of knobs and switches....]</i></div>
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Eight switches are provided – six 3-position and two 2-position at the rear. The switches have a decent action with minimal play. All switches are mounted on daughter boards for stability - the downside is that swapping them around will involve some tricky soldering. </div><div><br /></div><div>In common with its peers, the momentary switch is at the rear right, not the best place for right-handed DLG pilots.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHrUKlCyQEIfsGialbRcudju5JKGz1OLKLzdm1IY0Tt9z-I3Li6hzy263C8f3L26TmcLXa0AvgeAe6cw1mPmItOL5kp068ceXn1QeYx9h5GefGKX4fzbs4RbwXhIq3En2ihuH7_q3Lur3O/s2048/PG092021_2048px.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="The TX16S switches have a nice feel" border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="384" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHrUKlCyQEIfsGialbRcudju5JKGz1OLKLzdm1IY0Tt9z-I3Li6hzy263C8f3L26TmcLXa0AvgeAe6cw1mPmItOL5kp068ceXn1QeYx9h5GefGKX4fzbs4RbwXhIq3En2ihuH7_q3Lur3O/w512-h384/PG092021_2048px.jpg" title="Switches" width="512" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Switches have a nice feel</td></tr>
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There’s a slider on each side. They're not great - too little friction and too short throw - but they are usable (I use the left slider for motor control).</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWc4md18rxXdqoG0hgBIX8HHgqWn3uRf_-pxv40Awq7zKAZXrxGm9aWQk9MGOaHSlCK241LSV6LDoDxukuqBh6LDHraupoPRKwltP0oomh6SpDdlfHPRHnkM5l0smcAcQSW0Z3UU70bRZT/s2048/PG092003_2048px.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="TX16S Sliders" border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="384" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWc4md18rxXdqoG0hgBIX8HHgqWn3uRf_-pxv40Awq7zKAZXrxGm9aWQk9MGOaHSlCK241LSV6LDoDxukuqBh6LDHraupoPRKwltP0oomh6SpDdlfHPRHnkM5l0smcAcQSW0Z3UU70bRZT/w512-h384/PG092003_2048px.jpg" title="TX16S Sliders" width="512" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sliders are not the TX16S's strong point</td></tr>
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Near the top are the two analogue knobs (S1/S2). They're small and a little fiddly, but usable. <br />
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Below these are six illuminated 'chicken feet'. These behave as radio buttons (one button is active at any one time), and are programmed as a 6-position switch. </div>
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Below the chicken feet are two auxiliary trimmers (T5/T6). These could be programmed as mix adjusters for rates, diff etc.</div>
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Access to the programming menus is via six buttons and a roller. Unusually, there are two Page buttons, for forward and back. Personally I am used to a single Page button, but some may prefer the extra button. The lettering on the four black buttons is embossed, and is not so easy to read.</div>
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The roller is made of metal with a knurled finish. It has a nice weight, and a pleasant click action - much better than the 'dead flesh' action on the T16. </div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivgjb5-Cgvevb3D_-F6pXbMjNkfAJ9VKv3GrLXO9PHW4Iw3fNDuwUQf6-beEQEcDl4W_oo0GXThkq1ALv9_S_T7akm0TBnDpjNx7Xf8lQIILpGPVBSMtE2Ci_5rsKwGZbPVBacBI4nNzic/s2048/PG091976_2048px.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="TX16S roller, made of knurled metal" border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="375" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivgjb5-Cgvevb3D_-F6pXbMjNkfAJ9VKv3GrLXO9PHW4Iw3fNDuwUQf6-beEQEcDl4W_oo0GXThkq1ALv9_S_T7akm0TBnDpjNx7Xf8lQIILpGPVBSMtE2Ci_5rsKwGZbPVBacBI4nNzic/w500-h375/PG091976_2048px.jpg" title="TX16S roller" width="500" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Knurled metal roller</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
<br /></div>
<h2 style="text-align: left;">
Looking inside</h2>
<div>
One of the first tasks will be to adjust the gimbals, and to do this, you have to open the case. This is accomplished by peeling off the side grips and undoing six screws. </div><div><br /></div><div>Spring tension is adjusted by with an Allen key - clockwise weakens the tension. For the throttle axis, the usual ratchet and friction adjustments are provided.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
This is a good opportunity to examine the rest of the insides. It's all very neatly organised, with good use of cable ties, and the gimbal wires are well supported at the junction with the sensors. </div><div><br /></div><div>The SD card is accessible via a rubber flap in the bottom of the case. Care is needed when inserting the card - if you get it wrong it can slip inside the case.</div><div><br /></div><div><div>[<i>Note that new sets have an extra speaker on the rear moulding, with a lead to the motherboard. Extra care will be needed to separate the two halves.]</i></div><div><br /></div></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiR7ABdIWThIIM1w3GDuBlhzv1bIBfHBvqyvO3EXDpy9e5O4nzuokYlBsOSOHyxy0tQuar_j7bcD2imqEKtpB-6euBcJTTqcUovBljM4RBvDoljhj0WQ-v7iKfNtZIB7L6k6SFeDk8Rt3zH/s2048/PG092178_2048px.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="A view of the electronics" border="0" data-original-height="1956" data-original-width="2048" height="479" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiR7ABdIWThIIM1w3GDuBlhzv1bIBfHBvqyvO3EXDpy9e5O4nzuokYlBsOSOHyxy0tQuar_j7bcD2imqEKtpB-6euBcJTTqcUovBljM4RBvDoljhj0WQ-v7iKfNtZIB7L6k6SFeDk8Rt3zH/w500-h479/PG092178_2048px.jpg" title="A view of the electronics" width="500" /></a></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<br />
<h2 style="text-align: left;">
Multi protocol magic!</h2>
</div>
<div>
The TX16S has an internal 4-in-1 multi protocol module (MPM), derived from the well proven <a href="https://github.com/pascallanger/DIY-Multiprotocol-TX-Module">open source project</a>.<br />
<br />
The emulations are all reverse engineered, so don't expect any support from the original manufacturers. However problems are rare, and generally quickly fixed.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
The list of supported protocols includes FrSky, Spektrum, HOTT, Multiplex M-LINK, Hitec and Futaba SFHSS. Importantly, each model can be configured with its own protocol.<br />
<br />
<h3>
Operation with FrSky receivers</h3>
</div>
<div>
The MPM supports D8 and D16 (v1 and v2.1), LR, LBT and FCC. All these options can set on a per-model basis. The resulting flexibility is far greater than FrSky themselves offer. (With FrSky transmitters, most options are set in firmware and cannot be varied from model to model.)<br />
<br />
Note however that FrSky's new ACCESS protocol is not supported, and it's unlikely that it will be.<br />
<br />
<h3>
Frequency calibration</h3>
</div>
<div>
If using FrSky (and other protocols using the CC2500 chip), the MPM's frequency must be calibrated against a receiver. The procedure is straightforward. </div><div><br /></div><div>The MPM documentation states that calibration need only be done once and the setting copied to other models, however I have found that tuning can vary between receivers - I calibrate for each receiver individually.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<h3 style="text-align: left;">
Cloning another transmitter</h3>
<div>
The MPM allows you to impersonate another transmitter running FrSky D8 or D16. The usefulness of this feature cannot be overstated. It means you don't have to rebind your existing fleet of FrSky receivers when migrating from, say, an X9D to the TX16S. And on the field, it means that you can switch quickly between transmitters - very handy if you use one as a backup. </div><div><br /></div><div>To perform the cloning, you select the 'FrSkyRX' protocol then bind with the transmitter to be cloned. Under the covers, the MPM is capturing the cloned transmitter's GUID. To use the cloned id, you select a FrSky protocol, with 'Cloned' as the sub-protocol.</div><div><br /></div><div>Cloning is available in more recent versions of the MPM firmware, and OpenTX 2.3.9 or later is required. The tx to be cloned must be running FrSky D8 or D16 (v1 or V2). </div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWR2C9lmFBsyfbY6HrqsaksFdeQkdsCjzevI7z5Y6Q3CKSHMP-JlZLJjs0vSm0thEesiJqfigfv-NiXf3tGQCJ3MzVohHqq-4r_dPC4Ra3FKVbRvLs7EifDKx5J63DfpE1B9ZgNHgprerG/s1600/P1160632_1600px.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Screenshot of MPM configuration with D-16 clone mode enabled" border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="281" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWR2C9lmFBsyfbY6HrqsaksFdeQkdsCjzevI7z5Y6Q3CKSHMP-JlZLJjs0vSm0thEesiJqfigfv-NiXf3tGQCJ3MzVohHqq-4r_dPC4Ra3FKVbRvLs7EifDKx5J63DfpE1B9ZgNHgprerG/w500-h281/P1160632_1600px.jpg" title="Screenshot of MPM clone configuration" width="500" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The MPM can imprersonate another D8 or D16 transmitter</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div><br /></div>
<h3 style="text-align: left;">Spectrum analyser</h3>
<div>
The MPM has a spectrum analyser function, accessible from the OpenTX 'Tools' menu. </div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgT63cRrWHJn3aWytvBDAoGboc0dVtqpSwYivsMrc3LHS-U7dwwWyXMrcVr15ZCW59woovaKXaG9lH6vgOK7SUpi1FzSaic_3wSTzLi0QgQ7c2hc5XWmjLsrUzhZT1MyWVQsBRziiRLTRYW/s2048/P1160675_2048px.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Spectrum analyser function" border="0" data-original-height="1158" data-original-width="2048" height="283" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgT63cRrWHJn3aWytvBDAoGboc0dVtqpSwYivsMrc3LHS-U7dwwWyXMrcVr15ZCW59woovaKXaG9lH6vgOK7SUpi1FzSaic_3wSTzLi0QgQ7c2hc5XWmjLsrUzhZT1MyWVQsBRziiRLTRYW/w500-h283/P1160675_2048px.jpg" title="Spectrum analyser" width="500" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Spectrum analyser function</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
<br /></div>
<h3 style="text-align: left;">
External module</h3>
<div>
In addition to the MPM there's an external JR-style bay, so you can use an original FrSky, M-LINK etc. module if needed. Support for telemetry will depend on the protocol.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<h2>
Batteries and charging </h2>
There's a generously sized battery bay with a holder for two 18650 cells. A rubber pad under the cover prevents the batteries from rattling around. </div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNWvzoFbQZTAzkD1Z1tsYZRUxMyq3zlz6AhGI87l1rcDd5KIm1AiBT-CcZGfLhl9AZMCY9MqWcFiav52YipHQO4w8ZwetQ60vLHeWhfj6NPff-0jVQbLa0-mwlaTfhkdbcwgFpxxm1n55u/s2048/PG092008_2048px.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="TX16S and T16 Pro battery compartments compared" border="0" data-original-height="1345" data-original-width="2048" height="329" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNWvzoFbQZTAzkD1Z1tsYZRUxMyq3zlz6AhGI87l1rcDd5KIm1AiBT-CcZGfLhl9AZMCY9MqWcFiav52YipHQO4w8ZwetQ60vLHeWhfj6NPff-0jVQbLa0-mwlaTfhkdbcwgFpxxm1n55u/w500-h329/PG092008_2048px.jpg" title="TX16S and T16 Pro battery compartments compared" width="500" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The TX16S (left) has a larger battery bay compared with T16</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>I've found the 18650's perfectly adequate for a day's flying, but for those who fly all day and every day, the bay will accept two 21700 LiIon cells. These have a typical capacity of 5000 mAh. Ready made packs are available as an extra.<br />
<br />
An internal charger provides balanced charging, with overload and temperature protection. Charging is very simple - just connect the transmitter to a USB source using the supplied cable. The power switch LED goes green, and turns off when charging is terminated. I simply leave mine to charge overnight.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgL2uIwLAUL3ug1fKBec9uDOv1mfl2kq83VWn3c-2DF6Xqrxw8XatecRiBCKgLj-AngaQZd4zeuqAhd4-7x92UapjBeNKHPryxpUW06w66jr8M2fitK0w84K52zn1DzC0kHozlDdOE9Yg02/s2048/PG092022_2048px.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Bottom ports" border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="375" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgL2uIwLAUL3ug1fKBec9uDOv1mfl2kq83VWn3c-2DF6Xqrxw8XatecRiBCKgLj-AngaQZd4zeuqAhd4-7x92UapjBeNKHPryxpUW06w66jr8M2fitK0w84K52zn1DzC0kHozlDdOE9Yg02/w500-h375/PG092022_2048px.jpg" title="Bottom ports" width="500" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bottom ports from L-R: UART, USB-C charging, SD slot, UART. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<br />
<h2>
Sticks / gimbals</h2>The sticks feature Hall sensors and have a lovely smooth action. The sticks can be adjusted for height after releasing a grub screw in the top. </div><div><br /></div><div>Tension feels uniform and in all directions (unlike the gimbals on the Jumper T16). The tension as delivered was a little too firm for my taste, and I weakened it by loosening the tension screws as described earlier. For those who like it even weaker, a packet of softer springs is provided. </div><div><br /></div><div>A slight oddity is that the gimbal markings are on the horizontal rather than vertical axes.<br /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4QFmxU9BttJPtAEZxuv4CCde91o8xu6ktPxnTFO-uTFaAiF76V9uKFHsXTPoHznx2ZJ_Kid-eSKdOzDQQEH_OoIqOJ0jYRcbtr2Y-2eBOP3IMX045zt2K7X90RDs1EUkmG7oeK8ev2KUR/s2048/PG091979_2048px.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Stick top" border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="375" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4QFmxU9BttJPtAEZxuv4CCde91o8xu6ktPxnTFO-uTFaAiF76V9uKFHsXTPoHznx2ZJ_Kid-eSKdOzDQQEH_OoIqOJ0jYRcbtr2Y-2eBOP3IMX045zt2K7X90RDs1EUkmG7oeK8ev2KUR/w500-h375/PG091979_2048px.jpg" title="Stick top" width="500" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stick top</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguE9651s8vs0LC_rQ3WRrcVpR1veuOGqRMUARJnZ4PuD060Y0ocsRoM25r-czyF7OBiC3X2hwGxnmoYi4mSL45X9sxUwHTyKiFZRoMDihoUGXJSdyzDL6OQABf4sQYF5CoIwoZFWZVZcD0/s2048/PG092181_2048px.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Gimbal detail" border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="375" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguE9651s8vs0LC_rQ3WRrcVpR1veuOGqRMUARJnZ4PuD060Y0ocsRoM25r-czyF7OBiC3X2hwGxnmoYi4mSL45X9sxUwHTyKiFZRoMDihoUGXJSdyzDL6OQABf4sQYF5CoIwoZFWZVZcD0/w500-h375/PG092181_2048px.jpg" title="Gimbal detail" width="500" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gimbal mechanism</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<div>My sticks showed a few minor imperfections. First there is is an occasional calibration drift of +/-1% on a couple of axes. Slightly annoying, and I have passed on this observation to RadioMaster. Secondly, the sticks are canted inwards by approximately 0.5 mm, due to a minor alignment issue with the rocker arms. You have to look hard to see it, and it doesn't affect calibration or feel. </div><div><br /></div><div>My only real gripe is that the ratchet on my unit has worn down after relatively little use - I am now using a combination of ratchet and friction. </div></div><div><br /></div><div>None of these issues is a showstopper. Indeed, the sticks have a very nice feel when flying - which is what matters - and I would have no hesitation in using them for competition.</div>
<div>
<br />
<h2 style="text-align: left;">
Sound</h2>
Speaker volume on my unit is best described as adequate. I had no problem in a light breeze, but suspect I may struggle in anything stronger. <i>[edit: I have since installed the extra speaker kit, and sound is now sufficiently loud. The extra speaker is pre-installed on new sets- see comments.]</i></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGYHQNsjnQJxWksdwL1jnpoC9Z3gNF8JBo-cq5zwPTpz0lg4qobP0LnlO8ArxIPytcBCueskiHurbAeF-wscOQQvLSp8kkCYvdaRnqAOoWVJOd6UoXugRnohLmQJE_cjm6OFQzQPiJApQ0/s2048/PG092020_2048px.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Speaker grill" border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="375" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGYHQNsjnQJxWksdwL1jnpoC9Z3gNF8JBo-cq5zwPTpz0lg4qobP0LnlO8ArxIPytcBCueskiHurbAeF-wscOQQvLSp8kkCYvdaRnqAOoWVJOd6UoXugRnohLmQJE_cjm6OFQzQPiJApQ0/w500-h375/PG092020_2048px.jpg" title="Speaker grill" width="500" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Speaker grill.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<h2 style="text-align: left;">
Screen</h2>
The LCD panel is a 4.3” colour device. It's touch-capable, however we won't see the benefits until the the release of OpenTX 2.4.<br />
<br />
As with all the colour-screen tx's I've used, I had some difficulty in bright sunlight. This time though, I decided to investigate. It turns out the problem is not so much the panels, but the confusing graphic in the default OpenTX theme. Happily, it's a <a href="https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=45044297&postcount=5916">two minute fix</a>, after which the screen is much more readable.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXDA_7UEJNJxtpRuqKrhI5k4KSTXJH0AE12jMiAps6KFvKkoB54so_ocAXZWx8azfl5QfDXcBa5QDjKfyMK1M826mQmiEmRFgLyncniNAKooT6mIj0fCxOWUQAjoD7wEcKQkpcWw7T_mpM/s480/sia.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Screenshot of 'Show It All' widget" border="0" data-original-height="272" data-original-width="480" height="226" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXDA_7UEJNJxtpRuqKrhI5k4KSTXJH0AE12jMiAps6KFvKkoB54so_ocAXZWx8azfl5QfDXcBa5QDjKfyMK1M826mQmiEmRFgLyncniNAKooT6mIj0fCxOWUQAjoD7wEcKQkpcWw7T_mpM/w400-h226/sia.png" title="Screenshot of 'Show It All' widget" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Show It All widget after the theme mod (see text)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>[Edit: <i>following my post on RCG, OpenTX 2.3.10 has a new 'Flexi' theme which provides full control over colours, without the background graphic.]</i></div>
<div>
<br />
<h2 style="text-align: left;">
OpenTX operating system </h2>
My TX16S came with OpenTX 2.3.8. It works straight out of the box - there's no need to flash to a newer version unless you need the MPM's 'clone' feature. For programming on the PC and for data transfer, it'll be necessary to download the latest version of Companion.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfh00MXABeD4G_vXdulc2E-zjzXmRGrJAc6jiATl_jC7MdoFlAa3hzooQEp4KTyu1_l1Da7jtmO2oZeltfO8k78U7XtI7Rs26nUyvBvQQ3UEh4sXDgNTcoWOUDKSriupVOfkf-quXjxXkf/s2048/PG092001_2048px.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Data transfer port (USB-C)" border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="375" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfh00MXABeD4G_vXdulc2E-zjzXmRGrJAc6jiATl_jC7MdoFlAa3hzooQEp4KTyu1_l1Da7jtmO2oZeltfO8k78U7XtI7Rs26nUyvBvQQ3UEh4sXDgNTcoWOUDKSriupVOfkf-quXjxXkf/w500-h375/PG092001_2048px.jpg" title="Data transfer port (USB-C)" width="500" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">USB-C port at left is for file transfer and flashing OpenTX</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>Telemetry and other data are displayed using 'widgets'. A number of widgets are supplied as part of the operating system, and others are provided on the SD card. You can choose which widgets to display, and how much screen space each one should occupy, all of which allows you to build highly customised screens. If you're into programming, you can write your own widgets in Lua.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Widgets are a great idea, but configuring them can be tiresome. To get you going quickly, RadioMaster have included my <a href="https://rc-soar.com/opentx/lua/showitall/index.htm">Show It All</a> script which shows all the basic info in a single widget.<br />
<br />
Another useful widget is BattCheck for monitoring your motor battery. These two widgets may be all many pilots will need.</div>
<div>
<br />
<h2 style="text-align: left;">
Flight testing</h2>
</div>
<div>
So far I’ve had around ten hours flying, using three models:</div>
<div>
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li>Stribog with RX6R receiver, <a href="https://rc-soar.com/opentx/setups/f3f/index.htm">F3F 5.0</a> plus <a href="https://rc-soar.com/opentx/lua/adaptivetrim/index.htm">crow-aware trim script</a></li>
<li>Pike Precision 2 with RX6R receiver, <a href="https://rc-soar.com/opentx/setups/f3f/index.htm">F3F 5.0</a> plus <a href="https://rc-soar.com/opentx/lua/adaptivetrim/index.htm">crow-aware trim script</a></li>
<li>Multiplex Heron with X8R receiver, <a href="https://rc-soar.com/opentx/setups/esoarplus/index.htm">E-Soar Plus 3.0</a></li>
</ul>
The MPM configuration in each case was FrSkyX1 / D16 (clone), FCC. </div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7p-qKJxuy7DNlgNU7berHyVralx4HCu12s4ZSyI_LYLe7OTExjmGxA61T6Sb1KdupEshCChzEWF3sIJlU1V9Ct5eiM8Ga5WgctO9ppkkLPo0kXcoL7sheRPks85kXoFiwY8VaOebnVKGo/s2048/IMG_0800.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Test flying at Ivinghoe Beacon" border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="2048" height="281" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7p-qKJxuy7DNlgNU7berHyVralx4HCu12s4ZSyI_LYLe7OTExjmGxA61T6Sb1KdupEshCChzEWF3sIJlU1V9Ct5eiM8Ga5WgctO9ppkkLPo0kXcoL7sheRPks85kXoFiwY8VaOebnVKGo/w500-h281/IMG_0800.JPG" title="Test flying at Ivinghoe Beacon" width="500" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Author with Pike Precision 2 at Ivinghoe Beacon</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Flying has been uneventful, except for a single low RSSI warning when flying the Pike Precision. Bear in mind that this is a carbon rich model with a less than optimal antenna arrangement.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<h2 style="text-align: left;">
Additions</h2>
As I intend to use the TX16s regularly, I’ve made a few tweaks: <br />
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li>Replaced the fixed handle with a Jumper folding handle (fits perfectly). </li>
<li>Made a slimline Correx box (to fit in the backpack)</li>
<li>Added custom stick tops.</li>
</ul>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7OmEpxQ-pl8ukfyZg-fsMgimKG_S4hguQ4F0eVkrSqnS8AJ8uqVghj4KsvGvS8IvaTcJU7hGgC43aTNm8BW3fMTxIWdzwkOU22HemaAnsvI1Qo74mYKuioA98NDad7mrtNAXCjqyPhb-z/s2048/PG092191_2048px.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="With folding handle from Jumper T16" border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="375" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7OmEpxQ-pl8ukfyZg-fsMgimKG_S4hguQ4F0eVkrSqnS8AJ8uqVghj4KsvGvS8IvaTcJU7hGgC43aTNm8BW3fMTxIWdzwkOU22HemaAnsvI1Qo74mYKuioA98NDad7mrtNAXCjqyPhb-z/w500-h375/PG092191_2048px.jpg" title="With folding handle from Jumper T16" width="500" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Folding handle from Jumper T16 fits perfectly</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijjJ08NYZXqj6KR2nW9ZeQptapK2HAIxFyUpaGTA7CIR1NEUHc45NIQ0VYBNr68iXkNeRX0vceuu4ITCJYnnaUPi0pwxPT-lI5EzKM5auSyaGVE1F1wb2n6kysQI79NkVqE-wDx3TXzCtW/s2048/PG092196_2048px.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Author's custom Correx box" border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1942" height="500" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijjJ08NYZXqj6KR2nW9ZeQptapK2HAIxFyUpaGTA7CIR1NEUHc45NIQ0VYBNr68iXkNeRX0vceuu4ITCJYnnaUPi0pwxPT-lI5EzKM5auSyaGVE1F1wb2n6kysQI79NkVqE-wDx3TXzCtW/w474-h500/PG092196_2048px.jpg" title="Author's custom Correx box" width="474" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Author's slimline box from Correx.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<h2 style="text-align: left;">
Conclusions</h2>
It's clear that RadioMaster have put a lot of thought into the TX16S, rather more than one might expect at this price point. While it’s not perfect, <i>it gets the important things right</i>, with good build quality, good ergonomics, nice sticks and a simple and effective charging system. And at around £120 it represents excellent value.<br />
<br />
For FrSky users, the MPM allows you to mix and match protocols. And thanks to the ‘clone’ feature, you can seamlessly swap between the TX16S and a FrSky transmitter. For non-FrSky users, the TX16S offers a low cost entry into the world of OpenTX.</div><div>
<br />
Of course, the TX16S isn't going to suit everybody. For FrSky users who want to use genuine RF modules, or who wish to migrate to ACCESS, an X10 or X9D Plus 2019 would be a better choice. Also, right handed DLG flyers will find the momentary switch on the wrong side. <br />
<br />
So how does it compare with my X9D Plus? In spite of their age the X9D and its derivatives remain very good radios for soaring. They may seem a little basic with their mono screens and stripped down user interfaces, but they are compact and reliable workhorses. On the other hand, the TX16S is more modern, and just feels more desirable. It's a tough choice! As for me... suffice to say that the TX16S is the first OpenTX transmitter with a colour screen that I actually enjoy using.<br />
<br />
Whether the TX16S replaces my X9D Plus will become clearer with time. In the meantime, I finding myself instinctively reaching for the newer radio - I just really like using it!</div><div><br /></div><div><i>[Edit 16 Sept 2020: My TX16S has just had its competition baptism at the 2020 Welsh Open F3F, controlling my Pike Precision 2 for all three days of flying.]</i></div>
<div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje5D-qMUod-kX-utQyXR73duiG3tovy2M_pLUhvWLJo10biDvTQTw2SBQPRLZG3A9HTHYbSeXWHQ1HW3uBRygtZcNLd51RNjAS6EZ3SFwM_eOxj_hCTRJzNv2X7-aH3qRsofHBNdbLQpgm/s2048/PG091967_2048px.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img alt="Top view of FrSky X9D Plus and RM TX16S" border="0" data-original-height="747" data-original-width="2048" height="183" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje5D-qMUod-kX-utQyXR73duiG3tovy2M_pLUhvWLJo10biDvTQTw2SBQPRLZG3A9HTHYbSeXWHQ1HW3uBRygtZcNLd51RNjAS6EZ3SFwM_eOxj_hCTRJzNv2X7-aH3qRsofHBNdbLQpgm/w500-h183/PG091967_2048px.jpg" title="Top view of FrSky X9D Plus and RM TX16S" width="500" /></a></div>
<div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxrkVDFdsUfKAKTiCT5wf5naeadjBgW9eQm8YCd0j-I6e_FCNY-BtwlyN05vPVCAiu0MIjJD-MGvnSbkJMZx0GHpGzpm-O-EbBeS1AVx15gQeaVmSg5o0ptWKksszfcoMtxel-s8-O8Cnf/s2048/PG091962_2048px.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Front view of FrSky X9D Plus and RM TX16S" border="0" data-original-height="1168" data-original-width="2048" height="285" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxrkVDFdsUfKAKTiCT5wf5naeadjBgW9eQm8YCd0j-I6e_FCNY-BtwlyN05vPVCAiu0MIjJD-MGvnSbkJMZx0GHpGzpm-O-EbBeS1AVx15gQeaVmSg5o0ptWKksszfcoMtxel-s8-O8Cnf/w500-h285/PG091962_2048px.jpg" title="Front view of FrSky X9D Plus and RM TX16S" width="500" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Decisions! My trusty X9D Plus (left) v. the young pretender</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com22tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6178637817134212554.post-30465747646128583682020-04-16T17:07:00.006+01:002023-08-14T15:13:38.147+01:00A template for flying wings - and a new test tool!<p style="text-align: left;">Lockdown! Here in the UK it's been three weeks of relative quiet. On the bright side, I've been keeping busy with a couple of projects - a new template, and a testing tool for OpenTX setups...<span></span></p><a name='more'></a><p></p>
<h2 style="text-align: left;">
Wingy 4S</h2><p style="text-align: left;">
Wingy 4S is the latest in my family of OpenTX templates. It's designed for flying wings with 4 servos. These seem to be all the rage these days (see the <a href="https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?3423907-A-new-3-meter-plank-for-slope-flying">Wipe thread in RCG</a>), and following a request from Swedish pilot Lars Brinck I decided to create a generic template with a view to publishing it online.</p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-gG85RbHWPNaajPbCS60kwnSgtlQeeU7olTgX6hszFEdmpclo16lve9WsZswj_XFfawpvqQCK-JgFBK9600UgiMYlg3u61WPTr_6yhJRppDBvbYL3ilSyXto5fGdSlKS1IHw0YNur45hI/s1600/Wingy4S.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="381" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-gG85RbHWPNaajPbCS60kwnSgtlQeeU7olTgX6hszFEdmpclo16lve9WsZswj_XFfawpvqQCK-JgFBK9600UgiMYlg3u61WPTr_6yhJRppDBvbYL3ilSyXto5fGdSlKS1IHw0YNur45hI/s400/Wingy4S.png" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wingy 4S layout, mode 2 shown. Throttle stick operates crow brakes.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /><p style="text-align: left;">
The requirements were for quad-elevon mixing, crow brakes and rudder. My first thought was to take a knife to the F3F template, however it was soon clear this wouldn't work - camber, pitch and trim are inextricably linked on flying wings, and a complete redesign was needed.</p>
<p style="text-align: left;">Like my previous templates, Wingy 4S is provided with a setup guide, sound files and a reference guide. More info and download on <a href="https://rc-soar.com/opentx/setups/wingy4s/index.htm">OpenTX Clinic</a>.</p>
<h2 style="text-align: left;">
OTXSIM - a test and debugging tool</h2><p style="text-align: left;">
My second project is a telemetry script for testing OpenTX setups. I wrote it because I was tired of having to assemble a real model to do basic testing of a new setup. Using OTXSIM, all development and testing can be done on a PC - the model is only needed for calibrating the servos, and for final flight testing.</p><p style="text-align: left;">OTXSIM was inspired by <a href="https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?3277309-OpenTX-Glider-Simulator-V2-0">OpenTX Glider Sim</a> by Miami Mike. However it goes a little further. All my templates make use of GVARs (for adjusting mixers weights etc.), and I wanted to be able to alter these within the sim. Secondly, it had to support all common wing and tail layouts without reconfiguration. And thirdly, it had to be able to work out (or try to work out) the servo assignments automatically, from the channel names.</p><p style="text-align: left;">OTXSIM is intended for use with the Companion simulator. While it can run on a transmitter, there's little point and I don't recommend it - taking up processor cycles is fine on a PC but not a good idea when flying if it can be avoided.</p>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-O9XZG37-LxXMdl_vdxINAkDTq2ZGGADVsiviP38x4oRh2nWKhuCaqdILazk-hsLmUen8bl49_sGOv7lwdJ-EcYiArcViWd6kbUGNqSQzjHU05TLBiQR2JJKb0A2B0f2blUaT6itN_Xrv/s1600/otx_sim_demo+-+Copy.gif" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="128" data-original-width="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-O9XZG37-LxXMdl_vdxINAkDTq2ZGGADVsiviP38x4oRh2nWKhuCaqdILazk-hsLmUen8bl49_sGOv7lwdJ-EcYiArcViWd6kbUGNqSQzjHU05TLBiQR2JJKb0A2B0f2blUaT6itN_Xrv/s1600/otx_sim_demo+-+Copy.gif" /></a></div>
<br />
<p>The script supports the X9D/X9D Plus. If you're targeting another tx, you'll need to develop your setup for the X9D and then convert it to the target in Companion.</p><p>I've found OTXSIM invaluable, having used it extensively on the Wingy 4S project. You can find more information including a download link <a href="https://rc-soar.com/opentx/lua/otxsim/index.htm">on this page</a>.</p>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6178637817134212554.post-57751886908450697692019-10-27T19:48:00.025+00:002023-10-04T09:49:25.461+01:00Jumper T16 Pro - is it ready for prime time?The launch of the Jumper T16 has attracted a lot of attention. It's well equipped, runs OpenTx, and is very aggressively priced. But is it good enough for high value sailplanes? Could it replace my FrSky X9D Plus?<br />
<br />
There was only one way to find out, which was to get one and play with it!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8gbbzwPRoP7jqDXFmnJx0UGHSRKhccMEIcy7La2TmvuW52-wbg1tMDhZcfHE5tiyQa_DbBcAOasgKMvuGKjMYwnmCepqSCyK3ING2Ur_GMf0xbIz9MUMMqtxIdATwo9VHXpDy10lgYw89/s1600/P1160318_Blog.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8gbbzwPRoP7jqDXFmnJx0UGHSRKhccMEIcy7La2TmvuW52-wbg1tMDhZcfHE5tiyQa_DbBcAOasgKMvuGKjMYwnmCepqSCyK3ING2Ur_GMf0xbIz9MUMMqtxIdATwo9VHXpDy10lgYw89/s400/P1160318_Blog.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<h4>
<span style="font-weight: normal;"><br /></span></h4>
<h4>
<span style="font-weight: normal;">A bit of background: for the last six years </span><span style="font-weight: normal;">I've used a FrSky X9D and X9D Plus for all my flying, including F3F competition. These radios have proved to be excellent workhorses - reliable and easy to manage. For sure, the T16 Pro would have to be <i>seriously</i> good to replace them! Does it hit the mark? Read on!</span></h4>
<h4>
<span style="font-weight: normal;"><br /></span></h4>
<h4>
Overview</h4>
<div>
<br />
Although they look quite different, the T16’s specification is strikingly similar to the FrSky X10 - switch layouts are the same, the screens appear identical, and they run almost identical variants of OpenTx.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhR9f9G6xLVgr2B8iXlJJMVXAJZ3HvMyygAsVCRDHKbKLhQI72Ic2bLI4qkhy60pBdJaD_gnHxY5otXLul_AdZS80PDPTzA_UsPXzMuJyjegkFK6MZDkX95477yS72JX8_NXCA9f4nDRs77/s1600/P_G97284_Blog.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="241" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhR9f9G6xLVgr2B8iXlJJMVXAJZ3HvMyygAsVCRDHKbKLhQI72Ic2bLI4qkhy60pBdJaD_gnHxY5otXLul_AdZS80PDPTzA_UsPXzMuJyjegkFK6MZDkX95477yS72JX8_NXCA9f4nDRs77/s400/P_G97284_Blog.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">T16 has a same similar spec to X10, but adds an MPM</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
The main differentiator is the T16's multiprotocol module (MPM). This supports more than 50 protocols including ACCST/D16/D8, DSM2, DSMX and HOTT. The module is internal in the 'Pro' version, leaving the external bay free for an additional JR-style module.<br />
<br />
Of course the question is: do you need 50 reverse engineered protocols? Only you can decide! But as we'll see, it's really rather clever, especially for FrSky users.</div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<h4>
Operating system</h4>
<br />
My T16 Pro came with JumperTX, a quick and dirty fork of OpenTx 2.2. What I didn't know was that JumperTX is not compatible with OpenTX Companion. This meant that the T16 Pro was effectively useless, as I could not transfer my existing models from the X9D+ except by typing them directly into the transmitter. The prospect of wearing out my fingers didn't appeal, so I put the new transmitter to one side.<br />
<br />
A few weeks later, the T16 gained official OpenTX support which meant that I was finally able to get up and running. Woohoo - all my models and Lua scripts work fine in the their new home!<br />
<br />
New units will come with OpenTX preinstalled.<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKWYxi4d0e_zsgUiwpslJ1Lo3MdiMn56gfGDYUCy1eJKp1EZf6JREh1-J5cv3b5GTIbkocpk5zCb_PPDjAyd3gIq1AZT06NKdbrQdEeKCHxU3A_-6X_VpiRhGJHguFUJgwYz-AvwSFtkOh/s1600/P1160303_Blog.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKWYxi4d0e_zsgUiwpslJ1Lo3MdiMn56gfGDYUCy1eJKp1EZf6JREh1-J5cv3b5GTIbkocpk5zCb_PPDjAyd3gIq1AZT06NKdbrQdEeKCHxU3A_-6X_VpiRhGJHguFUJgwYz-AvwSFtkOh/s400/P1160303_Blog.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It works! My F3F setup with adaptive trim script under OTX 2.3.2. Bubbles are from screen protector (my fault!).</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<h4>
Flashing the multi-protocol module (MPM)</h4>
<br />
With OpenTx installed and running, my attention turned to the MPM. This is an <a href="https://github.com/pascallanger/DIY-Multiprotocol-TX-Module">open source project</a> by Pascal Langer and the design is well proven in products such as the <a href="https://www.google.com/search?q=irangex">iRangeX</a>.<br />
<br />
The first task was to install the latest MPM firmware. Normally this would be done by copying the firmware to the SD card and flashing from OpenTX, however my MPM didn't have a bootloader which meant that I had to flash the MPM using a USB to serial adapter. The procedure is well described <a href="https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=42917199&postcount=1">here</a> (thanks Benzo99) and I had no problems.<br />
<br />
A bootloader was installed as part of the process (future MPMs will be shipped with the bootloader pre-installed).<br />
<br />
<br />
<h4>
Using the MPM with FrSky ACCST</h4>
<div>
<br /></div>
Many users will want to pair the T16 Pro with their FrSky receivers. One really nice feature is that both EU and non-EU receivers are supported, and I had no problems binding to an X8R and RX6R (both non-EU), and a G-RX6 (EU-LBT). All worked fine, including telemetry. Note however that while the MPM understands the LBT protocol, it doesn't actually listen before talking. Neither does it support the newer ACCESS protocol.<br />
<br />
Before flying with ACCST for the first time, the MPM's frequency must be calibrated using a FrSky receiver as a reference. The procedure is straightforward, and once the calibration setting is known it can be copied into subsequent binds.<br />
<br />
The interface between OpenTX and the MPM is well designed - each can be updated independently, and OpenTx will always list the available protocols.<br />
<br />
Overall I think the MPM is a cool system, and by all accounts pretty effective.<br />
<i><br /></i>
[<i>edit 31 Mar 2020: </i>the MPM now supports ACCST V2.1 (hooray!). It also adds another clever feature: a 'receive' mode, which allows it to clone the GUID of an existing transmitter, for seamless sharing.]<br />
<br />
<br />
<h4>
The case </h4>
<br />
The case is a decent moulding with rubberised grips at the side and back. It's comfortable to hold, though I prefer the slightly chunkier feel of the X9D. Unlike the ergonomically challenged X10, I have no difficulty pushing the sticks into the top inner corner.<br />
<br />
The carry handle incorporates a moulded grip - a nice touch. However the handle projects back quite a long way, so extra space may be needed in the backpack. A compact folding handle is available as an extra.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEits5sm-6MvPxpUi9_3t5fQuCVtuQhisuViwhxWmoYMwlWeiakcVDEs5pco-3nqjzuPYvq4SzHy45CheAbswUg4XOLLvvNvSVDXWtl4_F6PeXMQf6orXeQTKBh_hWhv-paQP_NQfq4oNFat/s1600/P_G97289_Blog.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEits5sm-6MvPxpUi9_3t5fQuCVtuQhisuViwhxWmoYMwlWeiakcVDEs5pco-3nqjzuPYvq4SzHy45CheAbswUg4XOLLvvNvSVDXWtl4_F6PeXMQf6orXeQTKBh_hWhv-paQP_NQfq4oNFat/s400/P_G97289_Blog.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Top view, showing substantial carry handle</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<h4>
Sticks and switches</h4>
<br />
The gimbals are Hall effect units. Stick length and tension are adjustable. The sticks are nice and smooth, and there's none of the 'creaky spring' sound which I get on my X9D Plus.<br />
<br />
However the stick feel slightly odd, the tension being higher in one direction, and weaker - and non-linear - in the other. The result is that pushing the right stick towards the top left corner is like balancing on a pin - the gimbal wants to return to one or other axis. It only happens in that quadrant.<br />
<br />
The layout of the switches is similar to the FrSky X10, except that the 6-position switch is replaced by six illuminated buttons. From a programming perspective they work the same. Like the X10, a couple of extra trimmers are provided (T5 and T6) - great for mix adjusters or auxiliary functions.<br />
<br />
The transmitter can accommodate two extra switches or pots (SI, SJ), if you're prepared to do a bit of drilling and soldering. A typical use would be to install momentary buttons, for tasks such as querying RSSI or pack voltage.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnJxTVDRYgSgiXuOo6287gXf0nUe3vA_yYTSOu_ira30DXNpsNDv9taQh84L3z9KfxQsYWilRgeo_rRingmOPHiLAnNI40GC4v9uFuuGNZn8s3RRaIlypHPUBp3xuX3Xxw93kpfOOXrd1Y/s1600/P1160294_Blog.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="273" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnJxTVDRYgSgiXuOo6287gXf0nUe3vA_yYTSOu_ira30DXNpsNDv9taQh84L3z9KfxQsYWilRgeo_rRingmOPHiLAnNI40GC4v9uFuuGNZn8s3RRaIlypHPUBp3xuX3Xxw93kpfOOXrd1Y/s400/P1160294_Blog.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Top view showing mini-USB and trainer ports</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
One area which could be improved is the side levers - it's difficult to achieve fine control as their travel is very short, and there's little friction. The centre detent is also rather weak.<br />
<br />
The sound from the speaker is clear, and volume is good.<br />
<br />
<br />
<h4>
User interface (OpenTx)</h4>
<br />
Like the FrSky X10 and X12S, the T16 Pro has a 4.3 inch 480x272 colour TFT display. It also uses the same widget based variant of OpenTX - and suffers from the same deficiencies. In particular, the default view is almost bare; it shows just the model name, plus some icons for RSSI and battery level.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2KOkXBPl24bMZ6Wln1UnPsKXJdLbTir-MBeOg_Z4gmYJ5kzUjgJgP7QSd2q1891LrIJoXdeH-AsVhPyaO5VtDjOKDJ9CKrhh7j6_sCMRMkGvEZw3upxFGUHVgjVgYsGNJCvAWCTkD1RZG/s1600/screenshot_x10_19-11-07_14-42-54.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="226" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2KOkXBPl24bMZ6Wln1UnPsKXJdLbTir-MBeOg_Z4gmYJ5kzUjgJgP7QSd2q1891LrIJoXdeH-AsVhPyaO5VtDjOKDJ9CKrhh7j6_sCMRMkGvEZw3upxFGUHVgjVgYsGNJCvAWCTkD1RZG/s400/screenshot_x10_19-11-07_14-42-54.png" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Default screen is a bit bare.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
To show more info, you have to add widgets, and this can rapidly get tiresome if you have several models due to the less than intuitive navigation system. Also widgets can not be configured inside Companion.<br />
<br />
To try and improve matters, I’ve written a widget which displays basic info in a single large pane. You can download the widget from <span id="goog_1348333974"></span><a href="https://rc-soar.com/opentx/lua/showitall/index.htm">here</a><span id="goog_1348333975"></span>.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfuhxz_WskWAX3HzuzYtC1X5VZN-JbUxT9A_9uEyU3GHpyM2D73rgKVq3Dj5X2rgfTDVf-A119HcTr4Zg1YJKLQB5aSVTA9_Zrij-BroYjUOsDazpKvMjI1PSOjBdFvffompCBgltbWFfd/s1600/screenshot_x10_19-11-05_00-10-56.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="226" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfuhxz_WskWAX3HzuzYtC1X5VZN-JbUxT9A_9uEyU3GHpyM2D73rgKVq3Dj5X2rgfTDVf-A119HcTr4Zg1YJKLQB5aSVTA9_Zrij-BroYjUOsDazpKvMjI1PSOjBdFvffompCBgltbWFfd/s400/screenshot_x10_19-11-05_00-10-56.png" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My 'show it all' widget</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
As you can tell, I'm not a great fan of the widget-based variant of OpenTX. The X9D's interface may not be as pretty, but all the basic info is just a couple of clicks away. Furthermore, the X9D's telemetry scripts (the equivalent of widgets) can be configured in Companion.<br />
<div>
<br />
<h4>
</h4>
<h4>
External module bay</h4>
<div>
<br /></div>
The external JR-style module bay adds considerable flexibility. In particular, it permits the use of protocols which are not supported by the MPM, such as Crossfire and M-LINK. Also, by swapping a module between different transmitters, you can swap tx’s without needing to rebind. Or you might just be happier using an 'official' module (remember that the MPM depends on reverse engineering the official protocols.)<br />
<br />
Curiously, Jumper skimped on the module bay dimensions - my XJT just module only <i>just</i> fits (after pressing hard), and my M-LINK module refuses to click in place at all. An extra millimeter in depth would have made all the difference.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8i7mrYH9so6hUVP24ovy6vTe_32KDMPw4EXCec99xa2iSwI6FgMOGTIOn_8sflKebuhc7udw1Pq4UuA1Lf7nQkBTLTsfqmmls_8np7E4VzGO6aoAiXo0hlxzw-WBsDYSHolFlCatnduzX/s1600/P1160292_Blog.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="235" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8i7mrYH9so6hUVP24ovy6vTe_32KDMPw4EXCec99xa2iSwI6FgMOGTIOn_8sflKebuhc7udw1Pq4UuA1Lf7nQkBTLTsfqmmls_8np7E4VzGO6aoAiXo0hlxzw-WBsDYSHolFlCatnduzX/s400/P1160292_Blog.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">External module bay with FrSky XJT module</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
To cover the hole, my unit was provided with an empty module case. It looked untidy and rattled, so I made a simple plate for it (<a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3952839">downloadable from Thingiverse</a>). I rather like the colour accent from the pink PLA!<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfe2cwESWg4LqHDis-V24_uzQ8uK01b6m6jL58R_GC_o1kZ0XbdJUThJuQBydgNsy7OeKNR7p_TZvldOudWehPY9PEmmfoWn-NLifRMHL4k5iqoq02HS3PwjBbE7449SSu7HvMr7L77jZX/s1600/P1160343_1600px.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfe2cwESWg4LqHDis-V24_uzQ8uK01b6m6jL58R_GC_o1kZ0XbdJUThJuQBydgNsy7OeKNR7p_TZvldOudWehPY9PEmmfoWn-NLifRMHL4k5iqoq02HS3PwjBbE7449SSu7HvMr7L77jZX/s400/P1160343_1600px.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Printed module bay cover</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<h4>
The insides</h4>
<br />
Access to the electronics is easy - just pull off the rubber panels and undo six screws. The internals look neat and tidy.<br />
<br />
The switches are soldered to small daughter boards, so there’s no chance of them working loose or being misaligned. On the downside, it means that swapping out an individual switch is not a simple task. So if you like the momentary switch on the left hand side (for DLG), this transmitter may not be for you.<br />
<br />
<br />
<h4>
Ribbon cables woes</h4>
<br />
Almost all the interconnections use ribbon cables. On the plus side, it avoids clutter. However there have been a disturbing number of reports of failures causing buttons to behave unexpectedly or not work at all. Moreover the sockets reportedly lose their effectiveness after a few insertions.<br />
<br />
I checked out a couple of the cables on my tx (those with more of the blue leader visible), and while the contacts seem fine, one of the ribbons had not been fully inserted into its socket.<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8Rxx91geScRluAWkKsUOJ0AcNAMV43c0cVYzVqu6xPk1ofy3EiYzQcjBHj1DsJW7bpKLhHY2sP2CbWyUgnr4tGwGtcIXffHvYUu64uVd-O_FswtwZH5HK5G9ayoORp3pvNaJ51b7sscV_/s1600/P1160284_Blog.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8Rxx91geScRluAWkKsUOJ0AcNAMV43c0cVYzVqu6xPk1ofy3EiYzQcjBHj1DsJW7bpKLhHY2sP2CbWyUgnr4tGwGtcIXffHvYUu64uVd-O_FswtwZH5HK5G9ayoORp3pvNaJ51b7sscV_/s400/P1160284_Blog.jpg" width="391" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Neat innards. Note use of ribbon cables.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<h4>
Battery and charging</h4>
<br />
Power is supplied via two 18650 LiIon batteries (not supplied); these fit into a tray which connects to the tx via a short balance lead.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj5kucSXcILRLBocytZb1PLSmQ7u6b_LxptyuwZmB3zsR6DzhXXEPVsgmQYPx89_l_dzATY6tdFqd1M8oFkvjSz7rDF_VMgEarxXHsFRE8P5BpbWbReDQVG4mEjX6aKtNhbSdrs_baghmR/s1600/P_G97294_Blog.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="233" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj5kucSXcILRLBocytZb1PLSmQ7u6b_LxptyuwZmB3zsR6DzhXXEPVsgmQYPx89_l_dzATY6tdFqd1M8oFkvjSz7rDF_VMgEarxXHsFRE8P5BpbWbReDQVG4mEjX6aKtNhbSdrs_baghmR/s400/P_G97294_Blog.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Takes 2 x LiIon 18650 batteries, requires external charger.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
To charge the battery, it's necessary to use an external charger which means removing the tray and yanking out the cable - not helped by the battery hatch being rather stiff. In short, the T16 is crying out for USB charging; in the meantime <a href="https://www.google.com/search?q=jumper+t16+charger+board">various aftermarket solutions</a> are available.<br />
<br />
<h4>
In summary</h4>
<br />
The T16 Pro is a radio of contrasts. On the one hand, it's nicely designed, feels comfortable in the hand and has adequate build quality. The multi-protocol module adds great flexibility and by all accounts works well.<br />
<br />
Nothing's perfect though, and there are some significant negatives. These include: lack of internal battery charging, feeble sliders, asymmetrical stick action and - most critically - those issues with the ribbon cables. In short, the T16 Pro could so easily have been a great budget radio, but it just feels a little, well, unfinished.<br />
<br />
As to whether the T16 Pro is going to replace my X9D Plus.. well you've probably guessed, it's the the older radio which still hits the sweet spot. It's got nicer sticks, a slicker interface, and is easier to live with. And it uses proper connectors.<br />
<br />
In the meantime, watch out for the forthcoming Radiomaster TX16S. It sounds like a more developed knock off of the T16 Pro, and should address at least some of the issues identified in this review.<br />
<br />
<i style="font-weight: bold;">[Update 23 June 2020]</i> Jumper have been pretty responsive with regard to the ribbon cable issue and have started distributing replacement packs to their agents. I've just received a set. I've also ordered a USB-C upgrade board (to permit internal USB charging), as well as the folding handle upgrade. So while this is not going to be my #1 radio, it'll get a good stab at being #2.</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6178637817134212554.post-24331356452449872582019-02-25T13:44:00.039+00:002024-01-07T01:42:04.444+00:00Crow-aware adaptive elevator trim<p style="text-align: left;">
In this post I describe an adaptive trim system which makes it easy
to achieve perfect pitch trim at all crow settings.
</p>
<p style="text-align: left;">With the adaptive trim, the elevator trim is repurposed so that it <i>bends the crow compensation curve</i>. The process is completely transparent - no special action is required
during the flight. The pilot simply uses the trim as required.
</p>
<span><a name='more'></a></span>
<p style="text-align: left;">
I'm now using this system across all my F3F models. It allows me to optimise
the compensation very quickly - even before the first landing of a new model.
</p>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjj8thmE9CpkblWOf555hO9Sh833u3HTXVlgl1PV-JH3V-94b3QbCl4oVbcD4V2ZRoCkhTUEFNQ0sQX-tyCeKdrHJkH57NtD-kHIpnA9-YvUHGWCn5NwhvMuVWZc3CJ-Ok16P9Ben8eSsaw/s1600/AdaptiveTrim_Master+-+Copy_cr.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Graphic of crow aware adaptive trim system" border="0" data-original-height="609" data-original-width="918" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjj8thmE9CpkblWOf555hO9Sh833u3HTXVlgl1PV-JH3V-94b3QbCl4oVbcD4V2ZRoCkhTUEFNQ0sQX-tyCeKdrHJkH57NtD-kHIpnA9-YvUHGWCn5NwhvMuVWZc3CJ-Ok16P9Ben8eSsaw/w400-h265/AdaptiveTrim_Master+-+Copy_cr.png" title="Crow aware adaptive trim system" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<h2 style="text-align: left;">Quick revision: crow compensation</h2>
<p style="text-align: left;">
Crow brakes are at their heart very simple: the flaps go down and the ailerons
go up, increasing the rate of descent. However crow brakes have an unwelcome
secondary effect, in the form of a non-linear pitching moment. Left
uncorrected, the pilot has to juggle both the crow and elevator controls,
making it difficult to achieve an accurate landing.
</p>
<h3 style="text-align: left;">The 'compensation' mix</h3>
<p style="text-align: left;">
The standard remedy is a crow-to-elevator mix, plus a
<i>compensation curve</i> to handle the non-linear behaviour. Typically
the curve starts steep, tailing off at mid-crow and maybe increasing again at
full crow.
</p>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhicsPeKIjgg_JDRNwUtrqu0nPgmgAz7edeHgz7yfxMEwdeY2W3VshDVkCAHcpBszBTtcqHWEWQGlN9b5PAiKSc4b4RM6pVUJLrvWFe1Roul_qu-TH9UaeYp8d6WycNUwuuuWOtiSeFMQJS/s1600/crowcompstribog.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="120" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhicsPeKIjgg_JDRNwUtrqu0nPgmgAz7edeHgz7yfxMEwdeY2W3VshDVkCAHcpBszBTtcqHWEWQGlN9b5PAiKSc4b4RM6pVUJLrvWFe1Roul_qu-TH9UaeYp8d6WycNUwuuuWOtiSeFMQJS/s400/crowcompstribog.png" width="400" /></a>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">
Crow/elevator 'compensation' curve on author's Stribog
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<br />
<p style="text-align: left;">
All fine, except that traditionally the curve is adjusted manually. This
means landing the model each time an adjustment is required, and it can take
several flights to get right.</p><p style="text-align: left;">But hey, it's really just about pitch trim... wouldn’t it be nice if we could
simply <i>use the elevator trimmer to bend the curve? </i>That way, we would be able to optimise the curve whilst flying the model.</p><p style="text-align: left;">Turns out it is indeed possible.</p>
<h2 style="text-align: left;">The Adaptive Trim system - how it works</h2>
<p style="text-align: left;">I've called my solution the 'crow-aware adaptive trim' system. The basic idea is to use the elevator trim to bend the compensation curve.</p><p style="text-align: left;">There are three elements to the implementation. The first is to repurpose the elevator trim lever as a dumb two-sided
momentary switch - easily done in OpenTX. Once freed from its normal duties,
the trim becomes a highly flexible device.</p>
<p style="text-align: left;">
The second element is the Lua script. Its job is to monitor the trim lever, waiting for clicks. When a click is detected, the script fetches the crow value, identifies the
nearest point(s) on the compensation curve, and moves it up or down. (In terms
of the Lua code, the script reads the curve, modifies it, and writes it back.)
</p>
<p style="text-align: left;">
The rest is straightforward: the compensation curve is applied to a regular
crow-to-elevator mix.
</p>
<p style="text-align: left;">
With minimal crow (up to around 4%) the system emulates a regular trim lever with range of +/-25% of full travel. With > 4%, the limits are relaxed allowing
for aggressive compensation. Beeps and repeats are handled in the script.<br />
</p>
<div>
<h3 style="text-align: left;">Telemetry screen</h3>
<p style="text-align: left;">
Changes to the compensation curve are reflected in the regular Curves screen. In addition, the script generates a telemetry screen showing (a) the compensation curve, (b) the crow value and (c) the active curve points. The screen is just for information - there is no need to look at it
whilst flying.</p>
<div>
<div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxX0FC1OnBN4WXtcsWxyyzUZHOHd4XWc3P9kIpYR4-wnWlXvGgJNxqUOC4OWU7xDT_bBbfWaYbkUDonB4AfqD15rgJtCjOHzrQg1K8JghCkpyW4J1MTQMiwkcHFlLSZmGifYv_pfHqMIwD/s1600/screenshot_x9d%252B_19-04-22_11-26-53.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="128" data-original-width="424" height="96" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxX0FC1OnBN4WXtcsWxyyzUZHOHd4XWc3P9kIpYR4-wnWlXvGgJNxqUOC4OWU7xDT_bBbfWaYbkUDonB4AfqD15rgJtCjOHzrQg1K8JghCkpyW4J1MTQMiwkcHFlLSZmGifYv_pfHqMIwD/s320/screenshot_x9d%252B_19-04-22_11-26-53.png" width="320" /></a>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">
Telemetry screen (X9D, X9D+, X9E). Vertical bar is crow value.
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; font-family: "times new roman"; letter-spacing: normal; margin-bottom: 0.5em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; orphans: 2; padding: 6px; text-align: center; text-decoration-color: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="text-align: center;">
<div style="margin: 0px;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcOjK0R1jsLRywLa25MKp9mJcn_4TbzPxav5PuOz0LTZphmB56UQ1NeJkkGpI2Rv0I3kT3W3QnLvoHp6Ls1JRMmk42kqoP7sSmYb8_TRK1WN2A3Ee_9vbxTskmH6ovb4_HR85RG-0bL3gx/s1600/screenshot_x12s_19-04-22_11-53-18.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="272" data-original-width="480" height="181" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcOjK0R1jsLRywLa25MKp9mJcn_4TbzPxav5PuOz0LTZphmB56UQ1NeJkkGpI2Rv0I3kT3W3QnLvoHp6Ls1JRMmk42kqoP7sSmYb8_TRK1WN2A3Ee_9vbxTskmH6ovb4_HR85RG-0bL3gx/s320/screenshot_x12s_19-04-22_11-53-18.png" style="cursor: move;" width="320" /></a>
</div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px; padding-top: 4px;">
<div style="margin: 0px;">OpenTx Widget (X10, X12S)</div>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
</div>
<h2 style="text-align: left;">Optimising the curve</h2>
<p style="text-align: left;">
To optimise the compensation curve, the pilot deploys crow incrementally, adjusting the trim as needed. Two or three cycles through the entire range will normally be required.
</p>
<p style="text-align: left;">
With slope soarers and F5J models, optimisation can be accomplished in a
single flight. Thermal soarers may require a couple of flights due to reduced flight time.
</p>
<h2 style="text-align: left;">Video </h2>
<p style="text-align: left;">
Below is a video showing how the system works, and the result of a flight
test in a 40 mph wind. Just to make things difficult, the compensation curve was zeroed
before the flight.
</p>
<div>
<iframe allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" rel="0" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/bzznn_io5J8" width="560"></iframe><br />
<div></div>
<br />
<h2 style="text-align: left;">Download the script</h2>
</div>
<p style="text-align: left;">
The Lua script can be downloaded
<a href="https://rc-soar.com/opentx/lua/adaptivetrim/index.htm">here</a>.
[<i>23 Sept 2020 - version 3 supports all transmitters from the X9-Lite to
the X12S, and clones</i>].
</p>
<div>
<div>
<h2 style="text-align: left;">Acknowledgements</h2>
<p style="text-align: left;">
My thanks to Lothar Thole for the initial port to the X10 and X12S.
Also to MiamiMike, L Shems, and hisroyaldudeness on RC Groups for
their invaluable input.
</p>
<div>
<br />
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com13tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6178637817134212554.post-57652936739234118762019-02-09T16:45:00.007+00:002023-08-26T07:27:35.610+01:00A 3D printed CG scale<p style="text-align: left;">How do you measure the CG of your model? Very likely, you'll be balancing the model over a pair of pivoting arms, or - worse - your fingertips. Well, here's a better way using 3D printed parts and a couple of Arduinos...</p>
<a name='more'></a><h2 style="text-align: left;">CG Scale</h2>
<p style="text-align: left;"><i>CG Scale </i>is an electronic CG scale for F3X sailplanes, designed is Olav Kallhovd from Norway. Olav has released it as an <a href="https://github.com/olkal/CG_scale">open source project on GitHub</a>, so anyone with a soldering iron and access to a 3D printer can make their own. Thank you Olav, for sharing your great design!</p><p style="text-align: left;">
In use, you simply place the model on the scale, and read off the weight and CG position. The model's location on the scale is fixed, making it easy to experiment with different balance weights.</p><div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivQsolBvMHxHASy041DH-_Dtccmr4WNZbzB333mB79XKiJRV82bXrBF4OyMX4YErW1mcEIPx5w8zPWep4fYzWWx8DfgQv27sk_ePBs1XNYAfNkfa399nHFuobFaqxsw9uV7zcwO2d2MpON/s1600/P1140721_Blog.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1118" data-original-width="1600" height="278" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivQsolBvMHxHASy041DH-_Dtccmr4WNZbzB333mB79XKiJRV82bXrBF4OyMX4YErW1mcEIPx5w8zPWep4fYzWWx8DfgQv27sk_ePBs1XNYAfNkfa399nHFuobFaqxsw9uV7zcwO2d2MpON/s400/P1140721_Blog.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Finished scale showing the frame (with covers removed) and display unit.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /><h2 style="text-align: left;">How it works</h2><p style="text-align: left;">
The scale employs a couple of load sensors, some electronics and various 3D printed parts. Calculations for CG and weight are performed by an Arduino microcontroller.</p><p style="text-align: left;">
The largest component is the main frame. Bolted to this are the front and rear load sensors. Just one end of each sensor is fixed; the other end has a support for the wing and hangs free. Embedded in the front cradle is a pair of vertical posts for locating the leading edge.</p><p style="text-align: left;">
Twin sidepods house an Arduino, supporting electronics and a 9V PP3 battery.</p>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrloxxu9OJEf9nKL45plGTNli_VOqP9v65bzUtuGfmYF9yDUDlhtBbPtLCUZe-s3YzvBSsdwazXIBUzOz9OWKwVCxSIw7Xa2Q0EaeTMG2moDwPFZD0rFlxL5_-rs3EJltzaJPFCyzPLua0/s1600/P1140921_Blog.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="858" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrloxxu9OJEf9nKL45plGTNli_VOqP9v65bzUtuGfmYF9yDUDlhtBbPtLCUZe-s3YzvBSsdwazXIBUzOz9OWKwVCxSIw7Xa2Q0EaeTMG2moDwPFZD0rFlxL5_-rs3EJltzaJPFCyzPLua0/s400/P1140921_Blog.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Load cell cover removed, showing fixed part of each load cell bolted to frame.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /><p style="text-align: left;">
There is a separate display unit comprising an LCD panel and - depending on the type of display - either an I2C board or a second Arduino. The display unit connects to the frame via a 3-wire cable.</p>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgE4spxVilRK-oCcJtMR79wMNYNvRJpt6vnRBI4CYgdiw5Sl3ObDUAkKgGljDTHsOB4N_rlNYw-q9Z16HNAbB0s00LYOETxDJoiOa8v6TfI4MdyLwPHd9j3IUIILJRyg40dvwA-UlEaX6y7/s1600/P1140843_Blog.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="906" data-original-width="1600" height="226" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgE4spxVilRK-oCcJtMR79wMNYNvRJpt6vnRBI4CYgdiw5Sl3ObDUAkKgGljDTHsOB4N_rlNYw-q9Z16HNAbB0s00LYOETxDJoiOa8v6TfI4MdyLwPHd9j3IUIILJRyg40dvwA-UlEaX6y7/s400/P1140843_Blog.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Parts of the display unit. There's an Arduino lurking under the LCD panel!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<h2 style="text-align: left;">
Construction</h2><p style="text-align: left;">
The first step is to download the project files - these include the STL files for printing the plastic parts, a bill of materials, photos, circuit diagrams and Arduino code.</p><p style="text-align: left;">
I printed out the plastic parts with a Creality CR10 Mini printer using PLA filament. The frame took longest to print - around 9 hours.</p><p style="text-align: left;">
The sensor and electronic components are available from eBay, Amazon and other suppliers. The Arduinos vary in price - the cheap ones I got work fine. The Arduino site has some excellent introductory material.</p><p style="text-align: left;">
The load sensors are designated "YZC-133". These are available in various ratings - I purchased two 3kg units. It's important that the sensors are mounted flat and perfectly aligned. Unfortunately the mounting holes on one of my sensors were slightly off-centre which caused it to tilt slightly when bolted to the frame - resolved by reworking the holes in the frame. Similarly, the four wing support pads must lie precisely in the same plane.</p>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibpsf96RgckTzlADM4IwyZQXu03RubENQyvbzErVAp2SrRW7iMWD8kbixJdeMr51hsuMRwFPUu4n92J0o38sl5uCdv1QUwtWCLA7FOxzelio-M20w78_-pqplMwpRVxCzxQ1uzGMxDNa1Q/s1600/2019-02-12_075731.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="173" data-original-width="354" height="195" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibpsf96RgckTzlADM4IwyZQXu03RubENQyvbzErVAp2SrRW7iMWD8kbixJdeMr51hsuMRwFPUu4n92J0o38sl5uCdv1QUwtWCLA7FOxzelio-M20w78_-pqplMwpRVxCzxQ1uzGMxDNa1Q/s400/2019-02-12_075731.png" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">YZC-133 load cell. One half is bolted to the frame, the other carries the cradle.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<p style="text-align: left;">Also required are a couple of amplifiers for the load sensors. The ones I obtained are marked 'Keyes 234'. These are longer than the ones shown in Olav's photos, and I had to file some material from the ends to get them to fit in the enclosure.</p>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh50EmhR2W9CdIeGqlLXoP_VlrSgrT0GeAWqUw7W7vrMKxhLBaCB16OSA8Xio0FjkV1a26EcMz88bi94ZpGy31Z5EoVAJP_hQPfGFwdrP_hWrCl9YQUVn58L7YVdSqMOaRJ43FqvOydOs0a/s1600/P1140758_Blog.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1202" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh50EmhR2W9CdIeGqlLXoP_VlrSgrT0GeAWqUw7W7vrMKxhLBaCB16OSA8Xio0FjkV1a26EcMz88bi94ZpGy31Z5EoVAJP_hQPfGFwdrP_hWrCl9YQUVn58L7YVdSqMOaRJ43FqvOydOs0a/s400/P1140758_Blog.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Main compartment showing load cell amplifiers (red boards), and Arduino Pro Mini.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
<br /></div>
<h2 style="text-align: left;">
Display unit</h2><p style="text-align: left;">
The LCD panel is a generic 1602 (16 character/2 line) device. These are sold in two versions, with or without an I2C board.</p></div><div><p style="text-align: left;">
My panel came without an I2C board, which meant that I had to use a second Arduino plus all the extra wiring. To get it all to fit, I had to drop the bottom of the enclosure by 2.5 mm. Fortunately Olav has published a STEP file, allowing the design to be modified using Fusion 360 or similar.</p>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyEI-FePheD1EaNp7PTDI41lFxjM-5NghoAgRDvxr5jcoAzZJ8A4j0f2YycOs8DKid3tKVvi1Z57FZkDcOkyI7S9UWHdo0PxDYkOmib-c5KPFwYqUQTUo9L9pObDaoKhdwrTuBrG0pgsVl/s1600/P1140854_Blog.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="823" data-original-width="1600" height="205" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyEI-FePheD1EaNp7PTDI41lFxjM-5NghoAgRDvxr5jcoAzZJ8A4j0f2YycOs8DKid3tKVvi1Z57FZkDcOkyI7S9UWHdo0PxDYkOmib-c5KPFwYqUQTUo9L9pObDaoKhdwrTuBrG0pgsVl/s400/P1140854_Blog.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">LCD panel (non-I2C version) and Arduino. Note fiddly wiring!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<h4></h4><h2 style="text-align: left;">First switch on!</h2>
<div><p style="text-align: left;">
With construction over, it was time try apply power and stand well back. To my relief, nothing exploded, and the roof is still intact. There wasn't even any smoke!</p><p style="text-align: left;">
There was just one issue: the battery voltage didn't show during the startup process. I modified the main sketch to add a short delay before writing to the display, and this cured the problem.</p>
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
<span style="font-family: "courier new", courier, monospace;">delay(500); // allow display to initialise<br />Serial.begin(9600);</span></blockquote><p style="text-align: left;">
For viewing and uploading the Arduino code (called 'sketches') I used the excellent web-based development environment. It's easy to use, even for an Arduino newbie like me.</p></div><h2 style="text-align: left;">Calibration</h2><p style="text-align: left;">
The last task is to calibrate the cells. The calibration constants are stored in memory, and documentation is a little thin here. The way I did it was to initialise the calibration constants to 1000. I then applied some known weights to each cradle, and noted the displayed values. I then amended the constants to display the weight in grams.</p><p style="text-align: left;">
One nice thing is that placement of calibration weights isn't at all critical, it seems that the load cells are very good at responding to sheer stresses only, while rejecting bending moments.</p>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgK4aLTY867bSGIvDEJ9PjSr6mDr0zGfiP3_MNLkGHfo2t_VKwuQQxgUnv7ru8zP29JpeDjHnBEa1bV_LElCIPK7s_umWY5BIN7N1TSMkKne0kUgmDAFB5JDSJ405-HHMMyFRv3RHbvgTVk/s1600/P1140781_Blog.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1202" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgK4aLTY867bSGIvDEJ9PjSr6mDr0zGfiP3_MNLkGHfo2t_VKwuQQxgUnv7ru8zP29JpeDjHnBEa1bV_LElCIPK7s_umWY5BIN7N1TSMkKne0kUgmDAFB5JDSJ405-HHMMyFRv3RHbvgTVk/s400/P1140781_Blog.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Measuring the empty weight and CG of my Stribog</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<h4>
</h4>
<h4>
</h4>
<h4>
</h4>
<h4></h4><h2 style="text-align: left;">Conclusion</h2>
<div><p style="text-align: left;">
My unit works very well. Readings have been accurate and repeatable, over a range of ambient temperatures. Just a couple of niggles: the default cradles are quite narrow, so you may want to find an STL file for a wider version for anything other than the more recent F3X models. Also the battery life using the default PP3 is quite short, just a couple of hours.</p><p style="text-align: left;">
Total cost including all hardware was around £40. If you can't or don't want to build your own, the CG scale can be purchased ready made from <a href="https://www.t9hobbysport.com/">T9</a>.</p></div><p style="text-align: left;">
All in all, this has been a fascinating project, albeit more time consuming than anticipated. Best of all, CG measurement is now a pleasure instead of a chore!</p>
<h2 style="text-align: left;">
Links</h2>
<a href="https://github.com/olkal/CG_scale">CG Scale project page</a> (Github)<br />
<a href="https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?2917114-CG-Scale-geek-way">Build thread</a> (RC Groups)<br />
<a href="https://www.arduino.cc/">Arduino</a></div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6178637817134212554.post-25884337131213901102018-11-26T00:17:00.002+00:002020-07-03T00:53:11.372+01:00A 3D-printed case for the RX6RFrSky's latest <a href="http://rc-soar.blogspot.com/2018/10/frsky-rx6r-tiny-full-range-6ch-receiver.html">RX6R receiver</a> is a great little unit - except for one thing: the 'case' is just a flimsy cardboard wrapper. Okay for a foamie perhaps, but not much good for anything else.<br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhv92QL1qc4uSebU3WuzdHLQkHRje_GpWrQavp18-B4aJMVygZ6SF-q94yYuvrh8weXdqJaO88jWfz07M3hyFk53mtVM9-oo3tU63lB8U4RMQmo2NtrQbYIZ5F-dwIYMFOla2VP70GuqSap/s1600/IMGP8210_sRGB.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1500" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhv92QL1qc4uSebU3WuzdHLQkHRje_GpWrQavp18-B4aJMVygZ6SF-q94yYuvrh8weXdqJaO88jWfz07M3hyFk53mtVM9-oo3tU63lB8U4RMQmo2NtrQbYIZ5F-dwIYMFOla2VP70GuqSap/s400/IMGP8210_sRGB.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">RX6R with flimsy wrapper. Note exposed conductors!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
So, as my first 3D printing project, I decided to print a simple case for it. It would completely replace the wrapper, and there would be an access hole for the bind button. However, I decided to omit a hole for the multi-function socket as I wouldn't be needing access and it would only complicate the design.<br />
<br />
<h4>
RX6R case version 1</h4>
The first task was to create a 3D model. For this I chose <a href="https://www.tinkercad.com/">TinkerCad</a>, a simple CAD program which is free and runs in a browser. Thanks to some good tutorials I soon had something resembling a case:<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2rXlxmprfqxwNoP3I1cSlyGdiYc8YxJBvNY_zJNTNnZyUN_TM4gm-JkR91aFlfSJiR9trYosN_gf2354k9WPmQ4i9Iwfs8nAFfmWTE1JTO-u5arjzUKwSbJCTiluoaWYcbzW8yaa0J6Fw/s1600/RX6R+Case+III+-+Copy.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="811" data-original-width="1404" height="230" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2rXlxmprfqxwNoP3I1cSlyGdiYc8YxJBvNY_zJNTNnZyUN_TM4gm-JkR91aFlfSJiR9trYosN_gf2354k9WPmQ4i9Iwfs8nAFfmWTE1JTO-u5arjzUKwSbJCTiluoaWYcbzW8yaa0J6Fw/s400/RX6R+Case+III+-+Copy.png" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">TinkerCad work in progress</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
As I didn't yet have my own printer, I took the STL file to friend and local printer guru Pete Houghton. He used a 'slicer' program to convert the 3D model to <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/G-code">G-code</a>. The G-code was output to his printer and in less than 15 minutes my little case was born.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1KKC6YCMESayNPRrNrHOrVNWuXvWMRFqzVpJDtmPhJXFrHzNwuZorkNL4ibeKRKK2TMpUTZhqX8OvmpFybn5nxcDIScPOhkeElnNr0sW1NJhJUY7K2DKiJ9lMQ5MjyA0BE0T1wDsCjQdk/s1600/P1140083_1600px.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1201" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1KKC6YCMESayNPRrNrHOrVNWuXvWMRFqzVpJDtmPhJXFrHzNwuZorkNL4ibeKRKK2TMpUTZhqX8OvmpFybn5nxcDIScPOhkeElnNr0sW1NJhJUY7K2DKiJ9lMQ5MjyA0BE0T1wDsCjQdk/s320/P1140083_1600px.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">First steps!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
A milestone had been reached - my receiver had a proper case, and I had discovered the joys of 3D printing!<br />
<br />
<h4>
RX6R case version 2</h4>
<div>
The first version was functional, however it wasn't a perfect fit, and it was somewhat lacking in style. So I decided to redesign it from scratch, this time using <a href="https://www.autodesk.co.uk/products/fusion-360">Fusion 360</a>. This software has some cool features missing in Tinkercad, for example you can add fillets and chamfers very easily.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLlOQCkw-hG-fJf1nl0axbPiFf9v8IwKfV87bimyqLx2YJKuU_cUme0VCEC5G91307hHPcs4Zr6WkvEzoYXs_-485w2eHet3m7g_Yu6IBPGP2mUoDv-BcpV5VnSC2fLktH84w3So1aEIq0/s1600/2019-01-19_115616.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="736" data-original-width="1032" height="285" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLlOQCkw-hG-fJf1nl0axbPiFf9v8IwKfV87bimyqLx2YJKuU_cUme0VCEC5G91307hHPcs4Zr6WkvEzoYXs_-485w2eHet3m7g_Yu6IBPGP2mUoDv-BcpV5VnSC2fLktH84w3So1aEIq0/s400/2019-01-19_115616.png" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Version 2 in Fusion 360. Note rounded vertical edges.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
By now I had also acquired my own entry level printer (a Creality CR10 Mini). This allowed me to experiment at leisure, and after a couple of iterations I arrived at the final design:<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZLTeSLa9Aaz_kgyKMovQ2_7WJWZiP1Y2wgmy5m7EOJyd0nez8rbaf9s_QP81DYiyVMp8cKfCzXWbcE9EleDaT3b6sZBz12HB4cKEuxhEOEIEd6LI7BztrttjgeVyOeCVcTY8DdK1luYmh/s1600/P1130578_2048px.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1202" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZLTeSLa9Aaz_kgyKMovQ2_7WJWZiP1Y2wgmy5m7EOJyd0nez8rbaf9s_QP81DYiyVMp8cKfCzXWbcE9EleDaT3b6sZBz12HB4cKEuxhEOEIEd6LI7BztrttjgeVyOeCVcTY8DdK1luYmh/s400/P1130578_2048px.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Version 2 of the case</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
The final task was to install the RX6R, with its new case, in my <a href="http://rc-soar.blogspot.com/2018/07/stribog-first-impressions.html">Stribog</a>. The new receiver sits above all the cabling with room to spare.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw5x7tA1uHONQRuxO92Vcj8mYHbnZbC9xFxtPkyurn1_yTTdzljDsGkihHBH8Khc5lae8a438pfTLkxN6th5VBcHpIcB8pCb0hjA95xF0uDCzYgdWM5K3-xRrav_Y8x2TKPTljTVi80ZMI/s1600/P1130904-Edit_1600px.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="719" data-original-width="1600" height="178" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw5x7tA1uHONQRuxO92Vcj8mYHbnZbC9xFxtPkyurn1_yTTdzljDsGkihHBH8Khc5lae8a438pfTLkxN6th5VBcHpIcB8pCb0hjA95xF0uDCzYgdWM5K3-xRrav_Y8x2TKPTljTVi80ZMI/s400/P1130904-Edit_1600px.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">RX6R + case + Y-lead installed in Stribog. Red gismo next to servo is magnetic switch.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
As always, there's a downside: since I was using all six outputs, a Y-lead was required for the battery. However it was worth the extra few minutes with a soldering iron.<br />
<br />
<h4>
Download STL file</h4>
The STL file for the RX6R case is available on <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3301838">Thingiverse</a>. <i>Please note that FrSky have produced two versions of this rx, both based on the same v1 board but with the servo pins soldered on different sides. The case is for the version with the servo pins on the same side as the bind button (see comments).</i><br />
<br />
<h4>
In conclusion</h4>
This little project has been a great intro to 3D printing. For anyone wanting to get started with 3D design, I can recommend TinkerCad, moving on to Fusion 360 as experience is gained. Both applications are free for non-commercial use. The videos by Angus Deveson ('<a href="https://www.youtube.com/user/TheMakersMuse">Maker's Muse</a>' on YouTube) are well worth a look.<br />
<br />
My next project is this <a href="https://github.com/olkal/CG_scale">digital CG scale</a> published by Olav Kalhovd.</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6178637817134212554.post-18487819361544068512018-10-16T12:41:00.002+01:002023-08-26T11:29:29.715+01:00Ahi 1.0: an OpenTx template for aerobatic slopers<p style="text-align: left;">I've just added a new setup to my library of soaring templates. It's for 4-channel aerobatic slope soarers like the Ahi, Phase 6, Voltij etc. </p>
<a name='more'></a><p style="text-align: left;"><i>Ahi v1.0 </i>offers four flight modes, dual rates (including for snapflap), as well as in-flight adjustment of snapflap, diff, camber and reflex. Also included is a special CAL mode for quick setup. Full documentation is provided.</p>
<div><p style="text-align: left;">Compared with the F3X templates, <i>Ahi</i> is relatively simple and would serve as a learning aid for OpenTx or EdgeTX. </p><p style="text-align: left;">
For more info and download link, head off to <a href="http://rc-soar.com/opentx/setups/ahi/index.htm">OpenTx Clinic</a>.</p></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3fmVfDe_z5WYtHyX0YAP5xfK1TBCE5SoWVEQtwCBdstIqgsVGpX6rmd0QMgGC2qnEmvn6bRsk36yWb1sViFial9dpoR3uDs1mEIr0IW9NgKyFhdYWrueC6bKY3Iogc9TlYzeXi7zvVwEk/s1600/P1020275-Edit_sRGB.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="955" data-original-width="1600" height="237" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3fmVfDe_z5WYtHyX0YAP5xfK1TBCE5SoWVEQtwCBdstIqgsVGpX6rmd0QMgGC2qnEmvn6bRsk36yWb1sViFial9dpoR3uDs1mEIr0IW9NgKyFhdYWrueC6bKY3Iogc9TlYzeXi7zvVwEk/s400/P1020275-Edit_sRGB.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Clubmate Sean Bannister launching his Ahi at Ivinghoe Beacon. <br />
Sean achieved silver in the 1981 F3B World Champs,<br />
as well as designing the iconic <i>Algebra</i>.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
<br /></div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6178637817134212554.post-79844968993911403612018-10-01T13:29:00.000+01:002019-11-10T11:35:06.706+00:00Frsky RX6R - a tiny full range 6CH receiverThe FrSky RX6R sounds like the answer to a lot of pilots' prayers - a receiver small enough to fit in a Pitbull or Stribog without looking as if it's been jammed in with a hammer! What's more, the RX6R is claimed to offer 40% more range than X-series receivers. Sounds too good to be true? Let's find out... <i>[note: updated 18 Oct 2018]</i><br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
The RX6R is a very small unit - both shorter and narrower than the already small X4R, yet with support for 6 PWM channels, or 16 channels on S.Bus.<br />
<br />
The original idea was to put it in <a href="http://rc-soar.blogspot.com/2018/07/stribog-first-impressions.html">my Stribog</a> to replace the X8R which is too tight a fit. However it comes with a flimsy card wrapper. A hard case would be far preferable, even at the expense of slightly increased dimensions.<br />
<br />
One slight drawback: for models using all 6 PWM channels, a Y-lead is needed in order to share one of the outputs with the battery.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyAgEcuQgg4h-P1CwD-sCNf2rpZ21uIzDcv9YdZhCfAs8gVpzhDSDEk_347yM5g7AqqxpPznp5NPujn2KOYOdKsk7bvpE0FR1rxqWMB_WFcp62WA1eTWjOOytljVUtKHcx2P46xfJEsk3U/s1600/IMGP8202_1600px.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyAgEcuQgg4h-P1CwD-sCNf2rpZ21uIzDcv9YdZhCfAs8gVpzhDSDEk_347yM5g7AqqxpPznp5NPujn2KOYOdKsk7bvpE0FR1rxqWMB_WFcp62WA1eTWjOOytljVUtKHcx2P46xfJEsk3U/s320/IMGP8202_1600px.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Size comparison: X8R and RX6R</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
I noticed that the soldering of the output pins to the upper board was inconsistent - some pins were soldered all the way through the through-plated holes, but most weren't (see photos).<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0F1OTQF2Tq97OOTFNDQumifb88UC2zjW95LUCuzoI4gKrLQ07BsyUmsvCs4UM52Iz154IZSQVTbiApnFitFIguaemPgpKDSHoM-NeVDntvZC-Pbueqf3jgi4SJgTj5G0LT15Hc1FHmu8S/s1600/IMGP8210_1600px.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0F1OTQF2Tq97OOTFNDQumifb88UC2zjW95LUCuzoI4gKrLQ07BsyUmsvCs4UM52Iz154IZSQVTbiApnFitFIguaemPgpKDSHoM-NeVDntvZC-Pbueqf3jgi4SJgTj5G0LT15Hc1FHmu8S/s320/IMGP8210_1600px.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tiny bind button is at lower right</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Binding to my X9D+ was straightforward and I soon had it working on <a href="http://rc-soar.blogspot.com/2017/05/checking-out-your-new-frsky-transmitter.html">my RSSI testing rig</a>. Unfortunately, this is when things didn't go as hoped - the RX6R reported lower RSSI values compared with the X4R receiver which I use as a reference. There were two possible reasons: either my RX6R was faulty, or the RSSI values meant something different.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI-lBUw-7-LEPSK1Pd10zVkawr1HZWMeTHqhbDTYdIrGrsdll-RCKzgmkT9glk7VIwsWCtUm1LKfK3BV5_gB2Y3m-ocV7Snlgn00nWIPSLCrL7S90DFChlgEt85c1ZveEdv2Xryzi-peir/s1600/IMGP8214_1600px.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI-lBUw-7-LEPSK1Pd10zVkawr1HZWMeTHqhbDTYdIrGrsdll-RCKzgmkT9glk7VIwsWCtUm1LKfK3BV5_gB2Y3m-ocV7Snlgn00nWIPSLCrL7S90DFChlgEt85c1ZveEdv2Xryzi-peir/s320/IMGP8214_1600px.jpg" style="cursor: move;" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Side view showing S.Bus/Smartport/AnalogIn2 port</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
A quick email to T9, and an equally quick response suggested that I return the unit. I am currently waiting for a replacement and will update this post. Incidentally, I was lucky to have the support of a local dealer. Please support yours - they depend on you, and you never know when you might need them!<br />
<br />
<i>Update 18 Oct 2018: </i>The replacement works fine.<br />
<i>Update 16 Jan 2019: </i>I've made a <a href="https://rc-soar.blogspot.com/2018/11/a-3d-printed-case-for-rx6r.html">3D printed case</a>, and the receiver is now installed in the Stribog. Three sessions so far and it all works perfectly.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6178637817134212554.post-67394311516092338002018-09-15T15:24:00.051+01:002024-03-03T15:50:59.426+00:00Adaptable ballast spreadsheets, using array formulaeAs airframes get stronger and skinnier, the ballast arrangements get ever more complex. Many F3F models carry wing ballast, joiner ballast, and optional steel joiners. Generating a ballast chart to stick on your trannie box can be a bit of a challenge!<div><br /></div><div>This post describes how to construct a ballast spreadsheet using a generic structure which is easy to adapt for specific models.</div><div><br />
<a name='more'></a><h3 style="text-align: left;">Background</h3>The story starts a couple of years ago Pierre sent me his ballast sheet for the Needle 115.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXSZyD13XWpIUAL4MYQiU6zpyalwAQSlURuLY7tqXKEhjw4hAX8VD9n5XjO2Kvg2UPWIpavHnC_NDSWwsZG46RY3u8iODJepi6A56CuBKbDBsX_Q3vpIkbsO4EpEtlofPVeCAkwaAt7TzW/s1600/P1090123_1600px.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="818" data-original-width="1600" height="203" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXSZyD13XWpIUAL4MYQiU6zpyalwAQSlURuLY7tqXKEhjw4hAX8VD9n5XjO2Kvg2UPWIpavHnC_NDSWwsZG46RY3u8iODJepi6A56CuBKbDBsX_Q3vpIkbsO4EpEtlofPVeCAkwaAt7TzW/s400/P1090123_1600px.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Needle 115 ballast and spacers</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />I found it useful and decided to try and adapt it for my Stribog. Unfortunately, the Excel formulae would break as columns were added or removed - and fixing them was tiresome.</div><div><br /></div><div>To get round this, I decided to restructure the spreadsheet to make it more adapatable. I also used Excel's powerful <a href="https://support.office.com/en-us/article/guidelines-and-examples-of-array-formulas-7d94a64e-3ff3-4686-9372-ecfd5caa57c7" style="font-style: italic;">array formulae</a> to simplify the equations.</div><div><br /></div><div>With the new spreadsheet, I was able to add and remove columns easily, and adapt it for other models. Let’s now look at the techniques involved.<div>
<br />
<h3 style="text-align: left;">
Building a generic<i> </i>spreadsheet</h3>
<div>
<div>
The basic idea is to treat the model as a collection of <i>components</i>. A component is any discrete part of the model which weighs something, including the airframe itself. Each component has the following values associated</div><div><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Wt - the weight of the component</li><li>CG - centre of gravity referenced from the wing root leading edge</li><li>QTY - number of parts (eg slugs). The QTY of each component will define a particular ballast configuration.</li></ul>As far as the spreadsheet is concerned, all components are treated equally. </div><div><br /><h3 style="text-align: left;">Identifying the components</h3></div><div>The first task is to identify the components in your particular model - these will end up as columns in the spreadsheet. Here are some example components:</div><div>
<br />
<u><b>The empty model</b></u><br />
The <i>empty model</i> is a mandatory component. Its properties are:</div>
<div>
<div>
<ul>
<li>CG = distance of cg from root leading edge</li>
<li>Wt = weight of empty model</li>
<li>QTY=1</li></ul>
<div>The CG can be measured with your favourite CG scale. </div><div><br /></div>
<u><b>Wing ballast</b></u><br />
Wing ballast is normally carried in pockets aligned perpendicular to the fuselage axis. The ballast items all share the same cg, so can be represented by a single component:<br />
<ul>
<li>CG = distance of ballast pocket to root leading edge</li>
<li>Wt = weight of a slug</li>
<li>QTY = number of slugs in the pocket. Fractions can be used to represent non-standard slugs or spacers.</li></ul><div><br /></div><div><u><b>Fuselage ballast slug</b></u><br />Fuselage ballast comprises a number of slugs arranged in line along the fuselage axis. Each slug has its own cg relative to the wing root leading edge, and therefore counts as a single component:</div><ul><li>CG = centre of slug, from root leading edge.</li><li>Wt = weight of slug</li><li>QTY = 1 (slug) or x% (spacer)</li></ul><div>The CG of the slug can be calculated given the slug position, the location of the tube, and the length of a slug. If the spacers have a significant weight, then these can be modelled by entering their weight as a percentage of the slug weight.</div><div><br /></div><div>
<u><b>Other items</b></u><br />The same idea can be used to represent nose weight, steel joiners etc.<br />
<br />
<h3 style="text-align: left;">Equations for weight and cg</h3><div>Now that we have identified all the components of the model, we can do some calculations. The key outputs are total weight and overall CG. </div><div><br /></div><div>The weight is the sum of the individual component weights:</div><div><br />
<b><span style="color: #38761d;"><span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;">Total weight = SUM(Wt</span><sub style="font-family: "courier new", courier, monospace;">1</sub><span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;">*</span><span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;">QTY</span><sub style="font-family: "courier new", courier, monospace;">1</sub><span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"> + ... + Wt</span><sub style="font-family: "courier new", courier, monospace;">N</sub><span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;">*QTY</span><sub style="font-family: "courier new", courier, monospace;">N</sub><span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;">)</span></span></b><br />
<br />
The overall CG is the sum of the moments, divided by the total weight:</div><div><br />
<div>
<b><span style="color: #38761d;"><span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;">CG<span style="font-size: 13.3333px;"> </span></span><span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;">= SUM(Wt</span><sub style="font-family: "courier new", courier, monospace;">1</sub><span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;">*CG</span><sub style="font-family: "courier new", courier, monospace;">1</sub><span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;">*QTY</span><sub style="font-family: "courier new", courier, monospace;">1</sub><span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"> + ... + Wt</span><sub style="font-family: "courier new", courier, monospace;">N</sub><span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;">*CG</span><sub style="font-family: "courier new", courier, monospace;">N</sub><span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;">*QTY</span><sub style="font-family: "courier new", courier, monospace;">N</sub><span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;">)/Total weight</span></span></b><br /><br /></div><h3 style="text-align: left;">Converting the equations to Excel formulae</h3><div>The equations can be represented in Excel using two types of formula:</div>
<ul>
<li><i>Standard</i> formula - these are what most Excel users will be familiar with. </li>
<li><i>Array</i> or '<i>CSE' </i>formula - these operate on whole cell ranges</li>
</ul>Here's an example using the standard style. <br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-u4-cv6-H4C7z9WtRmiJ7TJDwH6wiFCnDTS7DQMM3KMkeBz0go1ewaw11ypokcEZXLx9TkX_GheM9Rmy_lKCFPo7GN6c1-omKTTQKdDznmfeZHjq-m_65fIcGoouKV6MJbqtRNaNKPjQ3/s1600/2018-09-15_110420.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="90" data-original-width="583" height="61" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-u4-cv6-H4C7z9WtRmiJ7TJDwH6wiFCnDTS7DQMM3KMkeBz0go1ewaw11ypokcEZXLx9TkX_GheM9Rmy_lKCFPo7GN6c1-omKTTQKdDznmfeZHjq-m_65fIcGoouKV6MJbqtRNaNKPjQ3/s400/2018-09-15_110420.png" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Typical CG calculation using standard Excel syntax</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div><br /></div><div>The formula is tricky to construct and breaks easily. </div><div><br /></div><div>By contrast, here's a CG calculation using array formulae (note the enclosing braces {}). </div><div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikobqovtdZS2yEzXveI7ReepCwDTu0qO5TejrV96UHgo0iWteop1JQgrTHy__pzN4w3yDf7k6JGPM8UbhU0ArlWrgqSr5QCWj21-KNXrfyURMI7sgLplx0S6tYnwGCUWfu3ED9CjFczmsI/s1600/2018-09-15_114334.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="31" data-original-width="346" height="35" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikobqovtdZS2yEzXveI7ReepCwDTu0qO5TejrV96UHgo0iWteop1JQgrTHy__pzN4w3yDf7k6JGPM8UbhU0ArlWrgqSr5QCWj21-KNXrfyURMI7sgLplx0S6tYnwGCUWfu3ED9CjFczmsI/s400/2018-09-15_114334.png" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">CG calculation using array formula</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br /></div><div>This form is concise and easy to construct. Each term represents a range of Wt, QTY or CG cells. </div><div><br /></div><div>Building an array formula is fairly straightforward. Select the ranges by clicking on the first cell and shift-clicking on the last (the lengths of the QTY, Wt and CG cell ranges must match). To make it an <i>array </i>formula, terminate with Ctrl+Shift+Enter. Curly braces {} are added automatically to show it's an array formula. </div><div>
<br />A good way to get up to speed is to play with the spreadsheets linked at the end. For a deeper insight, see <a href="https://support.office.com/en-us/article/guidelines-and-examples-of-array-formulas-7d94a64e-3ff3-4686-9372-ecfd5caa57c7">array formula examples and guidelines</a>. </div><div><br /></div><div><div><i>Note the use of the '$' reference prefix - this designates an absolute reference, so that the formula doesn't break if the ranges are changed.</i></div><div><br /></div></div><div><h3 style="text-align: left;">Spreadsheet structure </h3><div>My spreadsheets comprise two blocks, one for inputs and one for the simulation. A beige background denotes a user-editable cell.</div><div><br /></div><div>Here's an example for the Needle 115:</div><div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkAodBCJ9cqcNA38hPFoILlxHwe-SFuF8TA_Vs-VcxcxEJsJ0LX8lPEaZpHjs9eP4aFsQa3y9fPfnJhyphenhyphenAW4Y3E3XUbDkb0C-8I4LQgsi9xUwi4SiMm8JsNwO5tLyzIxrCJLG_PTJDYR3pj/s1600/2018-10-22_213954.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="707" data-original-width="702" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkAodBCJ9cqcNA38hPFoILlxHwe-SFuF8TA_Vs-VcxcxEJsJ0LX8lPEaZpHjs9eP4aFsQa3y9fPfnJhyphenhyphenAW4Y3E3XUbDkb0C-8I4LQgsi9xUwi4SiMm8JsNwO5tLyzIxrCJLG_PTJDYR3pj/s400/2018-10-22_213954.png" width="396" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption">Layout of spreadsheet for Needle 115</td></tr></tbody></table><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>The upper block contains model data (dimensions and weights). </div><div><br /></div><div>The lower block is where the action is:</div><div><ul><li>The left-most columns represents the components. </li><ul><li>The first two rows contain values for Wt and CG.</li><li>Subsequent rows contains QTY values. These define the ballast configurations.</li></ul><li>The rightmost columns display outputs of CG, total weight, wing loading etc.</li><li>The leftmost column is for the dry model and is mandatory (it's filled with 1's).</li></ul></div></div>
</div>
</div>
<div>
<h4><br /></h4><h3 style="text-align: left;">
Sample spreadsheets</h3>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://rc-soar.com/files/spreadsheets/stribog_mk1_ballast.xlsx">Stribog Mk 1</a> (fuselage ballast)</li>
<li><a href="https://rc-soar.com/files/spreadsheets/stribog_mk1_ballast_and_spacers.xlsx">Stribog Mk 1 with special provision for ballast spacers</a></li>
<li><a href="https://rc-soar.com/files/spreadsheets/N115_ballast.xlsx">Needle 115</a> (wing ballast)</li>
</ul>
<h3 style="text-align: left;"><br /></h3><h3 style="text-align: left;">Spreadsheet apps which support array formulae</h3><div>Array formulae are supported by Excel, Google Sheets (free with your Google account), and OpenOffice. They are not supported by Apple Numbers.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwFbD3UKS-vwVOHZeydNdQ3ToCGg0FJOt6taANL2pymzZqXEU6_5W0Tj84qyIhyphenhyphenrkmQFcKgFbFkvUJOpzvtOIf2378rJqMWwndJIyZRWV6TZt-GipJSoSDf4bcYxmYv5MY3e8G4qQFy7KC/s1600/2018-10-31_093508.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="887" data-original-width="921" height="385" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwFbD3UKS-vwVOHZeydNdQ3ToCGg0FJOt6taANL2pymzZqXEU6_5W0Tj84qyIhyphenhyphenrkmQFcKgFbFkvUJOpzvtOIf2378rJqMWwndJIyZRWV6TZt-GipJSoSDf4bcYxmYv5MY3e8G4qQFy7KC/s400/2018-10-31_093508.png" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stribog spreadsheet opened in Google Sheets</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<h3 style="text-align: left;">
Finally</h3>
<div>
I hope you've found this post useful. In fact the techniques aren't restricted to ballast simulations - I've used a similar spreadsheet to price up combos of modular furniture.</div>
</div>
<div>
<br />
Happy flying!</div>
<div>
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</div></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6178637817134212554.post-46897570877663319662018-09-15T15:17:00.001+01:002019-09-23T10:32:35.678+01:00Photo magic at the Welsh OpenHere's a publicity shot by MKS, using two of my images. It shows Joel West winning the recent <a href="http://rc-soar.com/gallery/2018/welshopen/index.php">Welsh Open</a>. I think their graphic designer has done a rather nice job!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifuzAWn2D-FiUAiu91VZCQZRvH-AvuI5Yfq5IzDNQmbjrQ4ATAEH56mXaA0SGC8V_IX_y1UP8ctnlOVdLQamK2Bv4iGcKOIz_kt0nC18GWnwWloblZprINtXZ5G2Wwz8kmQdUyPJSaMcWu/s1600/MKS_Joel_WelshOpen.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1300" data-original-width="1300" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifuzAWn2D-FiUAiu91VZCQZRvH-AvuI5Yfq5IzDNQmbjrQ4ATAEH56mXaA0SGC8V_IX_y1UP8ctnlOVdLQamK2Bv4iGcKOIz_kt0nC18GWnwWloblZprINtXZ5G2Wwz8kmQdUyPJSaMcWu/s400/MKS_Joel_WelshOpen.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Here are the original images, including the whole of CD Kev Newton (only his arm is visible in the publicity shot, poking out of Joel's right ear!):<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijIJojyS4_ghr4_AEim8NEidi-kKRbE-7JPjgbJIKmW1n5k61T1TCZUWbmck4YvP62Xm28zLc-IAJWdq8luH4nrAtc6-9aMC2brcN2RrrO1oPGCFwCXZIFSx4E3UyInrooTsjnVdka6LNl/s1600/IMGP8063_1400.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="982" data-original-width="1400" height="280" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijIJojyS4_ghr4_AEim8NEidi-kKRbE-7JPjgbJIKmW1n5k61T1TCZUWbmck4YvP62Xm28zLc-IAJWdq8luH4nrAtc6-9aMC2brcN2RrrO1oPGCFwCXZIFSx4E3UyInrooTsjnVdka6LNl/s400/IMGP8063_1400.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEha-LkGRmONmJAuk0MlG8SNd6s0tqq4NeaWVGiWPBNwOam92sZiPfat3Pu3F8TrtDKucYmY7cFoRl3et0KlIL-wlcG9OT7HtXAZx6L4GsOW4mO85vC6YYrxh8lpUl9bnItX6AXMfKIF0UUw/s1600/IMGP7902_1400.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="765" data-original-width="1400" height="217" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEha-LkGRmONmJAuk0MlG8SNd6s0tqq4NeaWVGiWPBNwOam92sZiPfat3Pu3F8TrtDKucYmY7cFoRl3et0KlIL-wlcG9OT7HtXAZx6L4GsOW4mO85vC6YYrxh8lpUl9bnItX6AXMfKIF0UUw/s400/IMGP7902_1400.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6178637817134212554.post-10385923953839631692018-08-17T09:46:00.022+01:002023-10-20T01:20:07.167+01:00A One Minute Guide to F3F<p style="text-align: left;">F3F is the Formula 1 of slope soaring! Or perhaps it's better described as a hill-climb event, since only one person is out at a time (and it does involve climbing hills!). Either way... it's a timed speed event which will test your trimming and flying skills to the max. </p><p style="text-align: left;">Fortunately you don't need a Ferrari to compete - just a glider, a transmitter... and a desire to join in and improve your piloting skills through friendly competition. </p><p style="text-align: left;">In this post, I'll describe briefly what you need to get going, safety checks, and how to enter.</p>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0O9sP8MGzzi7tMOswhV0f2X3BN0loAfHfebXIMNo7R0Llpu3mC3I2u5Mn_dn4fQ5YrdGi1ILV7bYn09yWMKeoGC_0vPdpw4REwDgXRGnda5oMYYmEIn91mNMWV26vjcDdTffWWMzwUhcl/s1600/IMGP3032_2048px.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="620" data-original-width="1600" height="155" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0O9sP8MGzzi7tMOswhV0f2X3BN0loAfHfebXIMNo7R0Llpu3mC3I2u5Mn_dn4fQ5YrdGi1ILV7bYn09yWMKeoGC_0vPdpw4REwDgXRGnda5oMYYmEIn91mNMWV26vjcDdTffWWMzwUhcl/s400/IMGP3032_2048px.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">F3F in action!</td></tr>
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<h2 style="text-align: left;">The rules</h2><p style="text-align: left;">The rules of F3F are simple. After your model is launched (usually by a helper), you have 30 seconds to gain height. Your task is then to fly ten legs of a 100 meter course as fast as possible. Sounds simple.. but it's difficult to do well!</p><p style="text-align: left;">The ends of the course are marked by two bases. At each base, a 'buzzerman' buzzes you into the course, and each time you cross outside the base. </p><p style="text-align: left;"></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisi1Zuoiekp7-QfpTTI82G2qLPysY_EAU1OOSule-vVyZ0-qehaeCyuuky-JvCw_eHzAmAc0g6KURHv2Tk3DqCtHHq2oNsBnQsEFo_1YH8KgPo4zzKz2F-eguNPRrPFmL7VVHs9T1MbwA1/s1600/Turnpath_2048px.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="746" data-original-width="1181" height="252" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisi1Zuoiekp7-QfpTTI82G2qLPysY_EAU1OOSule-vVyZ0-qehaeCyuuky-JvCw_eHzAmAc0g6KURHv2Tk3DqCtHHq2oNsBnQsEFo_1YH8KgPo4zzKz2F-eguNPRrPFmL7VVHs9T1MbwA1/s400/Turnpath_2048px.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rounding a base. The buzzer man hits a button when you reach the base.</td></tr>
</tbody></table><p></p><p style="text-align: left;">After finishing your run, your time is recorded. The fastest time in a round gains 1000 points, with other times scored pro-rata. Several rounds will be normally be flown, and the pilot with the highest aggregate score is the winner.</p><div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxk6Wwt3NXz67dZvugsxxAY-1bXZZgrXdTktoh2kpgnQSY3qcYqwxIF9mhiKVfiRGNLo-OH-8QmGnzosu5IJ5DEwvSabKJZ7a3i0mdYfgSITj-UjPO7SqtKuEk8WRkGuolZoV-OOTS9tF3/s1600/IMGP7140_2048px.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="572" data-original-width="1600" height="142" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxk6Wwt3NXz67dZvugsxxAY-1bXZZgrXdTktoh2kpgnQSY3qcYqwxIF9mhiKVfiRGNLo-OH-8QmGnzosu5IJ5DEwvSabKJZ7a3i0mdYfgSITj-UjPO7SqtKuEk8WRkGuolZoV-OOTS9tF3/s400/IMGP7140_2048px.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sun powered!</td></tr>
</tbody></table><p style="text-align: left;">
Because conditions vary from run to run, you can still achieve respectable scores even if you're new to F3F. Part of the fun is chasing your own personal best. </p><h2 style="text-align: left;">What equipment do I need?</h2><p style="text-align: left;">Ideally you'll want an F3F mouldie, however if you're starting out a smaller 60" model will do fine depending on the slope and condition - just check with the organiser first.</p><p style="text-align: left;">There's no particular favoured brand of radio. If you have an OpenTX transmitter, you may wish to use my <a href="http://rc-soar.com/opentx/setups/f3f/index.htm">F3F template</a>, available free.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmhS3MQ_9xkVwOewvOu1DU06nLRtLh4Ly37c0S0ez6nlr2CvO2V6xd15fMQp1XF_m6ksvnUzLpHFGZ0IyPoywoPQXZkXf6cVMFW9-gTdC0Cq4yuAI1r2I4cuqgjwh5a8iUdGZdui3bzi23/s1600/IMGP6438_2048px.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="795" data-original-width="1600" height="198" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmhS3MQ_9xkVwOewvOu1DU06nLRtLh4Ly37c0S0ez6nlr2CvO2V6xd15fMQp1XF_m6ksvnUzLpHFGZ0IyPoywoPQXZkXf6cVMFW9-gTdC0Cq4yuAI1r2I4cuqgjwh5a8iUdGZdui3bzi23/s400/IMGP6438_2048px.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption">At a recent English Open. Your model could be in there next time!</td></tr></tbody></table><h2 style="text-align: left;">Preparing for a comp</h2><p style="text-align: left;">Safety is paramount - and it starts in the workshop:</p><p style="text-align: left;"></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Check that the model is mechanically sound (linkages, servo mounting etc)</li><li>Check the servos for slop</li><li>Ensure that the transmitter will not require re-programming on the slope!</li><li>The receiver aerials should be installed to maximise signal strength. </li><li>Ensure the batteries are in good shape and fully charged. </li><li>Make sure the model is properly trimmed beforehand, with a known target CG.</li></ul><p></p><p style="text-align: left;">In short, make sure that all the problems are sorted before you set off, so that you can fly safely and with full confidence in your kit.</p></div><div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQHLHwxVbsuVUHl5WSvknMNCd_jHQwN_oh1KLsG7OX_kz2aLCUAcE5Wq2VEqtmBFCK7_UHVDKabslWNFLb7MnrSU_zGPsQphfYpIWWHGXbV_z6z7r39uzUqOeoF1dn7E1zCllN5psDE5nj/s1600/P1080445-Edit_2048px.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="847" data-original-width="1600" height="211" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQHLHwxVbsuVUHl5WSvknMNCd_jHQwN_oh1KLsG7OX_kz2aLCUAcE5Wq2VEqtmBFCK7_UHVDKabslWNFLb7MnrSU_zGPsQphfYpIWWHGXbV_z6z7r39uzUqOeoF1dn7E1zCllN5psDE5nj/s400/P1080445-Edit_2048px.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jean-Luc Foucher with own-design Pinguin and FrSky Q-X7</td></tr>
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<h2 style="text-align: left;">Locations</h2><p style="text-align: left;">
F3F events are typically run over one or two days. Locations include Sussex, S. Wales, Scotland, N. Yorks Moors and Shropshire so you're sure to find a competition within reach of an early start. There's a full list of events on the the <a href="http://www.gbsra.co.uk/f3f-calendar-2018">GBSRA site</a>.</p>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkZlvBKWIdUQ3Gf6slEs3LYa7a_5L5qYVD1DdZRsX-bnRRP5rwzJn2PwHcnmtay4k_C3hiTuSxPUhmbG4M2VMzWkFSpO6VrluQCooP5VodGUi4SHLSJtyaNSN-GDxgORaglYjSLB648Q25/s1600/R0220063-Edit_2048px.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="729" data-original-width="1600" height="181" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkZlvBKWIdUQ3Gf6slEs3LYa7a_5L5qYVD1DdZRsX-bnRRP5rwzJn2PwHcnmtay4k_C3hiTuSxPUhmbG4M2VMzWkFSpO6VrluQCooP5VodGUi4SHLSJtyaNSN-GDxgORaglYjSLB648Q25/s400/R0220063-Edit_2048px.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">F3F is not all just about the flying: Whitby harbour after the comp, 2017</td></tr>
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<h2 style="text-align: left;">
Come along!</h2><p style="text-align: left;">One things for sure - you'll learn more in a day of F3F than in a year of dodging foamies on your club slope! So why not come along to <a href="http://www.gbsra.co.uk/f3f-calendar">one of the events</a> and have a blast?</p>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2fGNnDE2daIuxU110DOK4MK1xzVFm5caikvDwsqlSbysXKHsssIwaPVWVIIqCgHRFH1HberWfsuizPNdo2PO6aXyWdCO_yU0xBWhUdCVw118iHZfxCT8uX6VS13glE8NZyeVOAsO6liVM/s1600/IMGP3366_2048px.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="547" data-original-width="1600" height="136" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2fGNnDE2daIuxU110DOK4MK1xzVFm5caikvDwsqlSbysXKHsssIwaPVWVIIqCgHRFH1HberWfsuizPNdo2PO6aXyWdCO_yU0xBWhUdCVw118iHZfxCT8uX6VS13glE8NZyeVOAsO6liVM/s400/IMGP3366_2048px.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Another run accomplished</td></tr>
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<h2 style="text-align: left;">
Links</h2>
<p style="text-align: left;">
Some useful links:</p>
<div><a href="http://www.gbsra.co.uk/">GBSRA</a> - GB Slope Racing Association, with events calendar</div>
<div>
<a href="https://www.barcs.co.uk/forums/forum/48-f3ff3b/">BARCS forum</a> - competition updates</div>
<div>
<a href="http://kevin-newton.blogspot.com/2001/01/how-to-set-up-racing-glider.html">How to set up a racing glider</a> - by Kevin Newton</div>
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<a href="http://rc-soar.com/email.htm">Contact the author</a><br />
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</div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6178637817134212554.post-90407813335572974292018-07-07T11:49:00.001+01:002020-05-13T10:25:04.813+01:00RTGmodel Stribog reviewAt the end of 2017 I decided to look around for a new F3F machine for the 2018 competition season. After hearing good things about the Stribog I placed an order, and nine weeks later a box arrived at the door - a very large one containing some rather lovely plastic...<br />
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Fast forward... the Stribog has been assembled, tested, and flown [and won] in competition. Has it replaced the Needle 115 as my number one model? Read on!<br />
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<h4>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvidFs_8Hay2_IzkTJB0TmzZ5Bg5YiuF9DxiVLUdfk04j3ord1xF49bq62rYs9B0CX4QaT1OKlglbrXEMR_d_aB73zHRMAHHhgQ3ensz1zSfIx9c2O24wKbpvFNQS8VXzrMHz03xUblQ4k/s1600/RB370333_2048px.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1155" data-original-width="1600" height="288" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvidFs_8Hay2_IzkTJB0TmzZ5Bg5YiuF9DxiVLUdfk04j3ord1xF49bq62rYs9B0CX4QaT1OKlglbrXEMR_d_aB73zHRMAHHhgQ3ensz1zSfIx9c2O24wKbpvFNQS8VXzrMHz03xUblQ4k/s400/RB370333_2048px.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My Stribog at the North of England Open F3F</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<h3>
</h3>
<h3>
Components and unboxing</h3>
The Stribog is made by RTGmodel, perhaps better known as the manufacturers of the Rotmilan. Wing span is 2.9m, for me this hits the sweet spot for F3F. As for that name, well apparently 'Stribog' is the old Slavic god of the winds.<br />
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The model came really well packed - all components were suspended in custom foam inserts. A set of smart wing bags are included in the price.<br />
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Fit and finish were well up to the standards expected, except for some specific issues which I'll describe later.<br />
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<h4>
Fuselage</h4>
The fuselage is beautifully moulded. It features an integral servo tray with holes pre-cut for KST/MKS 12mm servos. An intricately moulded tail cone covers the aft linkages.<br />
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An integral ballast tube receives up to 10 steel slugs (supplied), for a total of 900 g. The optional steel joiner adds an extra 1.2 kg.<br />
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The V-tail surfaces are driven via the usual plastic rod in tube. No clevises were provided, so I used some spare metal ones. Space is quite tight at the back, and it was necessary to grind a little material from the clevises to avoid binding.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0Nvehze5Xf5zarF92v8Wj8i0x0Ao0vKuAR26U4OEZjHkQTTGXm4F6DIHE6TvZBtwkeyUZqMtrSqPclQFU_Zn1ebgq1jTI_yGGjKWgGO15_Wcp0M4BDIH2__vfluSns5sQ2hbrmxsnS32A/s1600/P1070867_2048px.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="941" data-original-width="1600" height="235" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0Nvehze5Xf5zarF92v8Wj8i0x0Ao0vKuAR26U4OEZjHkQTTGXm4F6DIHE6TvZBtwkeyUZqMtrSqPclQFU_Zn1ebgq1jTI_yGGjKWgGO15_Wcp0M4BDIH2__vfluSns5sQ2hbrmxsnS32A/s400/P1070867_2048px.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">V-tail linkage (a moulded cover is provided)</td></tr>
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<h4>
Wings</h4>
The wings are very nicely moulded, any traces of release agent were easily removed with isopropyl alcohol.<br />
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The design is unusual, in that the flaps are are narrower at the root than the tip. This minimises the downward projection of the flaps when full crow is deployed, reducing the chance of damage on landing. It also reduces the turbulent wake over the V-tail when crow is deployed.<br />
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Unusually, the servo bays for the alerons and flaps are next to each other and share a common cover. The servo trays are CNC cut from plywood to suit MKS and KST wing servos in both 'mini' and 'normal' form factors.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh29kxc-eGxOU4wjYcfYTWprD41KlCj2_9kW8Rr5LHD3uI8Li5-ULAnwvphszmr1iftX10ND8LCcliyQ_rMrgk_UIlhwgg0_zdZbpAnkxCNAK-NSukVMDelSNlKB6AlZbl1b2ak1bVJdosT/s1600/P1080496_2048px.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1202" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh29kxc-eGxOU4wjYcfYTWprD41KlCj2_9kW8Rr5LHD3uI8Li5-ULAnwvphszmr1iftX10ND8LCcliyQ_rMrgk_UIlhwgg0_zdZbpAnkxCNAK-NSukVMDelSNlKB6AlZbl1b2ak1bVJdosT/s400/P1080496_2048px.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Root area with steel joiner installed. Incidence holes needed rework.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<h4>
<br />
LDS system</h4>
An LDS drive system is provided, to suit either MKS or KST servos (specified when ordering). The links are pre-cut from 4mm glass sheet. At first glance, all four links appear identical, however the ones for the ailerons are slightly <i>longer</i>. Some filing of the links was needed to prevent them rubbing against the wing skin.<br />
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External bearings are provided - these fit in glass fibre holders which must be glued to the servo mounts. To ensure accurate alignment, I glued the holders with the servo temporarily attached.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcnpQinguO0_MKMUEoFc3Np3_ZGfSaKGWqrQPge-Y5i33iAdLAWdWX8ru74udBbLmvmi3KMRBdpggc3_SZnXhZGOx6lczla19nHfpGdrh7pboIGDFBzNRhP910Cpb5A8RqmnOmZKDd85N9/s1600/P1070825_2048px.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="865" data-original-width="1600" height="216" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcnpQinguO0_MKMUEoFc3Np3_ZGfSaKGWqrQPge-Y5i33iAdLAWdWX8ru74udBbLmvmi3KMRBdpggc3_SZnXhZGOx6lczla19nHfpGdrh7pboIGDFBzNRhP910Cpb5A8RqmnOmZKDd85N9/s400/P1070825_2048px.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Servo tray and LDS assembly. The pencil mark at the left is my filing guide to clear the wing skin.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhib62JSVYcI8UvqZ7xL8PoWmorxCwwgvo3877_WOqhahzGEcMfEtGoMZQCClwFEJVfg8qLkZS1yahF-RYkEqA_O40tYcq8vb4g_pSnmV9WNw8rXmVPCyap3nS8BIi8iSC6S24o4Hi42HIr/s1600/P1070834_2048px.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1037" data-original-width="1600" height="258" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhib62JSVYcI8UvqZ7xL8PoWmorxCwwgvo3877_WOqhahzGEcMfEtGoMZQCClwFEJVfg8qLkZS1yahF-RYkEqA_O40tYcq8vb4g_pSnmV9WNw8rXmVPCyap3nS8BIi8iSC6S24o4Hi42HIr/s400/P1070834_2048px.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Output wheels. Note larger radius (left) for flaps</td></tr>
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</div>
<br />
The links are pinned at the control surfaces by means of 2mm steel rods which slide along pockets under the hinges. The rods are threaded at one end, and extracted using an internally threaded tube (supplied). It's a fiddly job, so it's worth optimising the assembly sequence to minimise the number of extractions (just pretend they're your teeth!).<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-CyNcdNCq3YjmDK2cD21eMAdbpqydgXTbILZxLytRWcjU3z9HIAnZA3N1gAmpAnVMjktP-aCACKkEX_-zqe6GeGVX7aSKv0Jzr8xVrBmLpgCmfi6gE1uJfNnN2WKObczk8QExT_C87xPj/s1600/P1080497_2048px.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="877" data-original-width="1600" height="218" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-CyNcdNCq3YjmDK2cD21eMAdbpqydgXTbILZxLytRWcjU3z9HIAnZA3N1gAmpAnVMjktP-aCACKkEX_-zqe6GeGVX7aSKv0Jzr8xVrBmLpgCmfi6gE1uJfNnN2WKObczk8QExT_C87xPj/s400/P1080497_2048px.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Flap and aileron servos are adjacent</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
In summary, the LDS system required some care and planning, however the result is a solid slop free linkage, and of course it leaves the wing completely clean.<br />
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For the wing/fuselage connection, I opted for a self-mating arrangement using Multiplex green connectors (not supplied).<br />
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<div>
<h4>
</h4>
<h3>
Incidence pin woes</h3>
</div>
While the general quality of the mouldings was excellent, I did experience some issues with the fit of the wings and V-tail. First, the wings refused to slide on to the fuselage, because two of the incidence pins didn't quite match the holes - the discrepancy was small (~0.2mm), but sufficient to be an issue. In the end I used a drill and vertical stand to mill out one side of each hole, with the fuselage supported at the correct dihedral angle. Fortunately I was able to achieve a good fit without the need to back fill the holes.<br />
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A similar problem affected the incidence pegs on one V-tail surface, solved by elongating the holes with a needle file. I also found that the holes in the fuselage for the V-tail joiner were too narrow and needed slight reworking.<br />
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Finally, the control surface hinges were very stiff. I was able to free them by relieving the inside of the hinge, using some glass paper bent around 2mm steel rod. It's worth spending time on this to prevent premature wear on the servos.<br />
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In the end I managed to overcome these issues, and I'm happy with the final result. However it did add to the assembly time.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgymYjpibNwqCHB6Z-kvzJA09Ql8EJUrMqNM1jAhJafX4r41_QVgcJEjQFrFZhS9LexsXbaFU8rZi9_2d2bsYw1kksZfE-qupl3JuBFysnJyvtOBg3iRKyPxae9s2o3PnrxENGrL_Rgpyrt/s1600/P1070862_2048px.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1051" data-original-width="1600" height="262" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgymYjpibNwqCHB6Z-kvzJA09Ql8EJUrMqNM1jAhJafX4r41_QVgcJEjQFrFZhS9LexsXbaFU8rZi9_2d2bsYw1kksZfE-qupl3JuBFysnJyvtOBg3iRKyPxae9s2o3PnrxENGrL_Rgpyrt/s400/P1070862_2048px.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Some custom tools to aid assembly/fettling</td></tr>
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<h4>
</h4>
<h3>
Radio system</h3>
To control the Stribog, I am using my trusty Taranis X9D transmitter with <a href="http://rc-soar.com/opentx/setups/f3f/index.htm">F3F Template V5</a>. In the model are a FrSky X8R receiver, MKS servos and a 2S 18650 LiIon battery.<br />
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With the battery in place, there's precious little space left for the receiver, and care was needed to avoid kinking the antennae. The recently announced <a href="https://rc-soar.blogspot.com/2018/10/frsky-rx6r-tiny-full-range-6ch-receiver.html">RX6R</a> will fit more easily (though it will be necessary to make a Y-lead to connect a battery).<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9mYbXJNz0f2TrKCMWNnPgq7-8CTMqiZloP4xGJAI_1e53TqPmWfSbTTfUrdsk-DZyCOzRs3fy65DiQGzl1Zdl9kUSk6TxlSX_FOlMa9Z_vfihCn0qquXsYDE88QhevVBmtNAxdZQYfzN2/s1600/P1080491_2048px.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="413" data-original-width="1600" height="102" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9mYbXJNz0f2TrKCMWNnPgq7-8CTMqiZloP4xGJAI_1e53TqPmWfSbTTfUrdsk-DZyCOzRs3fy65DiQGzl1Zdl9kUSk6TxlSX_FOlMa9Z_vfihCn0qquXsYDE88QhevVBmtNAxdZQYfzN2/s400/P1080491_2048px.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Radio installation. Ballast tube opening just visible at left.</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br /><div>
A fair amount of noseweight was required, via a combination of a lead casting, and strips of lead around the battery.<br />
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<h3>
Ballast</h3>
Fully assembled and balanced, the weight is 2420g for a loading of 39.8g/dm2. With all ten ballast slugs in place, the loading goes up to 54.5 g/dm2, with neglible CG shift.<br />
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The steel joiner adds an extra 1220g. In order to maintain the CG position, two slugs are required at the rear of the ballast tube. The steel joiner alone provides a loading of 63.3 g/dm2 rising to 70.3 g/dm2 with max fuselage ballast.<br />
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<h3>
Flight testing</h3>
<div>
The maiden session took place at Ivinghoe Beacon in a 10 mph Westerly. Two flights were flown of 50 minutes in total. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinX_ROHxiKELk5RSk9qCH6UytfAPXSrof15oEBX5jhFRkMsEWD8qGr-76dD-Z7YcpMXkCMHEGvjNXIYwABoaWQur_fYIIISvSmpG8WjH9Z2zCoW9ltg43_bj7wepGh5CNU4y1isviF4qBY/s1600/P1080021_2048px.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1427" data-original-width="1600" height="356" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinX_ROHxiKELk5RSk9qCH6UytfAPXSrof15oEBX5jhFRkMsEWD8qGr-76dD-Z7YcpMXkCMHEGvjNXIYwABoaWQur_fYIIISvSmpG8WjH9Z2zCoW9ltg43_bj7wepGh5CNU4y1isviF4qBY/s400/P1080021_2048px.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">During first test session at Ivinghoe</td></tr>
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<div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<div>
Impressions:</div>
<ul>
<li>The model is quick!</li>
<li>The model is sensitive to camber and reflex settings. It's worth getting your presets correctly dialed in.</li>
<li>There was a slight tendency to drop a wing when flying slowly with positive camber. Reducing camber on the ailerons has cured this.</li>
<li>Recommended snapflap travel is pretty large (8mm). I've dialled in some deadband to stop the flaps deflecting during minor pitch corrections.</li>
<li>The crow brakes are beautifully effective. The recommended elevator compensation was spot on at 5mm. </li>
<li>The suggested aileron and elevator rates were far too sensitive for my taste and I've reduced them</li>
</ul>
<h4>
</h4>
<h4>
</h4>
<h4>
</h4>
The second session was in much stronger winds, where the model was really in its element.<br />
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<h4>
</h4>
<h3>
Overall</h3>
The Stribog is now my number one F3F model. [<i>23/8/18</i>: I have since won the <a href="http://rc-soar.com/gallery/2018/eo/index.php">English Open</a> flying this model.]<br />
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I can highly recommend it, with the qualification that you may have to do a little fettling. I understand that the manufacturer also offers a build service.<br />
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Since receiving my Stribog, a 'Plus' version has been released with an ultra-slim fuselage, and ballast in the wing.<br />
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<h4>
Specification (copied from <a href="http://www.rtgmodel.sk/stribog.html">RTG website</a>)</h4>
<div>
<div>
<ul>
<li>Wingspan 2867 mm</li>
<li>Fuselage length 1463 mm<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span></li>
<li>Airfoil HN Straak</li>
<li>Elevator airfoil HN modif.<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span> </li>
<li>Weight 2100 - 3900g/4500g </li>
<li>Total surface: 60.9 dm2</li>
</ul>
</div>
<div>
Price as tested (including optional steel joiner): €1470</div>
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</div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6178637817134212554.post-29630583469403444992018-04-17T14:08:00.002+01:002019-11-10T11:35:42.588+00:00FrSky Q-X7 - an F3F-ready transmitter for £100!The FrSky Q-X7 may not have the looks - or price tag - of a premium radio, but don't let that fool you : it punches well above its weight. In this post I'll highlight key aspects of this transmitter, and explain why slope flyers should give it serious consideration.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEPH61kL33l0L5quGEo08dk7ymmvuiIamMdb30sWcHct-b0_aLuaUTyRl088JcFyqE7zGLBEF3ipQYLSLrEgQcUAUfJyWBRTZ41AvnM5tp1kwcLWDNQhxA450tv4_J0Frmjx1KJCuAvSmL/s1600/q+x7_cr.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="650" data-original-width="681" height="305" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEPH61kL33l0L5quGEo08dk7ymmvuiIamMdb30sWcHct-b0_aLuaUTyRl088JcFyqE7zGLBEF3ipQYLSLrEgQcUAUfJyWBRTZ41AvnM5tp1kwcLWDNQhxA450tv4_J0Frmjx1KJCuAvSmL/s320/q+x7_cr.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">FrSky Taranis Q-X7</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<h4>
</h4>
<h4>
Operating system and features</h4>
The Q-X7 comes with OpenTx already installed. It offers the same programming capability as with the X9D, X10 and X12S. In other words it's extremely flexible.<br />
<div>
<br /></div>
Other features include: external bay for JR-style modules, audio/speech output, vibration alerts, integrated telemetry, and data logging. Pretty darned impressive for a £100 radio!<br />
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<h4>
Widgets</h4>
<h4>
<div style="font-weight: 400;">
The Q-X7 comes with six switches and two rotary knobs, sufficient for most slope soaring applications. If you need more switches, or sliders (for example for my F3J and F5J templates), then you should be looking at the X9D+.<br />
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</h4>
<div>
<h4>
Batteries</h4>
The unit is supplied without batteries. On the positive side, it means you can choose your favourite chemistry (NiMH, or 2/3S Lipo) and use your existing charger. A battery hatch provides access for charging and swapping packs.<br />
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<h4>
Menus</h4>
Due to the smaller screen, the programming menus are organised slightly differently compared with the X9D, X10 and X12S, however all the functions are there. A nice touch is the scroll wheel in place of the +/- buttons on the X9D.<br />
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<h4>
Gimbals</h4>
The gimbals on the Q-X7 are ball raced and equipped with potentiometers. If you really must have the latest Hall gimbals, then you can replace the stock units with a pair of M7s. Alternatively go for the Q-X7S which has these pre-installed.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.frsky-rc.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/x7sm.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="800" height="320" src="https://www.frsky-rc.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/x7sm.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">FrSky Q-X7S - similar to the Q-X7 but with Hall gimbals and angled switches</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<h4>
RF link</h4>
The RF link and supported protocols are the same as that of the X9D Plus.<br />
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<h4>
Ergonomics</h4>
<div>
If I can find a fault, it's in the rather unergonomic shape of the box. Thumb fliers will find the angular form less than optimal, and pushing the stick in the corners is more of a stretch compared with the X9D.</div>
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<h4>
Summary</h4>
All in all, the Q-X7 is an inexpensive but highly capable transmitter. It has all the controls needed for slope soaring, along with the flexibility of OpenTx. The lack of sliders does however limit its use for electric models.<br />
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The Q-X7 supports my free <a href="http://rc-soar.com/opentx/setups/f3f/index.htm">F3F template v5.0</a>. Adrian Chapman Law is planning a return to competitive F3F with this combo, here's his video:<br />
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Here's Ade again, this time dynamic soaring the Tango:<br />
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The total cost of the Tango + Q-X7 is just £900. In conjuction with my F3F template, it makes for an affordable and effective package for F3F - a fact which I hope will encourage more people to dust off their hiking boots, and try out this exciting branch of the hobby.<br />
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<h4>
Links</h4>
<a href="http://rc-soar.com/opentx/setups/f3f/index.htm">F3F Template (OpenTx Clinic)</a><br />
<a href="https://www.frsky-rc.com/product/taranis-q-x7-2/">FrSky QX-7</a>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6178637817134212554.post-60990082506690271842018-02-12T23:39:00.000+00:002018-10-22T23:47:02.472+01:00E-Soar Plus 3.0<i>E-Soar Plus</i>, my template for sport and F5J, has been updated. Version 3.0 offers a choice of three arming methods, plus various other enhancements.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfS9oAQn19CDoAvPHCT6RqjNHGyKHLH62v9Njg8mKmeN4jSsd7_YkAmdDxrEoJ7NfbCH-m5wmGcNHW2p7-3DyoN2D29Bs2t05NhGl4AcNu7H9BDT3SA4UJwQLSJ541P8N6jPnV1X58gFl-/s1600/R0200037_Blog.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="348" data-original-width="560" height="247" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfS9oAQn19CDoAvPHCT6RqjNHGyKHLH62v9Njg8mKmeN4jSsd7_YkAmdDxrEoJ7NfbCH-m5wmGcNHW2p7-3DyoN2D29Bs2t05NhGl4AcNu7H9BDT3SA4UJwQLSJ541P8N6jPnV1X58gFl-/s400/R0200037_Blog.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kev Newton launches Vic Eldridge's MPX Heron at La Muela. Taranis X9D and E-Soar Plus</td></tr>
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<h4>
Arming options</h4>
Previous versions of ESP offered a highly secure arming method however it did not lend itself to disarming and re-lighting the motor whilst flying the model - at least not without putting the model through some potentially terminal aerobatics. Rather than simply replace the old arming method, I set about giving users a choice. So the options now are as follows:<br />
<ul>
<li><i>Arming method 1: </i>this as in previous versions, i.e. <a href="http://rc-soar.blogspot.co.uk/2015/05/motor-switch-arming-demo.html">'stick in corner and pull a spring switch'</a>. This offers the best protection against accidental spinups, and is the default. </li>
<li><i>Arming method 2</i>: pull spring switch for a couple of seconds to arm, and similar to disarm. Secure enough, and easy enough to do whilst flying.</li>
<li><i>Arming method 3</i>: uses a spare 2-position switch. Down to arm, up to disarm. This method is the quickest, and provides tactile indication of arming state. The switch is 'smart', in the sense that the motor is disarmed at intial switch-on regardless of the actual switch position. This means there is no need to set up switch checks (which I find terminally annoying!). My thanks to 'Jesper' on RC groups for the safe switch logic.</li>
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The active method may be changed by editing a couple of logical switches. The scheme is documented in the Settings Reference, and users with a good knowledge of OpenTx can add their own arming and disarming methods.<br />
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(To help with programming of the 39 logical switches, I used a <a href="http://rc-soar.com/opentx/lsdesigner/lsdesigner.htm">VBA-driven spreadsheet</a> which offers smart insert/move/delete of logical switch definitions - this allowed the switches to be organised in logical groups, making it much easier to identify bugs before data entry in Companion.)<br />
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<h4>
Other improvements</h4>
As with previous versions, the motor can only start from idle, for obvious safety reasons. There's now a warning if you attempt to arm the motor when the lever's not in the idle position.<br />
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The voice alerts sound more natural, as I've switched from AT&T Text to Speech to <a href="https://github.com/CaffeineAU/TTSAutomate">TTS Automate</a> for creating the tracks. Leading and trailing silences are trimmed using <a href="https://www.audacityteam.org/">Audacity</a>.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioM8ajAqFEjMrDRRvEN0f-7S5PxiYZqTGzGYa-GBZA7ntki7ltPNLNbZomupldnHQd1VSyuG7mPEe0JkyTW0ASCFN6OMEJhpMsoic8H1gqfoNRnAeYIBpdazIXE-jqcuySt8FPzFBvTx9y/s1600/IMGP6581-EsoarPlus-2-Edit-Edit-Edit_Blog.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="489" data-original-width="560" height="348" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioM8ajAqFEjMrDRRvEN0f-7S5PxiYZqTGzGYa-GBZA7ntki7ltPNLNbZomupldnHQd1VSyuG7mPEe0JkyTW0ASCFN6OMEJhpMsoic8H1gqfoNRnAeYIBpdazIXE-jqcuySt8FPzFBvTx9y/s400/IMGP6581-EsoarPlus-2-Edit-Edit-Edit_Blog.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">ESP v3 switch layout</td></tr>
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<h4>
Emulate a dedicated height limiter</h4>
Detailed documentation of the logical switches is included in the Settings Reference. For those with a good understanding of logical switches, it should be possible to emulate a dedicated hardware time/height limiter, using a FrSky vario telemetry sensor and an unused timer (clue: L18->FORCE_DISARM).<br />
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E-Soar Plus version 3.0 runs under OpenTx 2.2.1 and later (support for 2.1 has been dropped). Setup and adjustment is virtually identical to previous versions. More info and + download <a href="http://rc-soar.com/opentx/setups/esoarplus/index.htm">from here</a>.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com6